Barely Modified 95 GTS Need Clutch Info

Discussion in 'Drivetrain' started by Dugzy33, Jun 26, 2015.

  1. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    1995 GTS
    GT40 heads and Intake
    CAI
    70mm TB

    That is all the engine mods.

    My rear gears are the factory 273
    I just bought the 373's

    I was going to put the gears in but I might as well replace the clutch, it is the original.
    It is also very smelly on hard driving and burnouts.

    My plan is to change the flywheel too.
    I have done tons of searching.
    It seems that the aftermarket ckutches can eat up the throw out bearings.
    I am now leaning to a stock clutch as I plan on keeping the mostly stock engine for now.

    I will of course change the rear main seal.
    does my year (95) have the aluminum bearing retainer?
    if it does I will change it too.

    Any and all advice much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Doug
     
  2. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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  3. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    Never had a centerforce dual friction eat a TOB... Had them on quite a few of my cars. Have one in my current car too. It's all how you set up your clutch cable with the firewall adjuster. If you ever plan on middling the car a decent bit buy a nice clutch now so you don't have to worry about buying another one down the road.
     
  4. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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  5. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    Just from what I've read, I wouldn't use a clutch cable other than an MM.
     
  6. CC'S95GT

    CC'S95GT Legend

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    At least if the cable snaps , it's easy to replace. Unlike the TOB.
    Definately go with a Ford cable is possible. (MM cable is a ford cable)
     
  7. chris91

    chris91 Well-Known Member

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    I've had a UPR adjustable cable for the past 2 years and it's been fine. Most problems with the cable are from people that don't align the quadrant right.
     
  8. 87hurricane

    87hurricane Member

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    I dont think clutches eat TO bearings, I think crummy TO bearings and misadjusted clutch cables account for most of the failures.
     
  9. Dugzy33

    Dugzy33 Member

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    just bought this...

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/SPC-SF481/Spec-Stage-1-Clutch-Mustang-86-01


    I think I am going to buy a ford racing TOB and Pilot bearing and just toss the ones in the kit.

    I have seen a lot of people with clutch adjustment issues when upgrading a clutch.
    even with an aftermarket adjuster and quadrant.

    I plan on leaving the stock quadrant, just to have something to compare too, then putting in this...

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMCP51/Maximum-Motorsports-Mustang-Clutch-Cable-Kit

    I am also going to get a new flywheel cast ford since I only have mild mods and the clutch is not Dual Friction.
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...Flywheel-For-50L-Cast-Iron-105-157-Tooth-50Oz

    I'm going to buy all new hardware too.

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M6397A302/86-00-Mustang-Pressure-Plate-Bolt-And-Dowell-Kit

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...d-Mustang-V8-ARP-Pro-Series-Flywheel-Bolt-Kit

    Also a rear main seal.

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-6701A/1982-04-Mustang-50L-38L-Rear-Main-Seal

    Do the 95's have a steel TOB retainer or do I need that too?

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M7050B/94-95-Mustang-Ford-Racing-50L-T-5-Bearing-Retainer

    Anything I'm missing?

    I'm just worried about losing reliability with the new quadrant and adjuster set up.

    Please advise.
    Thanks,
    Doug
     
  10. 87hurricane

    87hurricane Member

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    Seems like you've got your bases covered. As long as you set everything up right, there is no reason to lose any reliability.
     
  11. lutter94

    lutter94 Well-Known Member

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    thats the right bearing retainer. I'd still say double hook quadrant and firewall adjuster. Mine worked flawlessly. But its your call. Idk why it wouldn't be reliable....