98 GT Clutch wont disengage, new issue

shutter · Mar 7, 2023

I've looked across the forum for a while now and can't find anything quite like what I'm dealing with, so I decided to just start my own thread.

The old clutch for my car was toast so when I replaced it I also replaced a lot of other parts and now the car will only go into gear with extreme force and only once it starts to roll. When I try to shift into first with the e brake down it will roll a little and slowly get faster and faster until it will finally go into first, and every other gear is also difficult to shift into, except reverse which only grinds. Initially, the car would not shift into any gear no matter what but after I installed the flywheel alignment dowels it now at least moves. I have tried adjusting the clutch cable but to no effect, and no matter how tight or loose the cable is the clutch never fully disengages, and I can't feel a biting point as my pedal goes down. It will also shift perfectly fine while the car is off and if I start it in gear it lurches. Additionally, I have tried adjusting the cable many different ways from extremely tight to extremely loose in around 20 or so different configurations and yet nothing changes except for my pedal's free play. Any ideas on what could be causing this and how I can get my clutch to disengage?

Clutch Fork Travel Video

Part List:
T-45 Transmission
McLeod Super Street Pro Organic/Ceramic Clutch Kit; 10-Spline
McLeod Aluminum Flywheel; 6 Bolt
Ford Clutch Fork Pivot Stud for T5, T45 or TR3650 Transmissions
McLeod Clutch Fork (94-04 Mustang)
Ford Performance Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kit (96-04 V8 Mustang)
Steeda Quadrant
Ford Performance High Load Roller Pilot Bearing
Ford Performance Performance Throwout Bearing
Pro 5.0 Short Shifter
Valvoline Max-Life Mercon LV/V ATF

weendoggy · Mar 7, 2023

This sounds like a sticking disc for sure. I'm asking if the disc may have been put in backwards. Not insinuating you did, just asking. Also, is the fork clip behind the ball. Another thing to check is the ball to flywheel distance. All of this should've been checked prior to installation.

Because the transmission won't shift when depressing the pedal tells you it's not releasing, and trying to shift into gear when running and not being able to is causing the same. The other thing that comes to mind is if the flywheel was new and the protective coating wasn't cleaned off. All or some of these can cause your issues.

shutter · Mar 7, 2023

I put in the clutch disc properly, to my knowledge, with the raised side facing the transmission and the flat side to the flywheel. As far as the fork clip, it's properly seated behind the pivot stud ball. I also cleaned both the clutch face and flywheel with brake cleaner prior to installation. The only one I'm not sure about is flywheel distance. I've heard the clutch fork is meant to be in between the center and rear wall of the clutch fork opening when the TOB is touching the pressure plate. Is that true?

and thanks for responding.

weendoggy · Mar 8, 2023

Sounds like you have everything checked. Without knowing exactly, hard to tell what is wrong, although the non-release is the clue. Usually the ball to flywheel plate mounting surface (edge of block) is about 3.65". You can meausre from trans block/mounting to ball top and add thickenss of plate. Normal flywheel thickness is .910" to .960", which you can measure through a bolt hole from mounting surface to disc surface. Other than that it's going to be a troubleshooting issue. If all was good prior and now problems, you have to retrace steps to see what's causing it. It really sounds like you don't have enough travel. Here's a pic of the fork placement, which I believe you have correct.

shutter · Mar 8, 2023

Thinking back on it now, when I installed my pivot stud the one I took off had a washer but the new one didn’t so I never reinstalled it. Do you think that could cause the issue?

weendoggy · Mar 8, 2023

If the pivot stud is shorter than what's needed, you won't get full travel. If you still have your old one, measure it and compare. Hate to say it, but it might be your problem. Worst part is doing it over, but better to check and know what went wrong. Given everything else you did sounds right, it's going to be a simple fix other than removing it again. Also, the bearing does ride on the cover fingers (no freeplay).

shutter · Apr 7, 2023

Alright, I wanted to continue this thread with what I've figured out so far after dropping the transmission six times. The main issue that I found was that my TOB and clutch fork were not compatible at all. The TOB was too small to rest evenly on the fork springs and resulting in uneven pressure on my pressure plate. Since then, I've upgraded to a Ford Performance clutch fork and everything fits as it should, although the problem hasn't been resolved. What I'm leaning toward now is that I still have a clutch fork geometry issue. I've tried many variations of loosening and tightening my cable but to no avail. As for the pivot stud, I currently have two 3/8 shims underneath my pivot stud so my clutch fork has plenty of room to travel, but I'm unsure if it's possible to have "too much" travel. My previous clutch only had one shim on it and it's the exact same height as my current one. I tried one shim back when I had the incorrect shift fork installed and nothing changed. Overall, I just wanted to ask if I should try it with one shim again with my new clutch fork or if I potentially have another problem before I drop the trans again.

