Bewst questions.. Vortech V3

the5.ohh

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Alright here's the story. I'm the type of car guy who likes to get the car looking like a million bucks, stereo, interior, suspension setup etc. Now for power all I have is a bone stock 5.0, 70mm tb, 76mm maf, mac longtubes, bbk offroad x, mac mufflers, and a C&L ram air intake, 3.55 gears, aluminum driveshaft, 5 speed etc.. So its pretty slow, I mean its torquey, but still slow as balls. I've been debating for awhile on whether to go HCI or boost it. Motor is original, 58,400 miles on it just like the car. Runs strong, healthy motor. I'm looking at getting the Vortech V3. Tranny was rebuilt and beefed up a bit, and I have a ram hdx clutch, rated for 450 ft lbs/ 450 hp iirc, so I'm not worried about that area. I can't justify ripping the motor apart to maybe break 300 at the rear tire, when a blower is a much more simpler install, and it will net the power I'm yearning for. This car is my daily driver, so I want a fast daily, but on the safe side. My goal is 300-330 rwhp. The blower kit comes with everything except injectors, maf, fuel pump. My questions are, can I have my current 76mm maf tuned for bigger injectors? What injectors should I run, 42lbers? And fuel pump a 255 correct? I would obviously run a boost gauge, and a wideband inside the vehicle. I'm not looking to run an intercooler, aftercooler or meth injection btw. With the mods I already have done, add the blower plus supporting parts, I should see 300 to the tire easily in my opinion with a good tune, what do you guys think?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-vortech-supercharger-9495v8.html
 

ttocs

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I am not the motor expert but I have done a HCI swap and about to add a vortech. With either the HCI swap or the supercharger you can plan on getting a tune which would allow you to use 42 lb injectors if you wanted. I asked around what size I should run and with the HCI 42 was recommended to me so you can probably get by with a smaller injector if you want to save some $$$. Yes you would need a bigger pump, gauges are definitely helpful to know what is going on. I hear 300 to the wheels isn't a problem with it and more if you wanted. Intercoolers are not easy on the vortech so I am adding a snow meth kit which is perfect for me imo since its only used at full throttle.

My only other bit of advise is if your not in a hurry you can save a boatload. I had been considering it for a while when I stumbled on my kit on the coral for the 2nd time I ever logged on there. The guy got the kit, took the head out to admire it and then wrecked his car and got a terminator so I got my kit for $2400 shipped. There are also good deals to have on used kits but personally on something like this I would rather get it as new/complete as I could but that is just my stinky opinion.
 

Orange 94

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Just throwing this out there... But wouldn't a winter car be a better buy then boost your current car that you have to drive in the snow?

Also, aren't you getting to the point where college is coming up? Money would be better spent on the schooling itself or a practical daily.

Just trying to throw some reason in here.

But if you go through with it, get it tuned locally. Its just a much better experience if the tuner can actually be with the car. Do your research then contact your chosen tuner with any more questions.
 

the5.ohh

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I am not the motor expert but I have done a HCI swap and about to add a vortech. With either the HCI swap or the supercharger you can plan on getting a tune which would allow you to use 42 lb injectors if you wanted. I asked around what size I should run and with the HCI 42 was recommended to me so you can probably get by with a smaller injector if you want to save some $$$. Yes you would need a bigger pump, gauges are definitely helpful to know what is going on. I hear 300 to the wheels isn't a problem with it and more if you wanted. Intercoolers are not easy on the vortech so I am adding a snow meth kit which is perfect for me imo since its only used at full throttle.

My only other bit of advise is if your not in a hurry you can save a boatload. I had been considering it for a while when I stumbled on my kit on the coral for the 2nd time I ever logged on there. The guy got the kit, took the head out to admire it and then wrecked his car and got a terminator so I got my kit for $2400 shipped. There are also good deals to have on used kits but personally on something like this I would rather get it as new/complete as I could but that is just my stinky opinion.

Not in a rush at all, I appreciate the input. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled. I'm looking to save money, but I won't
skimp on parts, I'll get the best I can for the application.
Just throwing this out there... But wouldn't a winter car be a better buy then boost your current car that you have to drive in the snow?

Also, aren't you getting to the point where college is coming up? Money would be better spent on the schooling itself or a practical daily.

Just trying to throw some reason in here.

But if you go through with it, get it tuned locally. Its just a much better experience if the tuner can actually be with the car. Do your research then contact your chosen tuner with any more questions.

