Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance

Thomas_W · May 11, 2016

Freefallin said:
Update:

Prior owner says he can send me $1k to help out but I am still in a holding pattern on how he can get the cash to me. I texted him this morning and he said "working on this as we speak". I guess I don't understand how it can take this long to decide which method of funding to go with.

Sean

who knows. Its probably more of s "where am i going to get it" more than a "how do i get it to him" kind of thing.

Frank.JD.Perez · May 11, 2016

do paypal or venmo (veenmo? idk)

ScottyDsntKnow · May 12, 2016

Paypal or have him send you a postal money order. Not difficult. This guy is stringing you along. I mean how long did you have the car before the bottom went out? Did it run fine when you picked it up?

Freefallin · May 12, 2016

ScottyDsntKnow said:
Paypal or have him send you a postal money order. Not difficult. This guy is stringing you along. I mean how long did you have the car before the bottom went out? Did it run fine when you picked it up?

This is how I feel as well but if I keep bothering him, chances are he wont do it for sure. He said his lady is going to "put a couple of checks in the mail". I had the car for exactly 1 week when I figured out it was blown. Was under the assumption it just needed tuning. I've got half a mind to tell him I either want my SVT Focus back or him to take care of the entire bill since both he and the shop said the car was fine.

Sean

Witzy0070 · May 12, 2016

Sounds like you're fcked.

Freefallin · May 12, 2016

Here is the short of what transpired:

-Saturday April 30th meet owner of Mustang at the shop he had work done at to potentially trade
-Looked car over thoroughly, drove it, asked a ton of questions as to the health of the car and both shop owner and Mustang owner agreed it just needed tuning but motor was fine and dandy
-Drove home and parked car without driving it once until tests occurred
-Had Ford Master Tech scan w live data and perform a leak down test to find passenger side cylinders 1,2,4 do not hold compression
-Immediately text prior owner of Mustang to inform him of findings
-He called an hour or so later and said he feels terrible and didn't know it was bad and said he wants to "help" as much as he can
-Told me to send him my email and we would communicate over next few days
-I had been the one to ask countless times how much he can help me and when and what form the money will come to me in
-Offered to help in any way possible and suggested several venues to receive funding
-Few days went by without any responses or answers but responded text yesterday and said he think his girl friend is sending checks
-Asked for my address but didn't know when she was going to send them out
-Asked is he could let me know when they get in the mail so I know when to expect them and he answered with with "Yes Sean"

I am not sure what my next move should be. I don't want to piss him off and end up not getting any money, but in the same token he said he would help. I feel he is beating around the bush and not being very helpful almost intentionally. Do I straight up call him and tell him either he gets me the money he promised or we trade cars back? Is that too drastic? I feel my request is fair because I just want to understand why this is taking so damn long. I am out of my transportation and need the money so I can send the block to machine.

When he called me to talk about how he can make it right, he told me he considers me a friend and would never intentionally make a bad trade. He's a car guy in his 40's (I think) and had a grand national that he runs at the strip so he understands all of the performance stuff just fine. It's been well over a week since this happened and I haven't even gotten a straight answer out of him.

Appreciate the advice guys.

Sean

Thomas_W · May 12, 2016

If it was me. Get your old car back. Once you start pulling the motor apart, it could be way more $$$ than you think. And a measely $1k wont go far

ScottyDsntKnow · May 12, 2016

I'd have told him I wanted my car back immediately. 2 things you did wrong right off the bat, you didn't bring your own mechanic and it sounds like you went full trade value on a car that wasn't running right. You can ask a zillion questions, dude can tell you whatever he wants and that mechanic I bet was a friend or he was paying him off or something along those lines. I'm not trying to be an ass by saying this, I know it sucks for you... but sadly you can't trust anyone with this sort of stuff.

I'd just give him an ultimatum and see if you might have any recourse in small claims court. Yes this guy is stringing you along, he's trying to either make you just give up without a confrontation or put enough time from the transaction that any legal action you could take will be more difficult.

