Betty The 98 GT

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Jules98GT

Jules98GT

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The car is old haha I expect it. I have access to a hose maker so I’ll do all the lines up in stainless braided when I tackle that project.
 

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Digging the project, had to do an intake swap/upgrade on our 98 not long after getting her too. Now it's a transmission leak that seems to be aggravating to track down. But still fun to diagnose!
 
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Jules98GT

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Thank you! And yeah leaks of any kind can be a pain.
I’m not sure if this will work/ is safe for our car but I use a UV die at work in hydraulic systems so I can identify leaks faster.
I’ve thought about that for my power steering issue.
The oil comes with the UV in it from the supplier but if there were an additive you could top off the fluid and drive her a bit and use a black light to see where it’s coming from.
 
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Jules98GT

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After a solid month of driving the car at least 3 times a week to and from work, some street pulls, and one SCCA auto cross event I've got a way better idea of what to do with the car moving forward.

Before the event I changed my oil, and looked the car over. It needs some front lower control arm bushings badly, same with the lower rears.
BMR or MM everyone? Any personal experience? Peddlers coil over kit is stupidly cheap considering the gains I would get in handling.
I know there are track/auto cross guys out there, feel free to school me here.

I placed 7th out of 10 entries in the CAM-T class, considering my front tires are basically slicks manufactured in 06 and it was my very first time I'd say it was a good day. Best time in my class was 56 seconds my personal best was a 68. Easily 90% of that is my driving skill HA i.e it is TERRIBLE. I will get there though. Auto cross is a blast!

The motor throws some heat, like a lot. I know I am new to this but it does have me slightly worried.. That being said my water temp gauge doesn't seem to move up or down during the heats. The connectors are original as well as the sensors so I ordered some OEM replacements. Wires were junk, sensor plastic was brittle. Why not right? I love LMR for this type of stuff.

I also found my oil leak due to the event, in between heats I noticed the PCV hose leaking in a couple of the joints as well as a valve cover leak. Air oil seperator? New valve and hoses? Fire away with your suggestions :) I've noticed some guys don't even run a PCV.

Ordered a new harmonic-balancer, and valve cover gaskets for the motor before the next event at the end of June as well as some front tires. I have a shelf full of air oil seperators at work I'm going to ask the boss for a donation haha

I have pics somewhere, I'll upload them soon.
 
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96blak54

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100% air oil seperator. Todays normal driving cars can benefit installing one and its not the blow by like everyone claims. Its oil spun off the cams into a mist. The oil suspension gets drawn out of the valve cover.

When circuit racing, i cant stress enough about an extra capacity oil pan designed for road racing. The extra capacity is a plus but its the slosh baffles that you want. The tight turns cause the oil to slosh to the side away from the pick up tube sadly causing a dry sump that will eventually eat your engine. Factory oil pans are no good for this. Aftermarket pans are expensive but cheap insurance.
 
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Jules98GT

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100% air oil seperator. Todays normal driving cars can benefit installing one and its not the blow by like everyone claims. Its oil spun off the cams into a mist. The oil suspension gets drawn out of the valve cover.

When circuit racing, i cant stress enough about an extra capacity oil pan designed for road racing. The extra capacity is a plus but its the slosh baffles that you want. The tight turns cause the oil to slosh to the side away from the pick up tube sadly causing a dry sump that will eventually eat your engine. Factory oil pans are no good for this. Aftermarket pans are expensive but cheap insurance.
Another great piece of advice I overlooked. That makes perfect sense to me thank you!
 
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Jules98GT

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)_68038019748_DAF1EFF1-7B34-4E9C-BD86-F8839DCC84F4.png

It's been awhile since an update. Work has been busy, life. The usual thing you read as to why we haven't worked on our cars haha.
Front tires arrived today, early. Tire rack is awesome.

Through the week if time permits I'll be installing prothane bushings in the front lower control arms.

As of right now everything I am doing is in preparation for a track weekend at Gingerman raceway.
 
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Jules98GT

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Started removing the lower front CA's today.

The Steeda X2 Ball joints should arrive tomorrow.

Getting serious over here my hope, if the weather holds up, is to finish the prothane bushing upgrade on the front lowers this weekend and get the control arms back on the car.
I'm pretty curious to see how much more responsive the front feels after this.

I also learned which springs/their spring rate as well as the dampeners that were on the car when I acquired it. I'll link those here.