I also attached a videos of my current clutch fork travel.
(I installed a firewall adjuster as well I'm hopes of possibly getting more possible adjustment and my cable is on the longer hook of my quadrant.)

shutter · Apr 7, 2023

forgot to attach video, here it is
sorry about the quality

cobrajeff96 · Apr 8, 2023

The problem is that the clutch fork is too far back in its starting position. It needs to start from the 'middle of the window' in the bellhousing.

You want to make sure that the teardrop side of the bearing faces away from the input shaft sleeve of the transmission, or in other words that the pointy side of the bearing is facing towards the window of the bellhousing. And you must apply light films of high temp grease on the following surfaces if your intent is to get as much mileage as possible out of this work:

- the splines of the input shaft, mainly the tip where the mating splines of the clutch discs will contact it
- face of the bearing that contacts the pressure plate
- input shaft sleeve
- back sides of the fork tangs where the bearing slides onto the fork
- the pivot stud
- the end of the fork where the cable ball rests

(bear in mind these are light films, the grease should only stand on a part no more than half a millimeter high)

shutter · Apr 8, 2023

Yeah, that's what I figured. Thanks for the detailed response. I greased everything initially with all-purpose grease so I'm good on that front, and I suppose all I have to do now is to just take off a shim so my fork isn't so far back. Thanks again,

cobrajeff96 · Apr 8, 2023

Not sure what you mean by shims (under the pivot ball hex?). You want to extend the pivot ball further toward the engine, just to be clear. If the stocker runs out of length because not enough thread, I used to get the McLeod adjustable pivot ball back when my setup was a cable operated thingy.

shutter · Apr 9, 2023

Yeah by shims I just meant washers underneath the pivot stud. I ended up taking both out and my fork position looks good now. It's too late at night to start my car but ill respond in the morning on whether it worked or not.

Before

After

cobrajeff96 · Apr 9, 2023

It's a good starting point, but really you want the bearing face not only to just be contacting the pressure plate but you actually want about a 5 lb load on it. Position the fork/bearing face up against the pressure plate and that's going to be your starting point. Middle of the window is just the concept.

By the time you do first time adjustments of the cable tension at the firewall, there should be a nice amount of pressure on the PP. Bottom line: get tension on the cable to where it touches the PP fingers and compresses them in like maybe a millimeter or two... and there's your starting point.

Final test: With engine idling and car standing still, foot all the way into the clutch pedal, every gear needs to be engaged without excess force and the wheels should not move.

shutter · Apr 14, 2023

It didn't work, unfortunately. I'm looking at buying a new transmission now but I don't think it's what's causing my problem. My current one has quite a bit of play in the input shaft and does not fully shift into 5th and sometimes reverse even with the car off. I called a local shop to see what it would cost for them to take a look at it and its just shy of $700, so I feel like it makes more sense to just buy a new trans that's in better shape and try re-torquing my pressure plate bolts. thoughts?

bottom line I just really don't want to pay almost $700 for just an inspection, and I was wondering if my shaft play could potentially cause the problem, especially since not having 5th is going to be a problem even if I can get it to move.
I didn't really notice it before because when I bought the car the clutch was absolutely obliterated so it slipped so bad it couldn't even get up to 5th gear.

cobrajeff96 · Apr 15, 2023

Well, you're diagnosing from a shady starting point unfortunately. You have no stable reference to go by because it seems you inherited the car with the clutch package in bad shape. There needs to be some end play on the input, but not excessive. Hell, you could post a video on it and people here can tell you if it's pass/fail.

Don't jump guns just yet, it may all be fine and you just have to get it adjusted for it to at least work properly. If the trans is hurt then your options are of course limited, but a little bit of homework up front might be the thing that saves you a thousand or more dollars in the end.

weendoggy · Apr 15, 2023

I agree with CJ96. Getting a problematic issue up front isn't helping you, but before spending any $$ I'd really get back to basics to figure out what is and isn't working. Pony'ing up $$$ for a new trans and stabing that in hoping for the best and then being shocked because the problem is still there won't help.

All the Temec style transmissions I've worked on or owned, when it won't shift in from neutral to any gear at idle was related to the clutch release/non-release. Also, they are damned hard to shift without a clutch when rolling, imo.

RAU03MACH · Apr 15, 2023

Can the cable be taken off and move the fork back and forth with a prybar or a wrench on it

Don't want to jinx anyone but the clutch may be backwards
You would need to take it apart and find out