Do you know anyone that sells shorter rack bolts? Or am I just going to have to go to my local hardware store and get some?
Anyone put a tubular k member in their car?
- Thread starter joshuaw3
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Do you know anyone that sells shorter rack bolts? Or am I just going to have to go to my local hardware store and get some?
mtang98 gt
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im surprised no one has mentioned AJE
ttocs
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What is up with AJE they are actually not far from me and just seem too cheap to be good/true.
I was looking at some of the AJE stuff a while back. I think their products look great and I don't see why they would be a problem to use.
ttocs
Post Whore
I have read some complaints about them but it seems the that most of them are from the same guy from back in 2002. Hopefully if there were issues they have taken care of them. Pretty sure they are close enough I could go to the shop to pick it up but again it just seems too cheap not to be cheap...
I think its the firs place I have seen with aftermarket control arms that have spring purches which with my air ride has me curious. Also wondering about their drop spindles if anyone has experience with them.
I think its the firs place I have seen with aftermarket control arms that have spring purches which with my air ride has me curious. Also wondering about their drop spindles if anyone has experience with them.
98snakehorse
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FWIW, I thought I would chime in as I just installed my UPR k-member. The k-member itself bolted right up perfectly using the factory mounting bolts. Only thing I had to get was shorter bolts for mounting the steering rack. Installed my engine last weekend with Blue Oval industries motor mounts and the stock steering shaft and everything lined up great. That was also with longtubes. Pics of fitment are on my build thread.
FivepointSlow
Well-Known Member
UPR sells a set of bolts but its kinda pricey. I would have gone to my local hardware store but they suck at stocking bolts.. so i sucked it up this morning and ordered them from UPR
FivepointSlow
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Im about to install a upr k member and a arms hoping everything fits and i habe a good experience instead of a bad one
McCloud
Active Member
Bench racer here checking in. I had a UPR k-member kit on the 96 and had several problems with it.
1)I ordered fox-length A-arms with mine, which is common, to tuck the front wheels in a little more. I think I got 1" shorter than stock fox-length arms because she looked like a Pro Mod car when we put her on the ground with the skinnies up front the first time. I couldn't run stock Bullitts without using a 1" spacer on the front. My builder called about the a-arms but UPR swore they were stock fox-length.
2)Due to the really short a-arms it put my struts and coilovers nearly straight up orientation causing alignment issues. Even with the MM c/c plates in the negative "racing" orientation the best camber would could get was -0.5*
3) Coilover kit was terrible. Had 14" 175 lb springs and fox-length Strange struts but the car rode like a brick. It'd clunk, pop and squeal over speedbumps and any dip in the road.
4)The oil filter hit the k-member when trying to remove it. I had to loosen the d/s motor mount nut and jack the engine up just to get the filter off. This was with the short FL820S filter too.
4)The k-member bolts hit the welds like warrior mentioned.
I had that k-member installed with the new motor back in 09. I put 8k on my car in the next 5 years. I'd put the car up for a month or so until I missed driving her, I'd drive her for a day and remember why I put her up.
I've since switched to a full MM setup with Bilstein struts and 10" 300lb springs. Car rides much better without all the noises. It's fun to drive again.
On a side note, in 2006 I installed a PA Racing Tubular K-member with spring perches in the car. Their K allows you to run the stock A-arms and coil springs. I was very pleased with that kit too.
I also have that UPR kit still sitting in my garage if anyone wants it. I'd let it go for next to nothing.
^that is what I fear will be happening with me. If I get my car together and it squeaks, I will be so angry. Now with that being said, I think the upr piece is not a truly "bad" piece, they are just to inconsistent for me to be comfortable ordering from them anymore. Like I have said though, I have upr rear upper and lower control arms and they fit great and operate as designed.
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Hmm, Im running the stock A-arms so I cannot comment on their coil-over quality. The K-member itself at this point for me I have no complaints.
95opal
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Nothing wrong with team z kmembers.... when you read these threads you have to take it with a grain of salt. Not everyone has a clue as to what there doing, Ive seen guys **** up a CIA install and blame the product. So remember the source of the complaints.
I run the autox k from team z and all you need is off set rack bushing for it. jUST REMEMBER TO SQUARE IT WHEN YOU PUT IT IN.
