I will share mine but keep in mind this is a very simple setup that is not going to pass track specs since I have not included any shut off switch. I may add a shut off later if I end up wanting to track the car more. To start I ran the main power wire from the starter back to where the battery box would sit inside the car, making sure to use zip ties and wiring tie downs to keep the cable secure.
The wire is wrapped in tech flex and tied to either factory wiring loom where I can or riveted to the car with the supplied clamps. Mounting the box was simple enough, though this box is huge. It easily accommodates my battery and the relay panel for the fuel pumps.
Next was cutting the factory battery cable ends off and grounding the ground. Starting with the factory wiring I cut the ground wire and used a 2 gauge ground connector to bolt it to the radiator core support. I then ran the factory power that would have went from the battery up front to the starter/power distribution box, all that took was cutting the end off and splicing in the factory square connector that goes to the power distribution block. Now that wire runs solely from the starter to the power distribution box.
Lastely the box was filled with the battery and relay board as well as connections for my battery tender. You can see the tender is plugged in, I ran the wiring to the back side of the box so in the future I can plug it in without removing the lid.
So in a simplistic overview I now have power coming from the battery (in the trunk) to the starter. From the starter it is carried to the power distribution block via the factory wiring. The battery is now grounded in the trunk with the supplied 2 gauge wire. The factory ground is now connected to the core support. Like I said this a very simple relocation strategy that will get more complex when I add a kill switch. Hope this helps a little.