However... if you both already have the titles changed over/signed and you don't have any sort of notarized document saying that the deal is contingent on the cars checking out... you're screwed. Sadly this will probably be an expensive life lesson. You'd likely spend more money trying to get $$$ from this guy than just having the bottom end rebuilt.

Freefallin · May 13, 2016

ScottyDsntKnow said:
I'd have told him I wanted my car back immediately. 2 things you did wrong right off the bat, you didn't bring your own mechanic and it sounds like you went full trade value on a car that wasn't running right. You can ask a zillion questions, dude can tell you whatever he wants and that mechanic I bet was a friend or he was paying him off or something along those lines. I'm not trying to be an ass by saying this, I know it sucks for you... but sadly you can't trust anyone with this sort of stuff.

I'd just give him an ultimatum and see if you might have any recourse in small claims court. Yes this guy is stringing you along, he's trying to either make you just give up without a confrontation or put enough time from the transaction that any legal action you could take will be more difficult.

However... if you both already have the titles changed over/signed and you don't have any sort of notarized document saying that the deal is contingent on the cars checking out... you're screwed. Sadly this will probably be an expensive life lesson. You'd likely spend more money trying to get $$$ from this guy than just having the bottom end rebuilt.

I thought about court, but not gonna happen. I actually got the better value on the trade, regardless if the car needed tuning. I could probably part it out for what I had into my other car, but I really like it and want to learn how to remove the motor and what not. I understand he's stringing my along, but I don't think he would have gave me my car back. Probably going to call him Monday with that ultimatum, however. Either he gives me the $1k he promised or he gives me my car back.

Sean

Freefallin · May 13, 2016

Regarding removing the engine...putting together a list of tools i'll need.
-10mm ratcheting wrench for AC condenser (I think?)
-Fuel line removal tools - Are these the correct ones? http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...line-and-a-c-quick-disconnect-tool-97576.html
-Super long 3/8" extension for motor mount and h pipe bolts (right?)

Going to borrow a buddies cherry picker with load leveler and another buddies engine stand. I've read up a ton lately but cant seem to find any good step by step write ups. Closest thing I can find are the below videos. Are these pretty sufficient?

Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7BPt74c3WU

Part 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uw_UvDLSBP4

Freefallin · May 13, 2016

This kit from ModMax doesnt seem too bad for the cost: http://www.modmaxracing.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=99025146

Looks like if I were to piece together a forged rotating assembly minus the crank, I would be looking at equal money or a bit more money compared to the above linked kit. They offer H Beams and Manley pistons for more money, but is it work it or will the I beams and Keith Black dished tops serve me OK?

Sean

ScottyDsntKnow · May 13, 2016

I just start unbolting stuff. You'll need a 1/2" universal and shallow socket for the passenger collector, 3/8 shallow isn't deep enough and a 3/8" deepwell doesn't fit in the spot. Condenser doesn't have to come out... PS pump is tricky but comes out as one unit and you do not have to pull the pulley. All the vac hoses and wires etc... can be a PITA, label all bolts, parts bags are a good thing. Pull the engine and trans as one unit and remove the hood, I always do it this way. Makes mating the trans to the engine stupid easy and good time to do clutch/flywheel too.

Good call on the load leveler, I dunno how the hell ppl do pulls without one. Have a helper to two with you, don't try to do it yourself. Don't force anything and triple check everything is unhooked.

Freefallin · May 14, 2016

Thanks Scotty. Got pretty far today. Intake mani removed, all radiator hoses, injectors, throttle linkake, what I believe is all of the wiring but I bet I missed something, exhaust is off, blower assembly, alternator, plugs and plug wires, and I click be kissing some stuff but I think I'm pretty close to being able to yank it.