Its nice to have some real world feed back about those guys. Thank you for that. Also, you have a good point about taking the info with a grain of salt because (as you said) not everyone is mechanically inclined enough to do the install. I know that I have a bad habit of putting myself in other peoples positions and trying to solve their problem, but everyone things differently and has a different skill level. Please don't take my other post as bashing team z because I wasn't doing that in any way. I don't have their product, I just saw that OP here was asking and that thread on corral was active. I thought he might want to do all his research before purchasing.
95opal
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no worries just wanted to point out the fact that not everyone is on the same skill level and sometimes get themselves in over there head hence product bashing. I know quit a few guys running the team z k with no issues. Doesn't mean there haven't been a few to make it by QC that weren't perfect but that's with every company.
slow90coupe
Well-Known Member
1. That's to be expected when running fox control arms. They're shorter, meaning you'll have clearance issues, especially with coilovers. Even without shorter control arms the wheels are close to touching.
3. This has a LOT to do with the type of CC plates you're running. I've ran UPR coilovers with stock cc plates, UPR cc plates, and MM CC plates. Stock made tons of noise, MM made none, and UPR made a noise every once and a while.
4. I also had this problem. It's because of the gigantic POS oil cooler Ford put on these cars. 99-up cars didn't have this problem. I'd have to think every K-member would have this issue unless they redesigned the tube that's in the way.
I have gone back and forth on installing a K-member next time my engine is apart but I don't want/need coil overs so that narrows it down some. I really like the Steeda but it is $$$$$$$ so I may go with the Afco unit as I think it will be plenty strong on a DD.
Kboss87
Member
On my old car, I installed a upr k member and it was very noisy. I did not have any fitment issues (besides steering rack bolts) or welds break. This car made 730whp and I drove it everywhere. Besides the noise, it was fine.
On my current project, I was going to buy a team z kit...however after reading all the issues, I may just go MM. I want/need quiet operation on this car or I'll loose my mind.
On my current project, I was going to buy a team z kit...however after reading all the issues, I may just go MM. I want/need quiet operation on this car or I'll loose my mind.
FivepointSlow
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How did it make noise? Sounds like a bushing problem not a k member problem.
Tony Corley
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Over the years, owning MANY Mustangs, I have probably installed just about every brand out there. The thing to remember is that nothing of this scope is always going to just fall in in place. You don't hear about the thousands that fit fine, only the few that have an issue. Most of the time the problem stems from the car it is being installed on having previous frame issues, or the installer being inexperienced.
I have ran Dave's stuff, (Team Z), UPR, Racecraft, AJE, MM, and even had a Granitelli once in a 98 Cobra. They all worked, and gave no problems. I am more of a drag guy, so the MM and Granitelli copycats are heavier than I prefer. UPR was good to me when I was building an NMRA Real Street car a few years back and supplied front and rear suspension, so I appreciate that. Dave Z has been a huge help for a friend of mine on his drag car, (Chris Tuten), so I appreciate that. For my cars, I would choose one of them because of that, and the fact that I have successfully installed both. Anthony Jones at AJE was very easy to deal with when I was installing a Mach 1 drivetrain in a Fox about 10 years ago for a customer, and it fit well also. If your car is mostly street, and weight loss is not your biggest issue, then MM is probably the strongest of them all, and the most expensive. From time to time, most aftermarket parts usually require some type of "tweak" to make them fit correctly.
I have ran Dave's stuff, (Team Z), UPR, Racecraft, AJE, MM, and even had a Granitelli once in a 98 Cobra. They all worked, and gave no problems. I am more of a drag guy, so the MM and Granitelli copycats are heavier than I prefer. UPR was good to me when I was building an NMRA Real Street car a few years back and supplied front and rear suspension, so I appreciate that. Dave Z has been a huge help for a friend of mine on his drag car, (Chris Tuten), so I appreciate that. For my cars, I would choose one of them because of that, and the fact that I have successfully installed both. Anthony Jones at AJE was very easy to deal with when I was installing a Mach 1 drivetrain in a Fox about 10 years ago for a customer, and it fit well also. If your car is mostly street, and weight loss is not your biggest issue, then MM is probably the strongest of them all, and the most expensive. From time to time, most aftermarket parts usually require some type of "tweak" to make them fit correctly.
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