Been a few years, looking for advice.. (95 GT)

ren · Oct 13, 2014

Car is saying.. "Soon"

Hey guys I used to be a lot more active with my mustang a few years ago, finances and life got in the way somewhere but I am getting ready to fix it up again and needed some advice.

It's been sitting for over 19 months, last I drove it pushing in the clutch had a weird feeling (no snap) and I suspect the clutch imploded as there were horrible metal on metal sounds if I would try to turn the engine over. Didn't plan on having it sit this long but want to go ahead and get it working again after parking it

For starters I obviously need a new clutch, so was thinking of starting here (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/LRS-7560B-K/94-95-Mustang-50L-Master-Clutch-Replacement-Kit), car has no engine upgrades so power won't be a concern

Can't do the work myself unfortunately but anyone have a price estimate for putting this kit in? I'm in Los Angeles and if anyone had a shop recommendation that would be cool as well

I'd probably do the oil pan gasket as well since that was leaking but anything else I should be paying attention to after the car has sat this long?

Thanks everyone and hope to be posting more about it soon

CC'S95GT · Oct 13, 2014

Do the rear main seal too. and possibly the front although the front can wait till later if you don't have the money now

ren · Oct 13, 2014

CC'S95GT said:
Do the rear main seal too. and possibly the front although the front can wait till later if you don't have the money now

That kit comes with a rear main seal, was planning on having that thrown on as well because while it's open why not

Kboss87 · Oct 13, 2014

Aside from changing the fluids, charging/checking battery, checking hoses/belt, maybe a tune-up, etc., shouldn't really need anything else besides whats broke.

Kboss87 · Oct 13, 2014

Oh and also, I've had the Ram HDX in another car. Its a great clutch. Held up well even with a 100 shot of nitrous.

ren · Oct 14, 2014

Well here we go, car is clean, parts are ordered

OnyxCobra · Oct 14, 2014

my clutch has never had any snap to it, that's just how these cable clutches are if I'm thinking of what you're talking about.

the5.ohh · Oct 14, 2014

Great choice on the clutch. I love my HDX.

g36 monkey · Oct 14, 2014

Do not use that steeda adjustable cable. I strongly suggest getting an OEM ford cable with the rest of your purchase.

On the note of how much is installation. Most shops pull trans and do clutch from 3 to 400. I've seen as low as 2.

GregT94SCC · Oct 15, 2014

Check input shaft seal and the snout that the throwout bearing rides on. If it's not too worn or gouged from the failure a little Emory paper should clean it up.

mcglsr2 · Oct 15, 2014

g36 monkey said:
Do not use that steeda adjustable cable. I strongly suggest getting an OEM ford cable with the rest of your purchase.

This. OEM cable and MM cable adjuster and you will be happy (as will your cable).

RichV · Oct 16, 2014

The Steeda kits had the Ford cable, at least at one time. It's the one I have on my race car, of course I bought mine about 5 years ago.

g36 monkey · Oct 16, 2014

Steeda now makes their own conglomeration of parts thrown together to make a cable, and from experience, they snap quite easily lol

ren · Oct 20, 2014

mcglsr2 said:
This. OEM cable and MM cable adjuster and you will be happy (as will your cable).

Thank you for the warning! Returning the Steeda parts and ordered a cable and adjuster straight from MM

ttocs · Oct 21, 2014

I recently upgraded my clutch in preparation for the added power from the vortech and after asking around I picked a different version to handle the power. Everyone I talked too though said to go with a ford racing throw out bearing even though my kit came with one. I know the last time I had my clutch replaced they used the tob that came with it and it started whistling 2 week later. Now it didn't ever actually fail as it did that for the last 4 yrs but imo its still worth the cash to hopefully save you from tearing it all out again.

g36 monkey · Oct 24, 2014

Apparently not Ford racing but OEM ford

mcglsr2 · Oct 24, 2014

g36 monkey said:
Apparently not Ford racing but OEM ford

^this. OEM Ford TOB. I also got one when I did my clutch rather than use the one that came with it - for the same reasons, everybody said to use that "or else." And I wasn't going to take the chance billions of internet users were wrong.