Anyone running the Trickflow Twisted Wedge 360HP Top End Kit?

[ElKabong197]

Built auto > manual for a built car. Never miss a shift, plus boost will hold between shifts which is a huge advantage

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[rz5.0]

I would also do boost first. You need a bov regardless of transmission..

 

[RichV]

Built auto > manual for a built car. Never miss a shift, plus boost will hold between shifts which is a huge advantage

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Not everyone drag races Homieizzle. Only autos are my wife's car and my daily.

 

[OnyxCobra]

I have to agree with Adder here, I did a head/cam combo and then added a blower. If i could do over again I would have gone with the SC first. If you go with a turbo setup (and maybe even vortech or procharger) you can make enough power with the stock heads/cam to potentially put your stock block in danger.

 

[KillNThrill24]

Any form of FI can blow your shit up without needing heads or cams. Another vote here for FI first

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[the5.ohh]

I would also do boost first. You need a bov regardless of transmission..

Hmm.. Oh no shit I didn't know that.. guess because all the boosted cars I've seen in person with turbos were stick and had bov's.

 

[rz5.0]

It doesn't have to be a bov it can be a bypass valve. But the boost has to go somewhere when the TB closes..

 

[Orange 94]

+1 on blower.

They're just so nice to drive. Not there when you dont want it to be, but nearly instantly when you do.

 

[Win]

Yep I'm with everyone else. Just boost it to start with. Maintain drivability , then build a motor on the side.

 

[fiveohwblow]

I decided to go with the Vortech v1 (yes, I am old) long before I went with any head/cam options and actually found this to be quite a fun ride. To give you an idea of the mods/power I had:

Cobra intake manifold (original but not sure if that matters)
70mm TB
80mm Mass air
shorty unequal headers
bassani OR/X
Magnaflow CB
Smog Delete
AFM Power pipe

I strapped that on and went to the dyno with zero tuning. My a/f ratios were actually good and I put down 296/320 and I believe it peaked around 5100 RPM or so. Factory cam and heads just all the bolt ons. I had other simple things like plug wires, 30 lb'ers etc but thats not pertinent. I eventually bought a set of TFS heads and an Ed Curtis custom grind. Long story short it was a blast in both forms but I did the SC route first and agree with the sentiment to blow first, breathe later!

 

[ivan12]

I have the TFS Top End kit with the stage 1 cam and a D1SC Prochager. No complaints about the idle or drive ability after the tune. All was done during the tear down though, no experience with one or the other by themselves.

 

[1bad9d5]

I have the TFS Top End kit with the stage 1 cam and a D1SC Prochager. No complaints about the idle or drive ability after the tune. All was done during the tear down though, no experience with or the other by themselves.

What kinda power did you end up with it at the end?

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[ivan12]

478 rwhp and about 420ish TQ

 

[5-oh-MUSTANG]

478 rwhp and about 420ish TQ

How are the internals holding up?

 

[ivan12]

Great so far, block was brand new when I bought it and I used the internals (forged pistons) from an extra 91-92 motor I had laying around. ARP hardware everywhere though, it's a stock bottom end but at the same time not quite I guess.