A thread for Tony

MustangChris

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Tony. You've started a couple of threads that have really taken off with your car problems.

I want to try and help consolidate all the information to help you out...

#1)
The smoke.

The smoke could be a number of things.
#1) condensation (no smell, quickly disappears, leaves puddles under the exhaust tips)
#2) burning fuel (smells like gas, is a darker [black] color, can come and go based on RPM, and how much throttle you're giving it.)
#3) buring oil (smells like "burning plastic", is a blue-ish color in the sun light, can either happen at idle, upon first start-up, or if there is a problem it can be constant.)
#4) burning coolant (can push water out of the exhaust of the car at all times if it is a major issue, has white smoke, would be constant smoking)

From your video it appears to be the following:
#1) condesnation - white-ish smoke, disappears rather quickly (oil-smoke can linger in the air for quite a while) and leaves puddles under the tips.
#4) burning coolant (pushes coolant out the exhaust, white-ish smoke, is pretty constant.)

Why its not:
#2) its white smoke, your car is mostly stock and is probably running just fine on the OEM tune. if it didnt have a distinct smell of gas, you can pretty much rule this out.

--KEEP IN MIND-- if you removed your cats on your exhaust, it can cause an un-burned gas smell, cause the car to run rich (causing the smell, as well as the smoke)

#3) it could be blue-ish smoke, but it disappears quickly and you didnt say it smelled "too funny" ... if it were burning oil you would have said "yea, it smells like my car is farting out dead G.I. Joy plastic parts." or something.

Back to what it probably could be:

#1) how to fix it:
drive the car around more. Condensation builds up in the heads, exhaust, and combustion chamber (just ask anyone who's rusted a piston to a cylinder wall. lol) It can also build up in your gas (unlikely based on how you only store the car for a short time -- not years.)

If you drive the car around for hours at a time, multiple times a week, and the smoke completely goes away - you're fine.

You need to heat the engine and exhaust up to the point where the condensation is simply irradicated. This may take a 20 minute drive, opposed to the 5 minute start up in the storage locker.

#4) how to fix it:
This would *most likey* be caused by a cracked intake manifold or manifold gasket. The coolant runs through these parts and if they are failing, the engine is sucking the coolant right into the combustion chamber. Cracked manifolds are *very* common on these 4.6 cars. Especially in the winter, as the hot coolant and engine compartment heats up the intake manifold and the cold air the engine is sucking in from the air-filter is cold.

The gaskets are thick, pressed, rubber. They are cheep and easy to replace.

Inspect the intake manifold visually to search for any cracks, leaks, or whistling sounds.

The first step is to actually diagnose the problem. We can all look at your video and go "oo. ahh!!" but you're the one whos going to have to get his hands dirty.

Option #1)
Remove the spark plugs. Inspect the plugs for damage, rich fuel mixture, and burning oil/coolant signs. The spark plug is a DIRECT diagnostic to the combustion chamber. It's like a little history book as to whats going on in there that simply needs opened and read. read that *****. read that ***** good.

Option #2)
If the plugs come out to show no signs of trouble, check your oil (drop the oil filter. This way you only drop ~1 qt of oil, since your car is in storage) if the oil taht comes out of the filter looks like chocolate milk, we've got problems. If its golden brown, you're golden (har har har) -- keep in mind how old the oil is. If you changed it last weekend, it could still be golden brown but the problem is still there. If its been in the car 8 weeks and its golden brown, then you're fine.

Things to look for:
Chocolate milk color. Black color (IE it looks like crude oil. lol.), glitter streaks in the oil, bubbly/frothy texture.

Option #3)
Inspect fluid levels. Is the oil low? is the coolant low? How often do you have to top them off? Some cars burn through 1qt of oil for every 1,000 miles. That adds up to 3 qts added per every oil change. (WOW!) If you're going through more oil than this, we've got problems.

Option #4)
Inspect the coolant. Open the pet-cock on the bottom of your radiator and snag 1/2 cup of coolant. Is it brown? is it green? what color did you originally put in the car? what color is the coolant in your over flow tank?

Things to look for:
Chocolate milk color. Bubbly/frothy texture.

Next, if all these test come back clean, is to test for the options that are the least likely to be the problem... #2 and #3:

First, we'll check the rings (#3)
go to harbor frieght and buy a compression checking kit. Run a compression check. The size of the numbers it cranks out are important, but the DIFFERENCE from number to number is whats important. You want to run it a few times (most do 3) per cylinder.

Track your numbers as follows:
Cyl1-
AT1: 123
AT2: 122
AT3: 134

Cyl2-
AT1:123
AT2: 112
AT3: 145

etc.e tc. etc.et e.t.ec.

Next, you can do a leak-down test. If you are unfamilure with a leak-down test, just let us know, we can walk you through it :)

if these test come back solid your rings, your valves, and your engine is in good standing.

This leaves (#4)
Take it to pepboys. ask them to check the check engine light codes. if nothing pops up, good.

The only option *I* know to diagnose this is to take it to a dyno and have the sniffer put on it while the car is on they dyno. Hopefully someone else can chime in with a better suggestion. :)

If your car passes these tests, its probably condensation in the winter time.

Things we looked for:
Cracked intake manifold (visual inspection, coolant levels, spark plug inspection)
Bad rings or valves (Compression test, leakdown test, spark plug inspection)
bad head gasket (fluid levels, color and texture of oil and coolant, spark plug inspection)
running rich (inspection of spark plugs, running CEL codes)

Additional notes:
The "upper" and "lower" intake manifolds on the 2v 4.6Ls are one solid unit -- "the intake manifold". It is impossible to view the bottom of the unit to inspect for damage or if the water is running down the belly of the intake manifold.

