So couple weeks back was driving down the road and the engine just died. Would crank over spit and sputter and die. Had the car towed home. When the engine was cold it would start, then die anywhere from 10-60 minutes later. I reviewed the "Jrichker's Cranks but No Start Checklist" and am about stumped.
Car is 100% stock - I've had it around 5 years myself, no issues untill now, and it is coming up on 90k miles.
Items checked
Codes KOEO - Used OBDI code reader so no "human error on flashes"
Had these forever, didn't think any of these would cause a no start
564 - Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure
10 - Next are continuous memory codes
512 - EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
Engine has spark to the plug (removed plug and has a nice blue spark when set near strut tower bolt).
Engine has fuel, pump primes, fan spins, put pressure tester on schrader valve and had 35-40lbs. This is while cranking, running, and still has pressure when the car dies.
Items replaced
ICM - TFI - Read these have problems when they are old and are susceptible to heat, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. Mine was one the passenger fender.
Distributer (and cap/rotor) - Originally thought there was an issue with the PIP, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. After wiggling the connector to the distributer, engine wouldn't start at all. Replaced distributer, engine started ran for 2 minutes then just shut off.
TPS - On order (3.65 volts with KOEO, per the checklist this would turn the injectors off as the computer thinks the engine is flooded (3.70 per checklist)). *Still wondering on this since I disconnected the wiring harness, then jumpered the lines and the DVM shows 0.0 volts vs when plugged in (3.65 volts), still no start. Figured this would allow the injectors to fire for sure.
Suggestions on what I missed or where to go from here? Thanks in advance
.
Car is 100% stock - I've had it around 5 years myself, no issues untill now, and it is coming up on 90k miles.
Items checked
Codes KOEO - Used OBDI code reader so no "human error on flashes"
Had these forever, didn't think any of these would cause a no start
564 - Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure
10 - Next are continuous memory codes
512 - EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
Engine has spark to the plug (removed plug and has a nice blue spark when set near strut tower bolt).
Engine has fuel, pump primes, fan spins, put pressure tester on schrader valve and had 35-40lbs. This is while cranking, running, and still has pressure when the car dies.
Items replaced
ICM - TFI - Read these have problems when they are old and are susceptible to heat, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. Mine was one the passenger fender.
Distributer (and cap/rotor) - Originally thought there was an issue with the PIP, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. After wiggling the connector to the distributer, engine wouldn't start at all. Replaced distributer, engine started ran for 2 minutes then just shut off.
TPS - On order (3.65 volts with KOEO, per the checklist this would turn the injectors off as the computer thinks the engine is flooded (3.70 per checklist)). *Still wondering on this since I disconnected the wiring harness, then jumpered the lines and the DVM shows 0.0 volts vs when plugged in (3.65 volts), still no start. Figured this would allow the injectors to fire for sure.
Suggestions on what I missed or where to go from here? Thanks in advance
.
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