98 GT Auto build..

glittle75

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
231
Reaction score
36
Hello fellow stangers!

Ok, First off. I am a U.S. Marine stationed in Okinawa, Japan. While I was here, I have continually sent money home towards the Purchase of my personal dream car. A White 98 GT. My Family found one in good shape, with 103k on the Odo, and Automatic. I had a '93 Hatchback in High School with all the "coin" high school bolt ons. This is my fist Modular. I continue to save money now for Performance Upgrades. But I wanted to know if anyone has a link to a '98 Automatic GT build-up that equates out to around ~450 RWHP.

This car will still more than likely take me to and from base everyday, so i really don't want it to be to extreme. But at the same time, I don't want to be laughed out of parking lots on Saturday Night, if you know what I mean.

Guess I am looking for a "Respectable, Streetable car." Any links and/or old forum posts will be helpfull. I searched but only came up with the one-and-twos projects, not an entire build like I am looking for.

Thanks in advance, and sorry so wordy :)
 

jpajkos

Active Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2006
Messages
622
Reaction score
1
Welcome to the site first and foremost. Im glad to see your doing ok out there in Japan. Theres alot of great guys on this site. If your looking into a 450 horsepower street driver I would defiantly recommend doing the P.I. swap with some upgraded heads, intake and cams. I would defiantly have them ported and polished. When you do you swap make sure you get forged internals. 2v's for those numbers you want 90% of the time need a blower. I recommend a Kennebell blower and if you have some extra cash save up to have the motor stroked out. I know its alot but its something you'll defiantly have to do to squeeze those numbers out of a 2v. Good luck and stay safe
 
OP
OP
glittle75

glittle75

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
231
Reaction score
36
OK, thanks Jpajkos.

Two things, I have never boosted a car myself, and looking at the KB site, I am wondering, since I will be upgrading to the PI heads/Intake/Cams, will I want a blower that is listed for a '99 and up model? Since those were PI, or would I still be looking at the '96-'98 model blowers.

Just wondering which I would need to order and prepare for. '99 and up PT# - TS1000-99-INT, and '96-'98 part # is TS1000-96-INT.

Secondly. With "Forged Internals" Are you talking Crank, Rods, Pistons only? Or more? Sorry for the "new guy" questions, but this will be my first project, and I want to do it right.

Thanks in advance :)
 

Dalamar

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
13,863
Reaction score
124
Location
SLC, UT
Welcome to the site.

Sounds like you've done some research on the PI headswap. that's the place to start.
Here's a thread with alot of helpfull info I compiled as I looked into the headswap and mustang upgrades in general.
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1292.0
as well as others on here as you know.

Feel free to ask questions as they come up.

Here's an overview of your car's weakpoints as you're looking at upgrading the power.
Your stock engine can handle "around' 400 HP
any detonation at this power level and the rods will most likely break. so a Good tune is very very important.
but there are plenty of guys running that power level, so dont get too scared.

If you want more than 400 you should look at a forged rotating assembly as Jpajkos stated.

The mustang's weaknesses are as follows.
rods/pistons - good to low 400 neighborhood..
Automatic - good to around 450 - obviously effected by your driving style.
Axles - 450-500 they could break on hard launches.

I also suggest you upgrade the suspension to reduse chasssis flex and axle deflection to help put the extra power to the ground.
There's multiple options on suspension, ask away if you have questions.

Upgrading the R-470 (AOD-E) you'll want to forge up certain parts of it that could break, and go with a better/higher staul convertor.
Lentec has good info on what is needed there. I had a local transmission shop price out upgrading to equivelant parts and it was alot less than the lentec price, but they do build a very strong auto. I'd stay away from shift kits, they usually add more heat and line pressure spikes. a better transmission cooler would be a good investment also.

Good luck over in Japan, and on your future car mods.
 

DropTopPony

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
15,376
Reaction score
203
Location
South Jersey
My suggestion is to buy a complete longblock...(forged complete shortblock and pi heads) from a good builder. Where do you live? This way we can find you a good builder close to home. Then add a KB blower on top of that and you will have a beast! Since you are a mod motor noob having a shop do your work will save you alot of aggrevation in the long run.
All that new power will require suspension and transmission upgrades. A Maximum Motorsports suspension/brake package should make you smile and a Jmod/shift kit and 3200 stall TQ Converter will help...upgraded rear will also need to be done, 31 spline axles, beefier rear diff and gears.
 
OP
OP
glittle75

glittle75

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
231
Reaction score
36
http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/online/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=1113

Found this kit from Sean Hyland. Looks solid enough. Could I just sit PI heads, Intake, and Cams on this and have a good result and a strong motor?

Also I did like what I saw over at kenne bell's site. That 2.1L looks mean, would this kit be able to handle it without problem. I would like to keep the automatic, but of coarse with 103k on it, it will need some attention. Also allready thought about the Suspension/axles. Have that in mind as well.

This will be a long project and I am really looking forward to it. And i live in Greenville, North Carolina. I know a shop there that I can trust to do good work, but they are just a local type shop. If you guys know of anyone else around the area (Within 100 miles) please drop names and I will be sure to look them up. I'm trying to have a good idea of what is going to be involved with this project before I start, so i'm not going in blind. And being over here, I can order thing and have them sent back home.

Thanks for the help and replies guys :)
 

DropTopPony

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Jan 12, 2006
Messages
15,376
Reaction score
203
Location
South Jersey
You don't want to deal with Sean Hyland...he knows his stuff but his new staff doesn't and the customer service blows! And thats the last thing you need is aggrevation while your overseas...

Now his old staff is the shit! They opened up their own shop and its called www.vtengines.com and they to me are the best in the modular world. I have their heads/cams/ and shortblock and love them!
 

Dalamar

Post Whore
SN95 Supporter
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
13,863
Reaction score
124
Location
SLC, UT
DropTopPony said:
You don't want to deal with Sean Hyland...he knows his stuff but his new staff doesn't and the customer service blows! And thats the last thing you need is aggrevation while your overseas...

Now his old staff is the shit! They opened up their own shop and its called www.vtengines.com and they to me are the best in the modular world. I have their heads/cams/ and shortblock and love them!

I've heard alot of the same about Sean Hyland, they're stuff has problems and their support sucks ass.
In fact SCV in Scottsdale has rebuilt a bunch of they're "bulletproof" longblocks...

VT does kick ass! Interesting that they came from SHM.
 

SMOKE

Active Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
675
Reaction score
0
Ditto to everything said.

DropTopPony said:
My suggestion is to buy a complete longblock...(forged complete shortblock and pi heads) from a good builder. Where do you live? This way we can find you a good builder close to home. Then add a KB blower on top of that and you will have a beast! Since you are a mod motor noob having a shop do your work will save you alot of aggrevation in the long run.
All that new power will require suspension and transmission upgrades. A Maximum Motorsports suspension/brake package should make you smile and a Jmod/shift kit and 3200 stall TQ Converter will help...upgraded rear will also need to be done, 31 spline axles, beefier rear diff and gears.
DropTopPony said:
You don't want to deal with Sean Hyland...he knows his stuff but his new staff doesn't and the customer service blows! And thats the last thing you need is aggrevation while your overseas...

Now his old staff is the shit! They opened up their own shop and its called www.vtengines.com and they to me are the best in the modular world. I have their heads/cams/ and shortblock and love them!
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
77,438
Messages
1,502,141
Members
14,918
Latest member
Diabolic2010
Top