PRO-KIT Performance Springs (Set of 4 Springs) FORD Mustang GT Convertible SN95
PRO-DAMPER Kit (Set of 4 Dampers) FORD Mustang GT Convertible SN95

Knowing is better than not! Ha!
"Luck favors the prepared"

Hopefully I'll have the CA's out tomorrow and I'll upload some pictures.

Edit: Parts pic.

Dorman Harmonic Balanacer
Dorman battery hold down (to replace my autocross ratchet strap)
Prothane Spring insulators
Prothane lower control arm bushings
Prothane swaybar links
Steeda X2 Ball Joints

(edited)_IMG_2936(1).png

I am super excited to see what the front end feels like after this.
 
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Jules98GT

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Got everything broke loose on both sides tonight, as well as the steering shaft moved forward. By the time darkness set in I couldn't see the steering shaft very well, I'm going to have to break that loose to get the drivers side the rest of the way forward.

IMG_2940.jpg

The plan is to get both control arms off tomorrow, and maybe if I'm ambitious I'll press the bushings in.
 
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Jules98GT

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Alright. Question for you all.

Who has had difficulty sliding the steering rack forward?
I’ve loosened the bolt on the shaft, the drivers side doesn’t not want to play nice.

I can visibly see that the rack and steering shaft have not separated.

Any ideas?
 
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Jules98GT

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Update: removed instead of loosened the steering shaft bolt and the SOB came forward no problem.
Front CA’s are out.

I’ll have to wait until Monday to burn the bushings out at work. So since I’ve got to wait, I decided to tackle the back as well.

I won’t be able to post pics until I get to my desktop. I’ll do that later.

Edit for pics:

Pictures of one of the stock bushings. Fair to say I am glad I did this now.
IMG_2951.jpg

IMG_2952.jpg

Both out CA's out.

I am stoked to see what this car feels like with urethane all the way around it.

As always thanks for looking!
 
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Jules98GT

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IMG_3028.JPEG

Had some time today to clean a bit before re-assembly this weekend. Haven't had time to do much else with work taking all my free time.
 
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Jules98GT

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Had a productive week with the car, I am please to say the front end feels amazing.

For you who have been following along or helped me elsewhere on the forum these hydro bushings are different but not difficult to work with. I had a lot of questions, and was hesitant, suspension work has always had me a bit on edge mainly due to my own in-experience with it.

So in the hopes of helping someone like myself in the future, here it goes.
First and foremost, DO NOT use heat. Hydro bushings are oil filled, as the name suggests.

The first picture is of the bushing sleeve with all the rubber removed. I took the time to clean this one up before I removed it to get a good shot.
From everything I researched this bushing was mostly used on the Cobras, and some GT's and is really not all the common.


IMG_3027.JPEG

Alright moving on. Here is a picture of that same sleeve slid out. Using a hammer and chisel between the control arm and the flange on the sleeve pictured it'll slide right out. Don't be afraid to wack it.

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And here is the sleeve being removed with the rubber attached. Using the drill bit method and a press to remove the inner bolt sleeve.

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Notice the pockets for the oil.

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Alright so those were removed and cleaned up. New urethane bushings and Steeda x2 ball joints installed.

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The difference between a standard ball joint and the steeda is pretty crazy.

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Took them suckers home and to install them on the car. That was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. The steering shaft of all things is what gave me the most trouble.

Also installed the urethane steering rack bushings, and the sway-bar end links as well as the spring kit.



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Not gonna lie - this is when I really started to get excited. Getting the car ready for power is kind of a drag, its expensive and slow going but I will be glad I went this route first.

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Got everything set up and Started putting it all together.
 

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Jules98GT

Jules98GT

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IMG_3070.JPEG

Getting the springs in wasn't as bad as I thought, I just took my time with a hand from a friend of mine.

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Steering rack bushings installed and wrestled with that damn steering shaft for at least an hour ha..

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Good look at the Prothane swaybar link+bushings.

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And FINALLY the other side. I'm 100% sure I was fighting myself the entire time lol.

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Ate dinner, set the toe in and out best I could and set her down for a test drive. She handles like a dream and will get aligned next week hopefully.

There is only one shop around me that has any experience with CC plates.


Next project is the rear end. Purchased a 373 gear kit for the car.

Pretty sure stock is 323?
 

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