the5.ohh
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You gotta be gangster and leave that shit off. I refuse to run a front plate
9838stang's Money Pit Pony
- Thread starter 9838stang
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You gotta be gangster and leave that shit off. I refuse to run a front plate
Firefighter181
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9838stang
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I made more progress on the fog lights.
I received them a couple of days ago and started to modify to cobra brackets.
First off I had to drill out the factory screw hole location on the arms that hold the cobra fog light to be able to hold the Dodge Dakota fog light. I used a 3/8 drill bit. Looking back after I completed to project, wished I used a bit smaller.
Next was to bend the arms to be able to craddle to new fog light. The Dakota fogs were a little narrow compared to stock
Once I got the shape of the arms where I wanted them, I test fitted the fog lights into their new home. Well I say that the arms at end, were digging into the fog lights. So I had to grind the ends down a bunch to be able to get enough movement for the light to go up and down.
Now as you can see here by the picture the adjustment screws aren't anywhere near the stock adjustment tab on the fog light, so a new one had to be created
I didn't get any pictures of the tabs I made I'll have to crawl back under to get them when I pull the lights back off to paint the brackets.
I got a lot of my stuff from this site
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/how-to-dodge-dakota-fogs-on-a-sn95-cobra.652612/
And I used 00 dodge Dakota fog lights.
I received them a couple of days ago and started to modify to cobra brackets.
First off I had to drill out the factory screw hole location on the arms that hold the cobra fog light to be able to hold the Dodge Dakota fog light. I used a 3/8 drill bit. Looking back after I completed to project, wished I used a bit smaller.
Next was to bend the arms to be able to craddle to new fog light. The Dakota fogs were a little narrow compared to stock
Once I got the shape of the arms where I wanted them, I test fitted the fog lights into their new home. Well I say that the arms at end, were digging into the fog lights. So I had to grind the ends down a bunch to be able to get enough movement for the light to go up and down.
Now as you can see here by the picture the adjustment screws aren't anywhere near the stock adjustment tab on the fog light, so a new one had to be created
I didn't get any pictures of the tabs I made I'll have to crawl back under to get them when I pull the lights back off to paint the brackets.
I got a lot of my stuff from this site
https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/how-to-dodge-dakota-fogs-on-a-sn95-cobra.652612/
And I used 00 dodge Dakota fog lights.
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9838stang
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Burninriverdiver
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Looking good! I wish my cobra bumper came with mint condition paint, great work man
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9838stang
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I hate the way my aluminum brackets came out. Someone sent my this picture after they did their swap and it made so much more sense.
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9838stang
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Well yesterday it was a little warmer outside, but i couldnt drive the mustang, well cant drive it for a while now since we had gotten snow and salt. and looks like freezing rain the other day. So since it is warm out thought i would get the UPR k member swap and header swap started.
I had the sway bar disconnected and bump steer kit disconnected. I tried pounding the ball jpoints out but to no prevail. gunna borrow a ball joint separator from work tomorrow. and pull the a arms off and have new bushing pressed in. Also gunna take the alternator out and get a pair of hardened bolts to let the motor hang from the engine brace.
also found out that i didnt get a pair of bolts and hardware for the k member. So i had to get a pair of them from work.
Hardened 8.8 M12 x1.75 at 130mm length bolt. i would maybe go a bit long bit these will work just find.
I had the sway bar disconnected and bump steer kit disconnected. I tried pounding the ball jpoints out but to no prevail. gunna borrow a ball joint separator from work tomorrow. and pull the a arms off and have new bushing pressed in. Also gunna take the alternator out and get a pair of hardened bolts to let the motor hang from the engine brace.
also found out that i didnt get a pair of bolts and hardware for the k member. So i had to get a pair of them from work.
Hardened 8.8 M12 x1.75 at 130mm length bolt. i would maybe go a bit long bit these will work just find.
Last edited:
You dont need the hardened bolts to hang form, just make sure its tightened all the way down on the chain. I pull my engines and transmissions together with one alternator bolt and one transmission housing bolt. Works just fine.
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9838stang
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I wasnt sure if it could. But the engine brace I have just had two hooks. I might have to get chain idk. Was gunna tray to get the hooks to hang by both alternator bolts. We will see later tonight
You can do that too, just tightn the bolt all the way down on the hook. The less the bolt is sticking out, the stronger it is. Youll be ok to just support it there.
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9838stang
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Alright everyone! Time for an update! But first, a tiny bit of carnage lol. I tried smashing the back of the spindles to pop the ball joints out, but they just wouldnt budge. So I bought a "press" to pop the ball joints out.
The fork goes under the spindle, around the ball joint and the "hook" or clamp goes on top of the ball joint stud. Well, it wouldnt open far enough so i had to shave the back of the tool to allow it to open more
to much pressure
But i went and rented one from autozone and tada!!
Finally had a friend stop by and lend a hand in ripping the old k member out, and luck for me he brought his electric impact gun. K member came out pretty smoothly.
