battery relocation
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Lightning Struck
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outside
stimpy94gt
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outside for sure, those big cables can get pretty hot exspecially if you have a big draw on them (ie: stereo system) and heat and fabric aren't great friends
Pennywise2
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If your car is a daily driver a battery relocation kit isn't a good idea.
So with a battery relocation, are you required to run an external switch on the car to be legal on the track?
The only reason i ask is because i have a tiny little battery that i would like to relocate to underneath the rear seat, but i dont want to have some ugly ass switch onthe outside.
The only reason i ask is because i have a tiny little battery that i would like to relocate to underneath the rear seat, but i dont want to have some ugly ass switch onthe outside.
19mustang95
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i wouldnt put a battery underneath your rear seat, its a little space and can do some damage if somethign bad happens.
94yellowgt
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I just relocated my battery over the weekend and me and my frined was able to run a 2/0 welding cable through my car and you can't even tell its there. If you pull the carpet up on the passenger side, there is a body chanel with groments already in it that you can run the cables in. We ran it under the rear seat, had to drill 1 hole and put a groment in, ran it in the body chanel with the factory Ford groments already in place, had to drill a hole in the floor right above the starter and put a groment there. I didn't put a cut-off switch on it, but I did put a breaker inline with the hot cable. I drove my car the other night for about an hour and the cable was cold as ice. If the cable is big enough, then it should not get that hot.
why shouldnt you run the cables inside.....im a bmw tech and every single car that we have is runnin the battery cables right through the inside of the cars.......and thats the cables i have......it is an everyday driver but i have to have the room up front .....i also have underdrives so is that a problem..???
98-5.0 said:
Exactly. Inside the car is fine as long as the cable is the right gauge. If you cables are getting hot, you got a whole other problem.
As for the switch, Yes, you much have a kill switch clearly labeled to be NHRA/IHRA tech legal.
As for the ground to the motor. If you run a grounding strap from the motor to the frame somewhere on the front and ground the battery to a GOOD ground in the back, you should be good. Somepeople say to run a ground from the battery ALL THE WAY to the engine. There is no reason for all that in my eyes. You have ground issues if you can't get a good ground in the back.
As for underdrives...mine drops to about 12volts at idle but runs right at 13.5 cruising....and I've got asp underdrives with the battery in the back. I don't run A/C or a big honking stereo either though.
KELS94GTVERT
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sounds good nic info
Pennywise2
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Yes that and risk a fire starting.DFG_Pimpin said:
so then go ahead and run my cable inside the car....???my cable is the same size as the cables that are on the car now....is that a problem......and should i just tie into the original cables and just connect to them and run it back?
98-5.0 said:
STOP. If you just run a cable the SAME size as stock, you're going to run into problems. The car may start when cold but when it gets hot (the starter gets heat soaked and actually becomes slightly harder to turn), you will probably run in to starting problems at the very least. Charging could be come an issue as well. The thicker the cable, the less resistance to flowing current it will have. The smaller in thickness the harder it is. This generates hot cables. The longer the cable, the more the current has to work to flow....again...generating more heat. If you extend cables or any wire for that matter, you should go UP in gauge (thicker). For battery cables, 00 is the best. Welding lead is the ultimate. More strands make is easier to manage as far as routing the cable and also flow current better.
As for where to route your cables, you CAN route the new cable to the fuse block under the hood so long as the cable going there is THICK enough. The best routing is from the battery DIRECTLY to the starter, the starter to the fuse box under the hood. Run the alternator cable from the alternator all the way back to the battery (minimum 2 gauge). Ground the battery in the trunk, and the engine block to the frame. You can never have too many grounds. IF you are going to run a kill switch, make sure it can flow enough current to handle your alternators output....150amps should do it. You need to put the switch in between the battery and starter obviously but in order to ensure the car is cut off when you hit the switch, put the alternator on the post of the switch that the battery is on other wise, you car will continue to run when the switch is tripped.
TIP: Put a small 3-5 amp fusible link across the poles of the switch. This will make it so when the switch IS tripped, your ECU won't clear itself out. IF you try to start the car with the switch off and that link in there though, it will blow the fuse....so keep some spares.
This is a no shit way to put it in. You will not have any charging problems this way and you can daily drive it.