Rings on the pistons swell when they get hot. This could help prevent oil from leaking into the cumbustion chamber once the car warms up. If it stops smoking at normal temperatures, your rings may have swelled. (normal)

doing a head swap is completely in your realm of ability. But before you throw money at parts, diagnose the problem first.

Let us know what you find!

-Chris
 
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MustangChris

MustangChris

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#2)
The PI head swap:

There are lots of options out there to swap over heads. I suggest leaving this at a 2v head swap, opposed to a 4v head swap. This can keep the computer systems, wiring, and space under the hood under control.

option #1) buy new
If you buy FRPP PI heads off the internet, they will be expensive and they *will* require a head shop to clean them (i've seen the rubbish that my head guy pulls out of heads fresh out of the box. I wouldnt suggest anyone put a set of heads on a car without having them cleaned, even from Edsle Ford himself.)

Option #2) buy used.
You can hunt down used PI heads, cams, and intake manifolds ALL over ebay, craigeslist, and mustang forums. This will save you MASSIVE money up front, but you will spend some money when you get them to have them pressure tested, cleaned, and decked.

(note: pressure testing tests the sealing capabilities of the valves, cleaning consists of disassembly and running them through a machine, decking them means they make the mating surface of the heads completely flat in order to ensure no warpage causes the gasket to fail.)

This will still be a cheeper route at the end of the day.

#3)
Buy aftermarket:
There are a number of companies out there that will offer aftermarket 2v heads for your car. These will offer much higher performance gains over the standard PI. rule of thumb: horsepower costs money, how fast do you want to go?

#4)
staying NPI
Terrible idea. The cost to fix failing NPI heads to keep the same HP will be a complete waste.

#5)
PI manifold.
you can buy a used PI intake manifold and replace the NPI. This will give you an opportunity to see if that fixes the problem for a mere $100.00... If it doesnt, you only need to pick out heads and cams to match up to it!

#6)
heads and cams.
be careful when mixing and matching products. If you buy comp cams ####### cams and trick flow ####### heads, they may not be compatible with the OEM lower end. (IE: a piston will smash into a valve.)

#7)
doing homework.
People sell these parts for cheep all the time. -- hunt for them.
There are COUNTLESS write-ups on the PI swap on the internet, complete with parts lists for FoMoCo parts.
There are multiple companies offering PI head performance upgrades (stage 2 porting, stage 3 cams, metal manifolds, etc.)



----------------------


Dont get over whelmed. We can help you out. we just need to know what is wrong with the car first... We can walk you through a PI swap, we can tell you if a set of cams are over priced, we can give you contact information to the people to call to see about piston-to-valve clearnce specs.... this wont kill you, unless you just start throwing money at it with both eyes closed.
 

Tony

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MC


fez_I_love_you.gif




haha, dude i know i've been fuukin trippin about the smoke shit. sorry bout that fellas. i def appreciate this thread man!! it has been copied and pasted for any reference i may need! awesome man!! just awesome!!
 

Tony

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it's so funny too cause me and ol MC used to squable like high girls, lolol. remember that mc heeeeh? lol, now we are like this:



super-happy-men.gif
 

96TANGERINEGT

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Wtf ?

That was way to much to read .

Tony , just put new balljoints in it and u will be fine .... Lmfao.
Naw just messin my car smokes a little just like urs .
 

whiplash473

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tony you know theres ball joints just behind the intake right? id say try those first
 

Tony

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how cool is this forum though right? i mean a mod spends time (for free btw) to spend all this time helping out another member! kudos mc really.

edit: ^this makes no fuukin sense!
 

96TANGERINEGT

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At the end of the day he still sucks .... Hahahahaha.






Just playin man ,,,,
Lmfao
 

belber095

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damn chris. nice write up. you better feel damn special tony! :) you'll figure it out dude. just don't sell her!
 
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MustangChris

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eh, its what we're here for ;-)

most of the members ahve been in your shoes... somethings not quite right and they just get overwhelmed.

Just keep it simple:
find the problem first
find out how to fix it
price out upgrades
price out OEM fix
wish you bought a caddy.
LOL!



now orries Tony, we've come along ways! LOL <3


and i forgot to mention that if you do do a head swap, turn the car over by hand (long ratchet on the crank-pulley bolt) through all four cycles before starting it up with the key.
 

Tony

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whoa whoa now that right there i didnt know. that sounds like a biitch man. turn the car on by the crank? hmmm, that will prolly be my only question while i'm doin my swap, lolol.
 
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MustangChris

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as whippy said, its not a big deal.

just put a ratchet on the bolt on the front of the crank shaft, make sure its on tighten, put the car in neutral, and start turning the engine over (key out of the ingnition to ensure you dont start it or something. LOL)

You can place something "soft" (IE: a pencil, a chop-stick, a broken paint stick, etc. ect) in the spark plug hole to watch the piston go up and down.

Ensure you go through the intake and the exhaust stroke (this means you have to watch the piston go up and down a minimum of 4 times [5 times to be safe] in order to ensure it did the entire cycle of the engine.)

if a valve hits a piston, you wont be able to continue turning it over. you just saved your engine for a death sentence.

for future reference, engine builders put a glop of clay in their engine during the assembly process so the valves leave an indentation in the clay to ensure that their pistons' customized dimples and valves are mating up properly. They turn the engine over by hand, remove the heads, inspect the clay, correct as needed. once the clay shows them the signs they are looking for, they remove it before final assembly.
 

Tony

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oh, i got it. ok i'm not going to gay myself up anymore for a while with fuukin ??'s, lol.
 

whiplash473

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i seriously am lmao at the picture in my head of tony sitting there with a ratchet trying to turn it over fast enough to start it like "omg how do these guys do this? these guys are fuggin nuts!"
 

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