Another control arm thread

9838stang

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I am looking to upgrade from my stock rear control arms. I have been looking and looking and looking, and reading articles left and right and still am confused. My goal with the car is to have a stiffer rear end with minimal to no rear suspension noise coming from the rear control arms. My car has an 8.8 our of a 94 or 95 gt it has about 45k miles to date and the control arms are factory and have approx. 165k.

The control arms im looking at are the

J&M rear lca with spherical bushings

http://www.hotpart.com/1979-1998-1999-2004-mustang-rear-lower-control-arms-for-street-race/

UPR lca and uca
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-solid-lower-control-arms-urethane-bushing.html
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...table-upper-control-arm-urethane-bushing.html

or these
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.html

MM
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Heavy-Duty-Mustang-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-1979-1998-P498.aspx

If i got with mm lca idk if ineed uca or even which to go with same goes for J&M

Basically looking a stiffer, rear end feel, and get a little bit more traction in the rear, and to get rid of my quad shocks
 

RichV

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What noise are you getting now?

I would run a set of J&M or MM box/tube LCAs with a new set of OEM uppers. You can run the quads with this setup, but prolly don't need to. I never have.
 

chris91

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I love the J&M's on my car. I dont have the spherical bushings though. They are a MM copy I do believe. I wouldnt upgrade the Uppers. If anything just replace the bushings in them.
 

Ferocious

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J&M or MM lowers, either will work. OEM uppers as stated. It's pretty simple. If you're still hearing a noise afterwards, it's most likely something else.
 

9838stang

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basically a squeak from every bump. i have taken out my shocks greased them, greased all of the pivot points of the control arms when i installed them. after a year they started squeaking again. new rear brake caliper hardware, used anti seize one the spacers and lugs. also used lock tight on the drive shaft when it was pulled to put in the new rear end. anti seize on the rear quad shock mounts and grease on the areas where the quad shock mounts to.

I also notice a little side to side movement if i hit a bumper (nothing bad just notice a bit of play if i hit one)
 

9838stang

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Also i heard the poly urethane only control arms tend to bind up... and are more intended for 1/4 mile use
 

RichV

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You can't have poly in the uppers and lowers. Lowers are good, as long as the uppers are still rubber (all 4).

Squeaky suspension ... because Mustang. :)
 

KillNThrill24

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Can someone explain to me what the big deal is with having poly upper and lower bushings? And tubular lower AND upper arms? I run J&M with the spherical on the lowers (highly recommend these Alan, they are awesome), and J&M uppers with poly bushings..........................
 

9838stang

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You can't have poly in the uppers and lowers. Lowers are good, as long as the uppers are still rubber (all 4).

Squeaky suspension ... because Mustang. :)

I cant or i shouldn't. only benefit for me if i were to go with the uppers were to have adjustable left to right movement which i dont think i will need at all.
As far as the rear lca. j&m are a spherical at one end and poly at the other. pretty much looking to upgrade for a stiffer feel
 

RichV

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Can someone explain to me what the big deal is with having poly upper and lower bushings? And tubular lower AND upper arms? I run J&M with the spherical on the lowers (highly recommend these Alan, they are awesome), and J&M uppers with poly bushings..........................

Not a big deal for straightline cars, just not ideal for turning. You'll get suspension bind and get something called snap oversteer. There's a lot of info on it, basically the soft bushings have enough slack to allow your suspension to articulate, the angles in this '4 link' (upper and lower) are designed to stop the axle from moving sideways. If the bushings are too hard there is not enough slop in the suspension to move up/down and it will bind in a corner. Then when it releases the rear end will come out on you.

Not sure if it's making sense, but look it up. There are probably better explanations.
 

Musturd

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I run solid bushings . What now . I have a similar setup to first set from upr you posted . Their amazing but hard core for street use . If funds allow I would look into the team z street beast kit ... But honestly your car would be great with some MM weight jackers or j&m with new diff bushings . You can always plate the bottom section of the factory uppers
 

KillNThrill24

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I gotcha Rich that makes sense. Tho I have to admit I wrap corners on the street pretty hard sometimes and I haven't had any issues keeping traction. Maybe the spherical bushings on the lowers help.

Kyle it's only $400 for the street beast kit. Had I known about that when I did my rear end I would have no doubt picked it up
 

Addermk2

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Read your other thread

Sent from my CyanMobileX Evo 4G
 

410sn95

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Well i went with the J&M lcas for now. looking at which uca to buy now. i still dont know if i should get adjustable uppers or just get solid ones. i will also be getting axle bushings too for the uppers.... dunno which
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-spherical-lca-7998.html


As stated before. Just get some new rubber bushings for the uppers. Spend money elsewhere maybe subframe connectors if you don't have them.

If you want to feel like your doing more you could box the uppers and paint them. It will look real nice but will whoop out your new bushings faster as you will have taken some of the flex out of the upper arms and the bushings will have to flex even more(IE. kinda a useless mod).
 

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