Approach on pulling Engine questions

Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by 4.6Stangrage, Jun 2, 2015.

  1. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    I have seen videos that utilize two paired threaded holes on opposite sides of the engine and I have seen pictures that utilize 4 bolts on the top where the intake bolts to. I plan on lifting both engine and trans at the same time from the top. Another question, how do i remove the torque converter nuts from my engine since my engine is seized.

    Thanks for reading!
     
  2. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

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    You can use a bell housing bolt and a front accessory bolt for lifting points. You can remove the transmisson after you pull the combo out. The torque convertor seats on the pump snout on the tranny. After you remove the pair, remove all the bellhousing bolts and rock the trans from side to side while pulling back.
     
  3. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    On teh drivers side of the block there is an access hole.... you can get to the converter bolts from there. Just spin the crank clockwise vis the crank bolt and each one will pop right into the window....... If you strip one youre pulling the pack
     
  4. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    His engine is siezed....
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    You could pull the pack out, and when its on the ground use a die grinder to cut the ears off the torque converter. In this situation, something is going to get damaged when pulling it apart. Are you trying to save these parts?

    Also, when pulling them I usually bolt to the heads where the intake manifold would be.
     
  6. D3VST8R96GT

    D3VST8R96GT Well-Known Member

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    lmao that is a very important detail that i overlooked
     
  7. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    Yeah I would prefer not to damage these parts, they worked just fine when the 'stang ran. If its not possible, Ill just have to buy new parts. Ill make a good assertion you pick up a set of bolts and washers to bolt it to the top of the head like that?

    thanks for your replies
     
  8. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Yes, I like to use good grade 8 hardware. I think thread pitch is 8mmx1.25 and I go probably 1" or 1 1/4" long. Just make sure you tighten the bolt down, that's when it is the strongest. I'll put a picture below that shows how I lifted mine, I only did the engine but you can use the same concept for the whole package. Now when it comes to getting that converter off, you might be able to unbolt all the rods from the crank and push the pistons up in the cylinders, or beat them in with a hammer if they are seized. Then try to turn the crank, or unbolt the main caps and then try to turn the crank. Any way you go about this, something is getting damaged and if you want to save the converter then something in the engine will get damaged. Not like that matters much though, its frozed up lol.


    Kind of hard to see, but I have it bolted at the front and back. If I was pulling the whole package I would bolt at the 4 corners on the heads.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    Thanks for the reply! Yeah I was thinking of the same thing. I was thinking of returning the engine back as a core anyways. I have no use for another iron block. Ill probably pick up a Teskid if I decided to build an engine for this car. I have a set of Windsor PI heads i can use to build a teskid PI combo.

    Anyways, I need to find some kind of setup like you have to lift it out.
     
  10. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    eBay man, they have that sling for like 40 bucks. Or you can get it from a snap on dealer for $75
     
  11. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    I looked around and i did not see any quite like the one you have. I will have to look around more. I like the idea of a steel cable instead of chains.
     
  12. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I'll look up a link for you today and post it back here.
     
  13. MikeA

    MikeA New Member

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    If I can I try to use the 4 corner exhaust bolts/studs to lift an engine transmission unit out of a vehicle. I have a leveler so it is the best to use all 4 corners if you can. You can get them from Harbor Freight pretty cheap.
    As for separating the trans from the engine when you get the unit out set it down, support the front of the pan with a block of wood to keep from tipping when you take the transmission off, take out the bolts and have a friend help slide it off the convertor. Don't let the transmission hang with the bolts out or you take the chance of damaging the trans, convertor or both. Be ready for a mess from the convertor draining. You can then get to the bolts to get the convertor off.
     
  14. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Ok, well I only found 1 listing on ebay and it expired some time ago. Ill give you the link to the snap on page so you will know what to look for. I dont know where else to get them other than snap on.


    https://store.snapon.com/Engine-Hoist-and-Slings-Engine-Sling-1-2-Ton-Capacity-P636196.aspx


    Thats the one i have
     
  15. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    A load leveler is your friend for pulling engines. Allows you to get the perfect angle without having to keep adjusting chains, straps.
     
  16. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    I found an affordable load leveler this one is 3/4, do you guys think its good enough for lifting my engine+ automatic trans? It can lift in 4 places.
     
  17. 4.6Stangrage

    4.6Stangrage Member

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    3/4 ton I mean
     
  18. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    3/4 ton, 4 point leveler should be plenty. That puts you at 1500 lbs lifting capacity. I think that would be enough. I have used one of the levelers that auto zone has and I'm pretty sure it was a 3/4 ton.