Wichers123
Well-Known Member
Idk like 5 or 6 inches
i see. so how exactly do they mount on? and why are they better?
A true coil-over mounts similarly to our conversion, with some differences. Typically, this is on cars with upper and lower control arms; the true coil-over is not used as a locating part of the suspension, and the top attaches to the car body/frame (no camber/caster plates but rather a fixed mount, much like the lower on your rear shock). The bottom of the coil-over mounts usually to the lower control arm or spindle, depending on setups. You will not be able to run anything like this on your Mustang without some *serious* modification/fabrication because the Mustang suspension just isn't designed this way. It uses struts up front, which are an integral part of the suspension mounting system - your spindle mounts to the strut rather than an upper control arm. If you have a car that uses a true upper and lower control arm, chances are you can probably find a true coil-over that fits. Since our cars aren't designed that way, we have to "settle" for beefy struts/shocks that can handle the conversion and spring rates.
As to why they are better, it's debatable. A true coil-over doesn't have to overcome some inherent limitations that a conversion does; like for example how to mount the sleeve and how good of a fit it is. In a true coil-over, there's no sleeve per se. Also, true coil-overs tend to be more race oriented, so they are made out of better materials with better technology (and a price tag to match). However, you can still get shitty true coil-overs. Honestly, I'd bet a dollar that if you used a well matched shock/strut/spring coil-over conversion vs. a true coil-over of similar quality/spring rates (meaning we aren't comparing uber expensive true coil-overs to our conversion), you won't notice any significance difference in performance. I think they'd perform equally.
We have to use conversions because of our suspension geometry. Cars that have real upper and lower control arms can use a true coil-over, so why bother developing a conversion for them. Thus the difference between the two: application. That's probably about it.
And on the bump stop - yes, you can remove it. Just keep in mind it's there for a reason. With it there, if your rear suspension bottoms out for some reason, your rear diff will hit the rubber/poly bump stop. If you remove it, lower the car, and then bottom out your suspension, your rear diff with the hit the bottom of your trunk. So there's that. If you always drive careful, then it probably ain't no thang. If you bottom out your suspension a lot, well...
Just wanna add that if you want to lower the rear end alot and keep the bumpstops, you can lay the fender on the tire and it'll stop your rear diff from going up into your trunk and bottoming out. My rear is super stiff but I don't experience any bottoming out anymore. Instead the tire just hits the fender lip on bumps. This is all on springs, but I'm going to assume the same would apply if you had coilovers.
I removed my pinion snubber. Use the external bump stops that came with my shocks. .
wouldnt that mess up your tires?? I dont quite picture this. did you modify your fenders? did you use spacers?
Lol the pinion snubber is the bump stop.is removing the pinion snubber like removing the bump stops?? what advantage does the pinion snubber removal have over the bump stop removal? or vice versa
Lol the pinion snubber is the bump stop.
No, yes, yes.
My fenders are pulled and have an extreme roll to them. They do not cut the tires because they were probably rolled. They rub alot but at the end of day it's just rubbing. It's bearable to me and it saves me from bottoming out. Now that I think about it, it pretty much prevents any upwards travel in my rear suspension. It can only go down, not up.