A few issues to work through.

MechaZao

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Hey all.

I drive a 1996 3.8 Mustang. I've got another post about some ECT issues that I'm working out but there's a few more things I've observed and wanted to pick y'alls brains about.

Firstly: a starting and stumbling issue.
When the motor is cold, it starts right up. for that driving session, I can drive it at least 2 hours on the highway with not a single issue (haven't tried farther). Once I stop and turn it off, and go eat or something, letting it sit for a while (20 mins to an hour or two), it will be hard to start when I get back in. the starter isn't dragging or anything, it just cranks for several seconds before it stumbles a bit and fires up, which is a lot different than the cold start feeling.

after this hard start, I sometimes (probably 50/50 chance, depending how long I'd been driving the first time) get what feels like power or fuel cutting out when accelerating and cruising. the RPMs dont drop at all, and from what i can tell on my OBD scanner app the TPS signal isn't changing when it happens - its just like the car suddenly was starved for something and recovered. its most aggressive at higher speeds, but seems to happen throughout the RPM range especially around 1800-2200. cruising on a flat highway, its veeeeeeeeeeeeery slight but as soon as i try to accelerate or have a need to go up an incline or overpass, it will stumble/jerk. It does not stall ever, and no stumbling or changes are noted at idle

this issue persists for most of the "second" drive, and doesn't happen at all if the car sat long enough to be "cold" again.
after about 45 mins to an hour of driving though the issue fades away on its own and it doesn't buck/jerk anymore.

plugs, wires, and coil pack are all new. the fuel pump was also changed recently, BUT I will admit that it is not the correct pump for my model year - I was sent one for a 4 cylinder fox body and I had no choice but to install it as is because I couldn't keep the car disassembled any longer (was borrowing a driveway). it seemed to work okay.

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Secondly: I've got a hearing problem and wear hearing aids, which is a pain in the ass when it comes to pinpointing and diagnosing strange sounds in cars. my car is catless, and has an H pipe with flowmaster dual exhaust on it - this wasn't installed by me, but the previous owner. I do have a gnarly exhaust leak I believe at the passenger manifold, which causes a lean condition sometimes - haven't fixed that yet.

For quite a while, couldn't say how long, I've had all manner of rattles and noises inside the cabin with the car idling. I've always ignored it and chalked it up to just an old car, but I'd like to get a second opinion. While sitting idle, I can hear the exhaust droning a bit and I recognize the exhaust note pretty clearly. however there is also some wild-ass rattling or grinding or crunching of some sort that I can't seem to narrow down or pinpoint, and I can't trust my ears well enough to know where its coming from. I recorded a short video - the car is idling, and thats obvious enough to me . partway through it i give it a little gas to differentiate the sound, and then i move the phone around to see if i can narrow down a location.I'm hearing like a.. lot of rattling or grinding or crunching or something and I don't know if its the exhaust or interior panels or even the fuel pump making hella noise.

not sure if I'm allowed to post links here but:

its much louder in the video overall than it is in person, guess the phone mic is sensitive.


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there are no trouble codes, aside from the bank 1 lean that comes and goes once in a while (not currently active). my CEL is visible in the video because for some reason the LED i put in there is always slightly on, very dimly. its very bright when properly active.

any insight or thoughts on these two (hopefully separate) issues would be much appreciated!
 
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cobrajeff96

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If you put a 4-cyl fuel pump, chances are it's of less flow rate than a v-8 pump. All fluids are more viscous when cold, and in a cold start the computer is dumping more fuel into the engine to begin with. When temps rise enough, the fuel temp will rise as well. I doubt it's rising enough to cause vapor lock, but the pump must be able to keep up with the demands of the entire fuel system. Also, just because an ignition component was changed doesn't always mean it went through QC testing - it could be a bad wire/plug/coil/etc. FWIW, always buy OEM equipment when it comes to ignition unless you got deep pockets and can get Holley or the like.
 

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