98 Conv. GT Supercharged Teksid Build

[kenny150r]

Hello! This is my first build thread so I apologize if this isn't what these threads are for!

I bought my '98 mustang GT convertible in 2011. Right off the bat, I replaced headlights, redid the suspension with H&R SS springs and tokico shocks/struts and poly bushings. Then, I did the typical tune/cold air intake, and was disappointed in the lack of improvement in the power department.

In order to make some better power, I completed a full PI swap on her, with Comp Stage II cams:

Sorry for the poor quality! From now on I'll try to document everything better. Got the car dyno tuned later. Still was rather disappointed in the ~250 rwhp she put down after all that work.

This summer, I've embarked on a project to build a lowish compression motor that I can put some substantial boost into. I knew I wanted a teksid block; light and strong. After a couple weeks of waiting I found a Mk VIII in a junkyard with the engine ready to be pulled:

Dropped the engine through the bottom with just some sockets and wrenches, a jack, and a hacksaw (scored the whole short block for a cool $100 plus the cost of 3 Gatorades, screw the 115 degree heat):

Then, dismantled and took to the machine shop:

It was checked, no cracks, but is being bored .020 over for insurance.

I ordered the rotating assembly (MMR's 900SE rotating assembly, 9.0:1) two weeks ago, and it shipped, should be here Monday! Got these goodies today (way too expensive for what the darned things are it seems):

Oh and in the mean time I finished my budget cobra brake kit! They barely fit behind the split spokes. These brakes are amazing! Such better pedal feel with the SS lines as well:

I'll upload when the engine gets ready for the next step!

Things I need to figure out:
1) What kind of LSD/axles do I need to reliably produce ~500 whp

• I was thinking of going with the FRPP 31 spline traction lock with the Mosler 31 spline axles and FRPP 3.73s or 4.10s. I have no clue what kind of beating these guys can take however.

2) The most budget efficient way to get a transmission that can hold the power

• The T-45 source seems like a good place, but it makes me nervous how far away they are. Also, I would like to avoid any core charge

3) The most budget efficient way to get a twin-screw supercharger

• Kenne Bell intercooled 2.1 kit looks to me to be the best option at the moment. But $4999 is really pushing it

4) What clutch + flywheel will work best and maintain the most streetable, not-rock-hard pedal

 

[blackdemon007]

Nice work so far.

Not sure on the capability of the LSD but the 31 spline axles and gears will be good to go.
No experience with T45Source but have heard good things.
Supercharger options are limited by head choice. Most people will tell you to just go with a centrifugal super and be done with it.

 

[kenny150r]

Thank you!

Gah I really don't like the boost curve of the centrifugal superchargers though... After getting bigger cams I understand why torque is so important. Low end power really makes a car feel faster. A Procharger or Vortech might be my only affordable options though

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[DropTopPony]

I like where this is going.

Unfortunately we are limited on our PD Blower choices and $5k is the starting point with the KB but you get a really nice ic'd kit for the money.

You could try to find a used SVO/FRPP or Saleen Blower but then getting to 500rwhp would be a tough thing.

 

[kenny150r]

I like where this is going.

Unfortunately we are limited on our PD Blower choices and $5k is the starting point with the KB but you get a really nice ic'd kit for the money.

You could try to find a used SVO/FRPP or Saleen Blower but then getting to 500rwhp would be a tough thing.

Yeah.. I've been fantasizing about the 2.1 KB blower for a long time; I think I'm going to pull the trigger sometime in the near future. The 14 psi kit should get me to 500 whp hopefully.

Also, I get my rotating assembly tomorrow, which should be great!

Now I just need to figure out how to get all the timing set up for 2V heads...

 

[lwarrior1016]

Now I just need to figure out how to get all the timing set up for 2V heads...

Great project man! Im excited to see where this goes. As far as timing, what are you trying to figure out?

 

[kenny150r]

Great project man! Im excited to see where this goes. As far as timing, what are you trying to figure out?

I need to figure out if there's any timing set that will just bolt up... from what I understand the 4V block has a bit of difference compared to the 2v timing stuff

 

[kenny150r]

Got all my goodies in today. Time to build an engine!

 

[dirtyred11]

Nice, I would love to forge out my 2v or go 4v. I noticed your pistons say MMR.... How was your experience buying from them and the price of the rotating assembly???

 

[96blak54]

Mmmm goodies! I bet it feels great! Keep the build coming

 

[lwarrior1016]

I need to figure out if there's any timing set that will just bolt up... from what I understand the 4V block has a bit of difference compared to the 2v timing stuff

The timing components are going to be the same. The difference comes in to how the straight guides attach to the block. The teksid, if I remember correctly, has a bolt/dowel piece for the guide. You engine was complete when you got it so that shouldn't be an issue. Just get a timing kit for the 2v and bolt it on.

And I forgot to ask, did you drill the steam port in your block?

 

[kenny150r]

Nice, I would love to forge out my 2v or go 4v. I noticed your pistons say MMR.... How was your experience buying from them and the price of the rotating assembly???

They were fast and helpful on the phone, and by far had the best price. They were cheaper by several hundred dollars when compared to buying individual pieces and compared to mod max.

Shipping was fast too, just standard ground. They balanced and shipped my stuff within 7 days.

 

[kenny150r]

The timing components are going to be the same. The difference comes in to how the straight guides attach to the block. The teksid, if I remember correctly, has a bolt/dowel piece for the guide. You engine was complete when you got it so that shouldn't be an issue. Just get a timing kit for the 2v and bolt it on.

And I forgot to ask, did you drill the steam port in your block?

Hmm ok so I will not need to modify the block in any way, the 2v timing set will fit?

Also, yep I'm having the machine shop drill the coolant passage.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Hmm ok so I will not need to modify the block in any way, the 2v timing set will fit?

Also, yep I'm having the machine shop drill the coolant passage.

There should be no modifications to the block for the timing set. You might have to drill the hole on the chain guide where the dowel goes through it because some of the 4v had bigger dowels (from what I understand). That's no problem at all though.

 

[DropTopPony]

Only thing you need is the screw in dowels from a 2V with an aluminum block, as in 02-04 2V Explorer.

All other 2V timing components work with the Teksid. You can probably still get them through Ford parts counter.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Only thing you need is the screw in dowels from a 2V with an aluminum block, as in 02-04 2V Explorer.

All other 2V timing components work with the Teksid. You can probably still get them through Ford parts counter.

If he drills out the holes in the guide, he can use the 4v dowels right?

 

[kenny150r]

If he drills out the holes in the guide, he can use the 4v dowels right?

If possible I don't want to drill out anything, in order to save structural integrity of the guides! So if I get just the dowels from an aluminum Windsor 2V and a new timing set for a regular 2V gt I should be good?

 

[kenny150r]

Got to see my block yesterday after the hot tank. Aluminum looks great when clean!

I also decided to let the machine shop put together the short block instead of doing it myself... For only another $150 it'll bring some peace of mind. Especially with file fit rings, which I have no experience with.

 

[lwarrior1016]

If possible I don't want to drill out anything, in order to save structural integrity of the guides! So if I get just the dowels from an aluminum Windsor 2V and a new timing set for a regular 2V gt I should be good?

If you use the guides with the steel back then drilling them will not be a problem. However, if you really just do not want to do that, then you should be able to use the aluminum 2v dowels and a 2v timing set.

 

[kenny150r]

Got my engine back from the machine shop!