I want to move my battery to the trunk but I don't want to buy the kit upr makes. What all would I have to do? But a box for the battery and longer power and ground wires? Is that it? What gauge wire should I get? Any other useful info I may need to know? Thanks
Anybody do a battery relocation?
- Thread starter joshuaw3
- Start date
I am in the process of doing this. You don't need the UPR box. There are other kits that will work. IMO, your best bet is to source the box separately from the cables, you probably will want to run larger cables. Though you could use what comes with the kit.
On how to do it, I'll be happy to share my thoughts on it. There are 3 ways I think. I documented them in this post here on kill switches. I am also in the process of writing a how-to guide on swapping out the gauge cluster, and am including a battery relocate in it. I have a wiring diagram on how I will be doing it (using a kill switch).
If you don't want to run a kill switch and just want to relocate your battery, it's as simple as this:
- either buy a kit or source cables that are long enough. Most folks run with 1/0 cable, the UPR kit comes with 4 AWG IIRC.
- Install the box in the trunk (or wherever).
- Find a good, new ground to the chassis near the box. This will be for the battery negative cable.
- For the positive, run the cable from the battery up to the front of the car where the battery used to be. Connect this cable to the existing positive cable up there.
- Connect the existing ground cable up there to a good chassis spot.
- Optional, but highly recommended, install a 200 Amp fuse (or manual reset circuit breaker - do NOT use an auto-reset circuit breaker) in the new positive that goes from the battery to the front of the car. Install it as close to the battery as possible. This will protect against surges (and possible fire) should something bad happen like a wreck and the battery cable gets shorted.
If you want to run a kill switch, depending on whether you are dragging or tracking your car, then it's a little more complicated.
Edit: made it into steps so it's easier to read
[MENTION=8229]97stanger[/MENTION] did his but I believe he ordered a kit.
I have thought about doing it a few times and maybe moving the battery to the space under the rear seat like Dan (riosnake) did.
I have thought about doing it a few times and maybe moving the battery to the space under the rear seat like Dan (riosnake) did.
Also, if you are interesting, I may be selling my UPR kit. Never been used. I'm possibly changing direction with what I am doing.
Depends if you just want to put the battery in the trunk, or if you want to do it according to rules like nhra (vent box, kill switch, etc).
I was about to do it, but decided to postpone once I started because I actually wanted to do it right.
I was about to do it, but decided to postpone once I started because I actually wanted to do it right.
I used this kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48010/overview/
Many classes require your battery to be in a full box if your trunk and drivers compartment are not separated. Also, dont go for that 2ga BS. Go for the 1ga.
The hole for the positive terminal goes down inside the frame rail and runs forward to near where the LCA attaches IIRC. Then run down the side of the car up to the starter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48010/overview/
Many classes require your battery to be in a full box if your trunk and drivers compartment are not separated. Also, dont go for that 2ga BS. Go for the 1ga.
The hole for the positive terminal goes down inside the frame rail and runs forward to near where the LCA attaches IIRC. Then run down the side of the car up to the starter.
ttocs
Post Whore
I did my own with 0 awg wire. I am not running any racing classes so I just went with a sealed battery and no box and made my own mounts for them. That was one thing I was happy about after my wreck was that the batteries didn't move an mm so I know they are solid.
97stanger
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Sorry, but no battery relocation here!
ttocs
Post Whore
If you want to save a few bucks check into welding wire.
slow90coupe
Well-Known Member
I did mine for about $40. I got 20 feet of welding cable from ebay and a $15 battery box from Jegs. It does the job, but I do want to add a circuit breaker to it.
ttocs
Post Whore
a breaker or fuse is not an option in the install. Well I take that back you could opt for a fire extinguisher and some long handled/insulated wire cutters instead. Rule #1 on running ANY power wire is to fuse with in 12" of the battery or as close as can be allowed. If you want I can even direct you to some nice battery terminals that have fuses built right into them.
How much would you want for the upr kit?
ttocs
Post Whore
Do you mean the battery terminal?
Oh my bad I quoted the wrong person.
How much do you want for the kit?
$90 + shipping. You get to save about $40 off the cost of one from LMR. Like I said, it's new, never been used. Just opened the box to confirm all the parts are present. It still has the protective wrap stuff on the aluminum.
I disagree with the ground being next to the battery if it's in the trunk. With mustangs being unibody you then don't have an actual real ground to the front of the car. Even with sub frame connectors. There are lots of articles written about why you should run the negative cable all the way to the front of your car. I tried this on one of my cars and it helped the car start easier amount other things.
ttocs
Post Whore
so what is the difference then when the battery is grounded right next to the battery up front and all the electronics in the trunk is grounded to the chassis? answer = nothing. As long as you have a solid ground in the back of the car the difference between it and a ground wire ran all the way to the front is minimal. I am not saying there is no difference but its minimal at best and I am actually doing both for my high current stereo I have planned. I am running a 0 awg ground wire from front to back and grounding it at both ends to be sure that its solid but its completely overkill and not necessary.
Meh. I hear what you are saying, but the reality is that the area in the trunk, provided paint is scraped away and it's a good solid connection, it will work just fine. No need to run a wire all the way up to the front. There are tons of stock grounds under the dash, connected to the unibody. This was good enough for the factory. The trunk is the exact same part of that unibody, with good solid welds (otherwise the car would flop all over the place).
If you want to be extra careful (and this is actually a good idea for those over-doers), you can run a ground from battery negative to trunk, and another ground from battery negative to the frame rail in the rear (and if you really want to over-do it, run a wire all the way back up to the front).
And of course, if you really want to run wire up to the front, you could do that too. I don't think it's really necessary, you are adding the weight of the wire, and if that ground wire gets clipped or anything you now have open circuits. General rule of thumb is to keep ground wires as short as possible, provided there are good grounds nearby. Running the cable all the way up to the front isn't really necessary. If your unibody wasn't grounded well, you would have other electrical gremlins before you even did your battery relocate.
It is probably a different story on newer mustangs. I haven't put the battery in the trunk on one yet. On my 69 mustang it was a different story. Once I ran a ground to the front of the car it was easier to start the car. Probably had alot to do with 40 year old wires.