Valid points. I'm about to finish up the start of my 2nd semester. I've got my stuff setup so I'm getting my schooling paid, and saving some money while stashing some mod money on the side. I most likely won't be getting a daily anytime soon.. Need to convince my dad. I got snow tires on the car now, so we'll see what happens. Good point on the tuning. I would only get it tuned locally. I never liked the handheld or chip ya get online. They're not there to see how the car is reacting, if its too rich, too lean etc.. So local tune is a definite. I'm in no rush though to boost it, got plenty of time. Just trying to get the research aspect together so I know what I'm
getting into.
 

Orange 94

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There are definitely people that are great at remote tuning. Just in my experience its a pain in the ass to get the data logging working (properly) and then communicating with tuner to get him to do his job. If its local you can meet the person face to face, support local business, the tuner can have his hands on the car and its all done right there. The tuners can usually tell a lot about the car by just being there. My tuner noticed my cat was plugged since it was getting hot on the dyno... also made some good recommendations to me.
 

ttocs

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I did dyno tuning while I was in az but I can't find anyone with a good rep nearby for me now in the midwest. Its 4 hrs to my closest and with my stomach problems I can't travel so I am going to be going the rout of remote tuning this time. I already have all the gauges for data logging so I hope it will work out ok.

I also try not to get cheap parts myself but until pot is legalized and I can cash in my pot stocks I will more then likely have a small pile of parts in the basement waiting for something else to be installed with it. Had my side exhaust for 2 years before I had it painted/installed and had my heads for 8 months before the cam was on sale to match it. Of course in school it might be harder for you to stash stuff till its time for install but with out it I would be driving a stock stang.
 

CC'S95GT

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I did dyno tuning while I was in az but I can't find anyone with a good rep nearby for me now in the midwest. Its 4 hrs to my closest and with my stomach problems I can't travel so I am going to be going the rout of remote tuning this time. I already have all the gauges for data logging so I hope it will work out ok.

I also try not to get cheap parts myself but until pot is legalized and I can cash in my pot stocks I will more then likely have a small pile of parts in the basement waiting for something else to be installed with it. Had my side exhaust for 2 years before I had it painted/installed and had my heads for 8 months before the cam was on sale to match it. Of course in school it might be harder for you to stash stuff till its time for install but with out it I would be driving a stock stang.

Have you thought of learning to do it yourself? Your great at all this other electronic wizardry, I'm sure you can handle a QuarterHorse or Megasquirt
 

RichV

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IMO, HCI all the way.

300-325 at the wheels is pretty simple with a healthy shortblock. Don't be intimidated by tearing into the motor, the worst part about it will be cracking bolts that haven't moved in 20 years. But it's a good time to replace all the to end gaskets anyways. You can do it on the cheap, or go all out with AFR heads, a good custom cam, and a well flowing intake. And some fuel supporting mods. The when you boost it in the future it will make some good power!

The s/c route on a stock top end you'll be doing the equivalent amount of wrenching as a HCI, engine compartment will be a little crammed after. Tuning is going to be a little more of a PITA. Moneywise if buying all parts new, the s/c may be a little more expensive, but you will be at the limit of the stock parts. Then if you do a HCI, you will be at the limit of that V3.

At $3700, you can do a lot for HCI. Probably a few other things on that budget. And don't forget to upgrade the cooling system either way you go.
 

the5.ohh

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There are definitely people that are great at remote tuning. Just in my experience its a pain in the ass to get the data logging working (properly) and then communicating with tuner to get him to do his job. If its local you can meet the person face to face, support local business, the tuner can have his hands on the car and its all done right there. The tuners can usually tell a lot about the car by just being there. My tuner noticed my cat was plugged since it was getting hot on the dyno... also made some good recommendations to me.

Agreed. I just never cared for distant tuning. What if its a Friday night and its running rough, they don't get in till Monday and I need the car retuned for saturday? Local is better for me
 

the5.ohh

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I did dyno tuning while I was in az but I can't find anyone with a good rep nearby for me now in the midwest. Its 4 hrs to my closest and with my stomach problems I can't travel so I am going to be going the rout of remote tuning this time. I already have all the gauges for data logging so I hope it will work out ok.

I also try not to get cheap parts myself but until pot is legalized and I can cash in my pot stocks I will more then likely have a small pile of parts in the basement waiting for something else to be installed with it. Had my side exhaust for 2 years before I had it painted/installed and had my heads for 8 months before the cam was on sale to match it. Of course in school it might be harder for you to stash stuff till its time for install but with out it I would be driving a stock stang.

Understood. Yeah in school I'm on a tight budget lol, but I work with what I got. I've done all this stuff so far while being in school so, its getting there lol
 

the5.ohh

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IMO, HCI all the way.

300-325 at the wheels is pretty simple with a healthy shortblock. Don't be intimidated by tearing into the motor, the worst part about it will be cracking bolts that haven't moved in 20 years. But it's a good time to replace all the to end gaskets anyways. You can do it on the cheap, or go all out with AFR heads, a good custom cam, and a well flowing intake. And some fuel supporting mods. The when you boost it in the future it will make some good power!