But this came up short lol. We finally removed the old exhaust out and didnt break any of the bolts which was awesome! But the manifold to midpipe bolts were a pain in the aarse. and the driverside 02 sensors broke so i had to buy two new sensors. We pretty much have the passenger side long tube in the car, but the driver side was proving to be a pain. the oil dipstick wouldnt come out... easy. finally got it out with the motor mount removed. the oil tube came out. and them had to install the exhaust studs.
Well the 3rd cylinder on the driver side.... the pipe for that cylinder i guess is known problem with manifold studs. so i am having my buddy trim the stud a bit and should have it tomorrow.
As you can see on the middle pipe it was digging into the header and prevented the header from sitting flush. Well this haulted the whole day. couldnt install the k member, couldnt install motor mounts and couldnt install the oil dip stick tube.
So tomorrow should have the bolts broken loose from the stock k member, and swap the control arms over, should have the header inplace, and k member installed. then the small tiny stuff after that.
yay mustang stuff
The fork goes under the spindle, around the ball joint and the "hook" or clamp goes on top of the ball joint stud. Well, it wouldnt open far enough so i had to shave the back of the tool to allow it to open more
to much pressure
But i went and rented one from autozone and tada!!
Finally had a friend stop by and lend a hand in ripping the old k member out, and luck for me he brought his electric impact gun. K member came out pretty smoothly.
But this came up short lol. We finally removed the old exhaust out and didnt break any of the bolts which was awesome! But the manifold to midpipe bolts were a pain in the aarse. and the driverside 02 sensors broke so i had to buy two new sensors. We pretty much have the passenger side long tube in the car, but the driver side was proving to be a pain. the oil dipstick wouldnt come out... easy. finally got it out with the motor mount removed. the oil tube came out. and them had to install the exhaust studs.
Well the 3rd cylinder on the driver side.... the pipe for that cylinder i guess is known problem with manifold studs. so i am having my buddy trim the stud a bit and should have it tomorrow.
As you can see on the middle pipe it was digging into the header and prevented the header from sitting flush. Well this haulted the whole day. couldnt install the k member, couldnt install motor mounts and couldnt install the oil dip stick tube.
So tomorrow should have the bolts broken loose from the stock k member, and swap the control arms over, should have the header inplace, and k member installed. then the small tiny stuff after that.
yay mustang stuff
DKblue98GT
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Wow that looks familiar. I just pulled my K out and replaced the oil pan gasket on Sunday. I got it back together the same day. I wish I had a set of headers to install while I had it out but didn't plan that far ahead.
I would recommend using anti seize on the bolts for the next time you have to go in. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
I would recommend using anti seize on the bolts for the next time you have to go in. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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9838stang
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Yay k member is in!!!
Both headers done too.
All that's left:
O2 extensions, steering rack install, steering shaft, mid pipe, tighten O2 sensors, re route front brake lines on passenger side, install a arms, clutch cable and tension it, ground wire, alignment and then install new tune. And re install cold air intake.
Both headers done too.
All that's left:
O2 extensions, steering rack install, steering shaft, mid pipe, tighten O2 sensors, re route front brake lines on passenger side, install a arms, clutch cable and tension it, ground wire, alignment and then install new tune. And re install cold air intake.
You still have the magnaflow catback, and youll have an o/r midpipe right?
Make sure you get an exhaust video after all this is done.
Make sure you get an exhaust video after all this is done.
RedTwilight
Active Member
How the heck did you remove the spindle nut without pulling the calipers or struts from the spindle?
I just did the ball joints on my Cobra the other week and I'm going to be swapping the K out in my notch this weekend. In both instances I don't see how I could access to the spindle nut without pulling something off or using an open end wrench.
I just did the ball joints on my Cobra the other week and I'm going to be swapping the K out in my notch this weekend. In both instances I don't see how I could access to the spindle nut without pulling something off or using an open end wrench.
Tally_4.6
Well-Known Member
Some struts run long, some run short. Depending on where the sleeve for the spindle is you might get lucky and not have to loosen the struts to get to the balljoint nut.
Firefighter181
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9838stang
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Well, the only thing left, install control arm bushings should be here Tuesday, clutch fork cover, play with brake lines, and install control arms and alignment.
Did come into a small hiccup, O2 extensions and O2 sensors... Hmmm that is how lmr one are, AM, and cj pony... So wtf lol I just shaved the little tabs off and plugged them in
https://youtu.be/Uczhs0b1WWc
https://youtu.be/cEdVY4dRM00
Did come into a small hiccup, O2 extensions and O2 sensors... Hmmm that is how lmr one are, AM, and cj pony... So wtf lol I just shaved the little tabs off and plugged them in
https://youtu.be/Uczhs0b1WWc
https://youtu.be/cEdVY4dRM00
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9838stang
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Found out my catted mid pipe was tapping the trans crossember. So I thought I'd massage it a little on the top. Well I took it to far and destroyed the internals. So now I'm running a catless midpipe lol.
https://youtu.be/geRFdlI0b0Q
Well car is buttoned up and back on the ground for now. Have to pull the rear wheels off to get the drag wheels mounted.
https://youtu.be/geRFdlI0b0Q
Well car is buttoned up and back on the ground for now. Have to pull the rear wheels off to get the drag wheels mounted.
