Aluminum driveshaft

apsmith49921

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Anyone running one? For 300 bucks they seem like a decent way to reduce some drive train loss. I'm curious because it doesn't seem like a common mod. But if you could free up say 10hp that's a pretty good pick up for not adding any more strain to a motor since its already making it

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ttocs

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I have one and by the sound of it, it will be too long if I go with the 6 speed trans I dream of.
 

PinkieT

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I've got one only because my stock steel one was damaged and it was cheaper than rebuilding it. How much power does it free up over the heavier stock steel driveshaft? I tried researching it on line and so far haven't found a definitive answer. BTW I bought the Summit Racing driveshaft; it came in a Summit box but had a Ford Racing sticker on the shaft itself. Cheaper price for the same thing.
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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i was looking at jegs which i assume would be the same. I did some research and saw people saying the increased diameter of the aluminum driveshaft offsets the loss in weight for almost nothing. I'm going to break out my physics skills today and see if its true. I should be able to figure the difference in inertia but wont get too far on the HP gained side.
 

DKblue98GT

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I bought a Ford Racing one for my 98 GT about 8 years ago and swapped it to my Cobra when I got that. I can't say I notice any difference but it looks nice...
 

lwarrior1016

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Go ahead and drop that clutch at 6k rpm on some sticky drag radials and see how long that aluminum driveshaft lasts lol.
 

TrickVert

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I installed an Aerostar driveshaft in my '95 for a lot less than $300, basically "for the heck of it." I noticed no SOTP improvements. Rotational mass reduction is one of the best things you can do to "free up" power, but unless you're looking for every .010" on the drag strip, from what I've read, there's little benefit. Know that the diameter of the aluminum shaft is typically greater than the stock OEM unit, and sometimes the E-brake bracket must be modified to prevent interference.
 

tvsn95

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had one, bent/twisted the original. gave a vibration. Put in a 6 speed and NOTHING fits. custom shaft $270 steel
 

ttocs

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had one, bent/twisted the original. gave a vibration. Put in a 6 speed and NOTHING fits. custom shaft $270 steel
yea one of the places I am looking at for the t56 magnum includes the driveshaft and they will probably get my biz because of it.
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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Yeah those t56 typically require the shorter cobra shaft.

I'm just really surprised at how unimpressive people say they are.

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TrickVert

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Yeah those t56 typically require the shorter cobra shaft.

I'm just really surprised at how unimpressive people say they are.
I'm not sure why you're surprised. You're removing somewhere between 4# and 9# of weight (nobody seems to know the exact figure) but increasing the shaft's diameter, so the rotational mass doesn't change much at all. I recall a couple of people, one of whom who was running in the 10's, who switched from stock to aluminum and saw *zero* difference in their quarter-mile time. Just like TB spacers, under-drive pullies, and the Vortex intake insert, this simply isn't a "magic bullet" for increased performance.
 
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apsmith49921

apsmith49921

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From what I've seen its the increased diameter that kills it. I never looked into that just the weight. However the interia is what matters and upping the diameter certainly adds to the value more than a reduction in weight.

Well I was considering buying one of those electric turbos from ebay with the money saved from not buying a driveshaft... guess I'll need to find another scheme for hp lol

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joe65

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i put one on mine. got it for free when i bought my 3" bassani cat back. lol I haven't twisted mine yet. I'm probably at a killer 225 rwhp too! :) I dunno, i did the 373 gears, the driveshaft swap and mine likes to get it on for being a stock motor.
 

tvsn95

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From what I've seen its the increased diameter that kills it. I never looked into that just the weight. However the interia is what matters and upping the diameter certainly adds to the value more than a reduction in weight.

Well I was considering buying one of those electric turbos from ebay with the money saved from not buying a driveshaft... guess I'll need to find another scheme for hp lol

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tvsn95

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In the forwhatitsworth dept, I had a fox burn to the ground. Bad story. But when I pulled the stock driveshaft I found that it was made in 2 pieces. there was an internal piece that was vulcanized to the inside of the shaft. Vibation damping I suppose.
probably the source of the vibration I had. the alum shaft fixed it.
 

Wood's 5.0

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I have the Ford Motorsport vintage aluminum driveshaft in both of mine and there was no difference in performance by the SOTP meter. However, they seemed to make the driveline feel smoother in both cars. One is an automatic and one is a 5-speed. IMO, one would have to dyno the same car, the same day, with back-to-back pulls allowing only enough time to swap out the driveshaft to determine if their is any difference in RWHP due to the reduction in blah-blah-blah. I really don't think there would be any overall difference. Would it spin-up faster? Maybe. Just another parameter you would have to somehow measure. Is a nice piece, though. Big thick, beefy, honkin' mo-fo. I always thought it would really look sweet if it were polished. I'm not gonna do it, though.
 

ttocs

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I personally have to laugh a little when people put something like this or a CAI on and then brag about how they can tell the difference. Realistically unless it was a fairly big difference your butt dyno has not been calibrated recently enough to notice a difference.
 

Chris Stephens

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I'm shocked that you say you don't see people run them. Sure seems to me like EVERYONE has one. My experience with aluminum driveshafts has been generally positive. It will not free up 10hp though.

I had a 94 GT that had such a bad vibration on the interstate when I got it that it would pop out of fifth gear. The bellhousing was cracked on it, too. Replaced the bellhousing so I could drive it and still had the vibration popping me out of gear. Figured I'd replace the driveshaft the following weekend. Then, when I went to do it, I found that my trans was cracked where it had been fine before! Replaced the transmission and BH AGAIN and put the aluminum driveshaft on. Vibration gone. Of course, that was a little different scenario than most. My steel one was likely damaged or out of balance based on how bad mine was.

Back when I had a former dirt track 302 in my current 95 Mustang, I dropped the clutch on the drag strip and revved the heck out of it, doing 6000 RPMs in a standing burnout. I've started in second and ran it to the rev limiter doing burnouts. No problems and I'm still running it today in autocross and track days and very occasional street driving. Now I have a decently strong 351w in the car, on 200tw decently sticky tires. I leave the line as hard as I can in AutoCross, and it's held up just fine. Car's been to 130 and it felt smooth as hell.

It's one of those things that doesn't really hurt you in any way, but doesn't really get noticed too much as a help either. However, if you're doing a form of racing where rapid changes in engine RPM are required, it may be more of a help. AutoCross, road racing/HPDE, etc. You could combine that modification with a lighter flywheel and wheels to do even better. Of course, that's when you're trying to get all the power wrung out of a given combination...there's much more impactful changes to be made.

@lwarrior1016 versus the stock steel one? I'd pick the FRPP aluminum one between those two, personally. The aluminum driveshaft is stronger than the stock one and better balanced. Virtually no downside on a street car or mild build. That's the reason that Ford chose aluminum for the Cobras. If you're serious about the drag strip, a higher rated aluminum one might be smart. I know DSS makes them rated for like 950hp.
 

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