98 Conv. GT Supercharged Teksid Build

Hello! This is my first build thread so I apologize if this isn't what these threads are for!

I bought my '98 mustang GT convertible in 2011. Right off the bat, I replaced headlights, redid the suspension with H&R SS springs and tokico shocks/struts and poly bushings. Then, I did the typical tune/cold air intake, and was disappointed in the lack of improvement in the power department.

In order to make some better power, I completed a full PI swap on her, with Comp Stage II cams:


Sorry for the poor quality! From now on I'll try to document everything better. Got the car dyno tuned later. Still was rather disappointed in the ~250 rwhp she put down after all that work.

This summer, I've embarked on a project to build a lowish compression motor that I can put some substantial boost into. I knew I wanted a teksid block; light and strong. After a couple weeks of waiting I found a Mk VIII in a junkyard with the engine ready to be pulled:

Dropped the engine through the bottom with just some sockets and wrenches, a jack, and a hacksaw (scored the whole short block for a cool $100 plus the cost of 3 Gatorades, screw the 115 degree heat):

Then, dismantled and took to the machine shop:

It was checked, no cracks, but is being bored .020 over for insurance.

I ordered the rotating assembly (MMR's 900SE rotating assembly, 9.0:1) two weeks ago, and it shipped, should be here Monday! Got these goodies today (way too expensive for what the darned things are it seems):

Oh and in the mean time I finished my budget cobra brake kit! They barely fit behind the split spokes. These brakes are amazing! Such better pedal feel with the SS lines as well:

I'll upload when the engine gets ready for the next step!

Things I need to figure out:
1) What kind of LSD/axles do I need to reliably produce ~500 whp

• I was thinking of going with the FRPP 31 spline traction lock with the Mosler 31 spline axles and FRPP 3.73s or 4.10s. I have no clue what kind of beating these guys can take however.

2) The most budget efficient way to get a transmission that can hold the power

• The T-45 source seems like a good place, but it makes me nervous how far away they are. Also, I would like to avoid any core charge

3) The most budget efficient way to get a twin-screw supercharger

• Kenne Bell intercooled 2.1 kit looks to me to be the best option at the moment. But $4999 is really pushing it

4) What clutch + flywheel will work best and maintain the most streetable, not-rock-hard pedal

 

Thank you!

Gah I really don't like the boost curve of the centrifugal superchargers though... After getting bigger cams I understand why torque is so important. Low end power really makes a car feel faster. A Procharger or Vortech might be my only affordable options though

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah.. I've been fantasizing about the 2.1 KB blower for a long time; I think I'm going to pull the trigger sometime in the near future. The 14 psi kit should get me to 500 whp hopefully.

Also, I get my rotating assembly tomorrow, which should be great!

Now I just need to figure out how to get all the timing set up for 2V heads...

 

I need to figure out if there's any timing set that will just bolt up... from what I understand the 4V block has a bit of difference compared to the 2v timing stuff

 

Got all my goodies in today. Time to build an engine!

 

They were fast and helpful on the phone, and by far had the best price. They were cheaper by several hundred dollars when compared to buying individual pieces and compared to mod max.

Shipping was fast too, just standard ground. They balanced and shipped my stuff within 7 days.

 

Hmm ok so I will not need to modify the block in any way, the 2v timing set will fit?

Also, yep I'm having the machine shop drill the coolant passage.

 

If possible I don't want to drill out anything, in order to save structural integrity of the guides! So if I get just the dowels from an aluminum Windsor 2V and a new timing set for a regular 2V gt I should be good?

 

Got to see my block yesterday after the hot tank. Aluminum looks great when clean!

I also decided to let the machine shop put together the short block instead of doing it myself... For only another $150 it'll bring some peace of mind. Especially with file fit rings, which I have no experience with.

 

Got my engine back from the machine shop!