Battery relocation wire routing

Would also like to see some pics.

 

Also interested as I'll be doing this soon.


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I ran mine through the interior but because I needed to connect to it for my stereos fuse holders in the back seat area. I probably would have gone under the car the whole way if not for that.

 

I will share mine but keep in mind this is a very simple setup that is not going to pass track specs since I have not included any shut off switch. I may add a shut off later if I end up wanting to track the car more. To start I ran the main power wire from the starter back to where the battery box would sit inside the car, making sure to use zip ties and wiring tie downs to keep the cable secure.








The wire is wrapped in tech flex and tied to either factory wiring loom where I can or riveted to the car with the supplied clamps. Mounting the box was simple enough, though this box is huge. It easily accommodates my battery and the relay panel for the fuel pumps.





Next was cutting the factory battery cable ends off and grounding the ground. Starting with the factory wiring I cut the ground wire and used a 2 gauge ground connector to bolt it to the radiator core support. I then ran the factory power that would have went from the battery up front to the starter/power distribution box, all that took was cutting the end off and splicing in the factory square connector that goes to the power distribution block. Now that wire runs solely from the starter to the power distribution box.












Lastely the box was filled with the battery and relay board as well as connections for my battery tender. You can see the tender is plugged in, I ran the wiring to the back side of the box so in the future I can plug it in without removing the lid.





So in a simplistic overview I now have power coming from the battery (in the trunk) to the starter. From the starter it is carried to the power distribution block via the factory wiring. The battery is now grounded in the trunk with the supplied 2 gauge wire. The factory ground is now connected to the core support. Like I said this a very simple relocation strategy that will get more complex when I add a kill switch. Hope this helps a little.

 

No problem at all. The cable enters the car in the passenger foot well area (you can see it entering in the pictures). Then I just pulled the carpet up and ties it to the harness that is running back. Once you get to the back seat area I just ran the wiring behind the plastic interior trim and over the rear passenger wheel well. That gets you back to the trunk where it is tied up and stays behind the trunk trim panel. I don't have any pictures but there really is only one way to run it back there if you just hug the factory wiring harness and then keep it all behind the interior panels.

 

Both my ground and power are 2 gauge. If you want to run the cables under the car check out battery cable thru studs.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/electrical-firewall-bulkhead-connectors?ibanner=SREPD1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all76142?seid=srese1&gclid=CKSXr564pMgCFZWJaQodpS4PLg

That would make it easy to run the cables from the battery down to the trunk floor and connect to the stud. Then connect another wire from the stud on the outside and run that wire down the bottom of the car and to the starter and block. They are relatively cheap and then there is no need for a grommet and the twisting of the wire when you try and make it turn 90 degrees.

 

Anytime! Make sure to document what you do, I am always ready to see new ways of doing something!

 

I like the idea of the studs but also could see it being a maintenance nightmare.

1) for every break in the wire(connectors to stud) you are adding resistance.

2) just another set of bolts to worry about possibly loosening in the future

3) battery post corrode and limit power flow, I'd imagine these would as well

Again, I totally like the idea and cleanliness of install it could make for but still concerning.

Would be curious if others have done this and how they've held up after long periods of use


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...........sneaky like ninja?!?


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the studs do make for an easy pass through but there is more then enough room for a standard grommet to run it through imo. As logan said its another joint to worry about but also just another cost to pay.

 

I made a dual run of 0 awg through my interior and you will not see it.