Another crank/no start '94 GT, running of out things to check.

Redeemur

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So couple weeks back was driving down the road and the engine just died. Would crank over spit and sputter and die. Had the car towed home. When the engine was cold it would start, then die anywhere from 10-60 minutes later. I reviewed the "Jrichker's Cranks but No Start Checklist" and am about stumped.

Car is 100% stock - I've had it around 5 years myself, no issues untill now, and it is coming up on 90k miles.

Items checked
Codes KOEO - Used OBDI code reader so no "human error on flashes"

Had these forever, didn't think any of these would cause a no start
564 - Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure
10 - Next are continuous memory codes
512 - EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
Engine has spark to the plug (removed plug and has a nice blue spark when set near strut tower bolt).
Engine has fuel, pump primes, fan spins, put pressure tester on schrader valve and had 35-40lbs. This is while cranking, running, and still has pressure when the car dies.

Items replaced
ICM - TFI -
Read these have problems when they are old and are susceptible to heat, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. Mine was one the passenger fender.
Distributer (and cap/rotor) - Originally thought there was an issue with the PIP, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. After wiggling the connector to the distributer, engine wouldn't start at all. Replaced distributer, engine started ran for 2 minutes then just shut off.
TPS - On order (3.65 volts with KOEO, per the checklist this would turn the injectors off as the computer thinks the engine is flooded (3.70 per checklist)). *Still wondering on this since I disconnected the wiring harness, then jumpered the lines and the DVM shows 0.0 volts vs when plugged in (3.65 volts), still no start. Figured this would allow the injectors to fire for sure.

Suggestions on what I missed or where to go from here? Thanks in advance ;).
 
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95opal

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So couple weeks back was driving down the road and the engine just died. Would crank over spit and sputter and die. Had the car towed home. When the engine was cold it would start, then die anywhere from 10-60 minutes later. I reviewed the "Jrichker's Cranks but No Start Checklist" and am about stumped.

Car is 100% stock - I've had it around 5 years myself, no issues untill now, and it is coming up on 90k miles.

Items checked
Codes KOEO - Used OBDI code reader so no "human error on flashes"

Had these forever, didn't think any of these would cause a no start
564 - Electro-Drive Fan circuit failure
10 - Next are continuous memory codes
512 - EEC battery powered Keep Alive Memory (KAM) test failed
Engine has spark to the plug (removed plug and has a nice blue spark when set near strut tower bolt).
Engine has fuel, pump primes, fan spins, put pressure tester on schrader valve and had 35-40lbs. This is while cranking, running, and still has pressure when the car dies.

Items replaced
ICM -
Read these have problems when they are old and are susceptible to heat, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. Mine was one the passenger fender.
Distributer - Originally thought there was an issue with the PIP, since started and died 10-60 minutes later, this made sense. After wiggling the connector to the distributer, engine wouldn't start at all. Replaced distributer, engine started ran for 2 minutes then just shut off.
TPS - On order (3.65 volts with KOEO, per the checklist this would turn the injectors off as the computer thinks the engine is flooded (3.70 per checklist)). *Still wondering on this since I disconnected the wiring harness, then jumpered the lines and the DVM shows 0.0 volts vs when plugged in (3.65 volts), still no start. Figured this would allow the injectors to fire for sure.

Suggestions on what I missed or where to go from here? Thanks in advance ;).

You may have fuel pressure at the rail but if the PIP in the dizzy is beat you wont have injector pulse. This is more than likely your issue. A noid light on an injector will verify this.
 
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Redeemur

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You may have fuel pressure at the rail but if the PIP in the dizzy is beat you wont have injector pulse. This is more than likely your issue. A noid light on an injector will verify this.

So doing the the injector pulse test, didn't look good. Now the question is why? New distributor and ICM. So this is why I was thinking the TPS is telling the computer to cut off the injectors? Jumpering the TPS so it shows 0 volts you would think would tell the computer you have the throttle wide open if I understand it correctly (around .9 volts at idle to .0 volts and wide open throttle for a functioning TPS, mine has 3.65 or so volts at idle).

Video of the TPS voltage from idle to wide open
TPS voltage test 1

I would assume the PIP is good in the brand new distributor but...

Video of the last test
Injector pulse test 1
 
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Redeemur

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Sounds like no spark
Mabe the tfi on passage fender
Verified engine has spark to the plug, validated while cranking and still no start.

ICM - TFI has been replaced, was the first item replaced, ran for the normal 10-60 minutes after replacement.
 

07GtS197

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Have you checked all the harnesses? What about the coil? Electronics build high resistance when they get hot causing electrical failures.
 

95opal

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So doing the the injector pulse test, didn't look good. Now the question is why? New distributor and ICM. So this is why I was thinking the TPS is telling the computer to cut off the injectors? Jumpering the TPS so it shows 0 volts you would think would tell the computer you have the throttle wide open if I understand it correctly (around .9 volts at idle to .0 volts and wide open throttle for a functioning TPS, mine has 3.65 or so volts at idle).

Video of the TPS voltage from idle to wide open
TPS voltage test 1

I would assume the PIP is good in the brand new distributor but...

Video of the last test
Injector pulse test 1
Yup no injector pulse. I dont care if the dizzy is new ive seen bogus new parts plenty of times.
 

dcm0123

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It might be helpful to spray starting fluid into the throttle body to see if it attempts to fire. If it does, it would be safe to say your problem is related to fuel delivery. If it does not attempt to fire, then it is likely spark related.
While it does not tell you the exact problem, it narrows down the area to investigate.
Have you pulled any of the plugs to look at them?
 
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RAU03MACH

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i dont like using starting fluid
lots of things can go wrong using starting fluid
i have seen intakes that were damaged when using that
 

96blak54

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Compression, spark, fuel is the 3 components needed for a running engine.

Are we 100% positive the spark is timed correctly?

Literally watched the injectors spay fuel?

Compression check?

These may be redundant questions. Purpose is to generate ideas
 

Nreed

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This happened to me not to long ago but was interment ended up having to replace the CCRM having check that yet?
 

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