Aluminum driveshaft questions…

Daryl

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I’m considering getting an aluminum driveshaft. So, naturally, I have a few questions.
1. Are they stronger than stock? Or just lighter weight so translates to more rwhp?

2. How do I know what “spline” I have: 28? 31? Or ???
3 OE length, or custom measured, cut, fit?
4. Expected cost?

Thank you everyone ( for the 1000th time!) for your feedback, input and shared experiences. Cheers!
 

garrittpwl

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I’m considering getting an aluminum driveshaft. So, naturally, I have a few questions.
1. Are they stronger than stock? Or just lighter weight so translates to more rwhp?

2. How do I know what “spline” I have: 28? 31? Or ???
3 OE length, or custom measured, cut, fit?
4. Expected cost?

Thank you everyone ( for the 1000th time!) for your feedback, input and shared experiences. Cheers!
1. Strength is relative to diameter of the tube, not just the material its made out of. Unsure of exact limitations but I can't say I've heard of anyone sub 700 wheel having issues. They are lighter and less rotating mass is better for horsepower.
2. Your transmission output shaft will tell you the spline count. Looks like you're a 94-98 cobra. 94-95 T5 trans will have 28 spline. 96-98 t45 will have 31 spline
3. unless you've got a weird swap, OE length should be fine.
4. Price is 4-500 bucks not including new u-joints. they're typically 30 each.

 
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Daryl

Daryl

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T5 was replaced with a TKX 5-speed.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Thanks a bunch! Stock length? Need anything else? Yoke, bolts, etc??
 

ttocs

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call silversport and I think they can hook ya up. I remember they asked me about it when I ordered mine and they were the ones that mentioned a local driveshaft shop could cut it down and there would be no problems(assuming it is a reputable shop of course).

See how much a custom made one costs off the shelf, but call your local shops and see what they charge to shorten them and it might be a cheaper alternative especially if you can pick one up used.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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call silversport and I think they can hook ya up. I remember they asked me about it when I ordered mine and they were the ones that mentioned a local driveshaft shop could cut it down and there would be no problems(assuming it is a reputable shop of course).

See how much a custom made one costs off the shelf, but call your local shops and see what they charge to shorten them and it might be a cheaper alternative especially if you can pick one up used.
Thank you both! I called and left message with SilverSport. But in 20 minutes my anxious self will call as soon as they open! Still get excited like a kid in a candy store ;-)
 

joemomma

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Summit sells an aluminum driveshaft, which is what I picked up when I wrecked my factory one changing ujoints. It came with new ujoints installed.

EDIT: it was $400, roughly the same as the Ford one.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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I just talked with Chris at Silver Sport Transmission in TN. The TKX has a shorter bell housing so requires a longer-than-stock driveshaft. He emailed me a measurements form which I will ask my shop to measure and fill in for me. $499 + a la carte upgrades…

Here’s a copy & paste of his email to me:

$499.00 Performance Driveline Engineering driveshaft, including Spicer slip yoke, Spicer high-performance solid hub sealed u-joints, Spicer weld flanges, dynamic 2-axis balanced and painted
OPTIONS:
Add $99 for 1350 slip yoke
Add $75 for DOM Seamless tube upgrade
Add $129 for Chromoly Steel tube upgrade
Add $195 for Aluminum tube upgrade
Add $99 for Fox/SN95 cars with flanged pinion yoke
 
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Mustang5L5

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One of the biggest benefits of AL driveshafts is the diameter and materials move the Critical Speed of the shaft up to an RPM that really isn't practical for most street driven Mustang. Critical speed is the RPM at which the driveshaft becomes unstable and begins to bend and whip in the middle. It's inherit to the driveshaft's natural frequency and doesn't really have much to do with balance.

That big weight that hangs off the rear axle is meant to counter the effects of the CS being reached. It actually is necessary despite what internet lore tells you up until you change to an AL driveshaft. the increase in diameter moves the CS up to a safer RPM range in terms of RPM and road speed.

There's a whole lot more to this than most would care to read, but essentially the AL driveshaft is a good upgrade for many reasons. Also, if you still have the dogbone on your rear axle, you can finally remove it once you swap to the AL driveshaft.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Nope, dog bone has been removed since the MM torque arm, Panhard bar and sway bars were installed.
 

leearnold.1122

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I’m considering getting an aluminum driveshaft. So, naturally, I have a few questions.
1. Are they stronger than stock? Or just lighter weight so translates to more rwhp?

2. How do I know what “spline” I have: 28? 31? Or ???
3 OE length, or custom measured, cut, fit?
4. Expected cost?

Thank you everyone ( for the 1000th time!) for your feedback, input and shared experiences. Cheers!
I have had both. The aluminum is lighter and will spin easier. The steel is stronger and will handle more torque and horse power. If you are running under 700 hp and 700 torque then in my experience an aluminum driveshaft is the way to go. If you are going to the track and running over 700 then I would go with the steel. That advice is based on information I gathered from different sources, others may advise different. I have a 3.5" steel driveshaft now and it should handle all my 4.6 can throw at it. I hope this helps you decide.
I’m considering getting an aluminum driveshaft. So, naturally, I have a few questions.
1. Are they stronger than stock? Or just lighter weight so translates to more rwhp?

2. How do I know what “spline” I have: 28? 31? Or ???
3 OE length, or custom measured, cut, fit?
4. Expected cost?

Thank you everyone ( for the 1000th time!) for your feedback, input and shared experiences. Cheers!

I’m considering getting an aluminum driveshaft. So, naturally, I have a few questions.
1. Are they stronger than stock? Or just lighter weight so translates to more rwhp?

2. How do I know what “spline” I have: 28? 31? Or ???
3 OE length, or custom measured, cut, fit?
4. Expected cost?

Thank you everyone ( for the 1000th time!) for your feedback, input and shared experiences. Cheers!
 

ttocs

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it is impressive to see a shaft that has been twisted past its point of no return but I am sure you at the very least do not want to own the car that it happens to, let alone be driving it when it happens. If it ever happened to one of my cars I think I would mount it to a wall....
 

Musturd

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For your car an aluminum would be nice , I always liked them on my daily street cars . I had one on my car with the tkx . I used a steeda driveshaft spacer not exactly my favourite thing . I ended up getting a new driveshaft made out of steel with 1350 u joints and a billet yolk . If you don’t drag race or launch your car on slicks every weekend the standard 1330 u joints are more the sufficient for the daily driver weekend warrior .
 

leearnold.1122

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I've never had it happen. If it does, I will definitely keep it as a souvenir. I have my build almost complete and should be going to the track soon. I built my car for drag and drive events so everything is overkill. I don't want anything to break but sh!t still happens. The best advice I can give is to build your car to handle more power than you have. The problem is once the car is finished and you've driven it a while, if you're like most, you will want more power. My next build and install will probably be a 3rd or 4th gen Coyote with a bigger blower or twin turbos.
 

Musturd

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I've never had it happen. If it does, I will definitely keep it as a souvenir. I have my build almost complete and should be going to the track soon. I built my car for drag and drive events so everything is overkill. I don't want anything to break but sh!t still happens. The best advice I can give is to build your car to handle more power than you have. The problem is once the car is finished and you've driven it a while, if you're like most, you will want more power. My next build and install will probably be a 3rd or 4th gen Coyote with a bigger blower or twin turbos.


I hear ya . Drag and drives are where it’s at .
 

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