The s/c route on a stock top end you'll be doing the equivalent amount of wrenching as a HCI, engine compartment will be a little crammed after. Tuning is going to be a little more of a PITA. Moneywise if buying all parts new, the s/c may be a little more expensive, but you will be at the limit of the stock parts. Then if you do a HCI, you will be at the limit of that V3.

At $3700, you can do a lot for HCI. Probably a few other things on that budget. And don't forget to upgrade the cooling system either way you go.

Good input. If I do HCI, I'd go for the Trickflow top end kit. Besides that kit, I'd need a tb adapter, roller rockers, lifters, i'd get everything ARP as far as bolts for everything. So say thats around the price of the blower, including the parts I listed plus injectors, fuel pump, adj fuel press reg etc. Next year I plan on having a daily, and I really favor buying new parts unless its like the intake, tb adapter etc.. So if I have a daily, the stang can be down and get worked on. That would give me the oppourtunity to tear it apart, bag all the bolts and stuff, and install most of the new stuff. I'm pretty confident I could tackle it with my brothers and dads help. Labor would be a killer on that
 

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Wait for [MENTION=8550]hottwheels04[/MENTION] or onyx to drop by this thread they know these 94-95 cars. Hottwheels isn't to far from you either probably knows some reputable shops.

Honestly I was going the steeda #19 direction and gonna add a blower to my old 94 before that plan got derailed. I think you could get that cam and some top end goodies from a cobra for much less than TF H/C/I and boost when budget allows.
 

5-oh-MUSTANG

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Yea when and if I am going to do motor work, im gonna go gt40 intake ($150), stock cam for driveability and its pretty decent for stock, and fresh gt40 heads ($450) or used aluminum ones for like ($6-700). I would have decent amount of power than before and would be very reliable. Plus, id have a fresh motor with new gaskets and what not. On paper u may not have 300rwhp but it sure would feel like it lol. All this under $1000 too.
 

slow90coupe

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Something to think about... I have $400 in my HCI setup for my coupe. It's a simple setup.. GT40 3 bar iron heads, Anderson N41 cam, and an explorer intake. With some cheap 24lb injectors and a 255 pump added to the mix, I'll be able to make nearly 300RWHP and don't have to worry about tuning (figure $500 for a good tune). That's the route I'd go. And that setup will put basically zero stress on the motor and last literally forever. Then if you want to add boost at a later date, you can and will have a great starting platform.
 

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As Rich noted, if you upgrade H/C/I now, and then you boost it later on, you will make much more power, and not have to run as high PSI because of the better flow.

You can do the h/c/I in a day, maybe a weekend if you're slow about it, so it's not like you need a daily to do that. A few local fox guys have done the trickflow top end kits and been around 330 or so reliably. Food for thought.

And as mentioned, on the cheap you can't really beat the GT40 setup
 

the5.ohh

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As Rich noted, if you upgrade H/C/I now, and then you boost it later on, you will make much more power, and not have to run as high PSI because of the better flow.

You can do the h/c/I in a day, maybe a weekend if you're slow about it, so it's not like you need a daily to do that. A few local fox guys have done the trickflow top end kits and been around 330 or so reliably. Food for thought.

And as mentioned, on the cheap you can't really beat the GT40 setup

True, hci plus blower would be a lot of power. I'm just looking for 300 to the tire or more, that's always been my goal. Just figuring a blower would be easily to achieve that. On other side, hci would mean power all the time, thumping and camming all the time too, which I always liked the idea of having that. I wouldn't do both, it would be one or the other. If I thought about the GT40 route, I could get them brand new for like $1k, I'd rather cough up the extra $1700-$1800 for the full trickflow top end kit. Used GT40s go for a few hundred, plus having them ported and polished, and cleaned up, would be almost as much as a new set of heads. I hear what you're saying.
 

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If you want to do one or the other. Start with the HCI everyone knows the stock heads on those cars don't flow well, so adding boost still will leave power on the table.
 

95opal

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If I were to start with a bone stock sn again I would slap a blower on it instantly and skip the HCI crap. For all the prts and aggravation a gt40 set up isn't worth even considering for the minimal gains youll get out of it. If you plan on doing an HCI skip the low budget crap they just aren't worth it. A TFS track heat top end or an AFR, Holley or similar set up would probably be the only HCI option I would look into otherwise a cheap fox vortech set up would b e the way to go. You can pick up a fox vortech set up off corral for $1500 swap out the timing cover and convert to fox TB all for less than the price of the TFS top end kit
 

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