Scotty, you say I don't need to unbolt the ac condenser? I believe I still need to remove the PS assembly (do the bolt under the line last for removal and first for install correct?) Should I remove shifter and just take trans with me? I know I'm supposed to do something with a dust shield on the trans so I can remove some kind of a throttle cable by pushing on a shift fork? Can someone pleas help me understand this step? Oh, and where are you guys placing the chain bolts for the cherry picker? What size and grade bolts do I need? Any tips or tricks for removal? Tries is a stupid one, but what is tr best method to take the trans off from the engine once it's on the picker? Meaning can the trans rest on the ground while hanging from the engine when its on the picker?

Sean

96blak54 · May 15, 2016

8mm bolt where the alt bolts to and a 10mm trans bolt.

Take a prybar to actuate the clutch fork manually and slip the cable out. Then remove the retaining clip on the clutch cable located a few inches down from the fork. Then slip out the cable. Replace clip back onto cable.

Sorry about your situation dude! Hopefully this build will inspire the hobby youve been seeking. Someone is always here, so just ask.

Freefallin · May 15, 2016

96blak54 said:
8mm bolt where the alt bolts to and a 10mm trans bolt.

Take a prybar to actuate the clutch fork manually and slip the cable out. Then remove the retaining clip on the clutch cable located a few inches down from the fork. Then slip out the cable. Replace clip back onto cable.

Sorry about your situation dude! Hopefully this build will inspire the hobby youve been seeking. Someone is always here, so just ask.

How do I access this clutch fork? I know it's in through some kind of dust cover by whee is that and what exactly am I looking for to compress? I mean I know it will be a fork but will it be obvious? And thanks man, I'm pretty sure I'm gettin stringed along so lesson learned. Only problem is I gots figure out s way to raise $2,500+

Sean

ScottyDsntKnow · May 15, 2016

Its obvious, its on the bottom left of the bellhousing. One bolt to remove it and its pretty self explanatory after that. I am not removing the condenser on my pull and didn't on my pushrods either. Trans should come out with the motor, at least IMO. With a load leveler its easy and no having to support anything or be stuck trying to get the goddamn thing attached back up after the new motor goes in. Doing it while its all out of the car is easy.

Attach points for a load leveler are the 2 alternator bolt points on the block and then the 2 bolt holes on the back of the heads where they meet the block. Use the intake manifold bolts, they thread right in and are plenty strong enough.

As far as raising $2500... If you are going to do a build to support more than the stock PI engine will take you'll need a lot more than that. Again, I'd find an 04-up 2V out of a Vic/Marquis/Towncar and just swap it in. Cheap, effective, you can find them with low mileage and it'll get you back on the road quick.

Freefallin · May 15, 2016

Can you expand on the cheaper ways to build this? You thinking an all stock rebuild? I have been looking at complete running 4.6 motors on MPS auto salvage but you never know with uses motors and boost. I only want to do this 1 time. But what I could d is do a stock rebuild and drop boost way back down to like 7 lbs so I don't break anything on the new stock rebuild. Please enlighten me on other more cost-friendly options.

Sean

ScottyDsntKnow · May 15, 2016

I was just looking on car-part.com for giggles at 2V motors around me. Found one with 42k on it for $425. Dunno why you would not go this route. Get it in, get it running and then tow it to your tuner. Have that person set the power to around 400 to the wheels and it'll live a long life provided you don't do anything stupid. The old motor likely blew up because the previous owner was a moron TBTH. If all you need to do is get a good motor in there... yeah stock motor swap.

I forget your location and don't know what prices are like around you but if you give me your zip I could bang around car-part and maybe link you to something.

Freefallin · May 15, 2016

ScottyDsntKnow said:
I was just looking on car-part.com for giggles at 2V motors around me. Found one with 42k on it for $425. Dunno why you would not go this route. Get it in, get it running and then tow it to your tuner. Have that person set the power to around 400 to the wheels and it'll live a long life provided you don't do anything stupid. The old motor likely blew up because the previous owner was a moron TBTH. If all you need to do is get a good motor in there... yeah stock motor swap.

I forget your location and don't know what prices are like around you but if you give me your zip I could bang around car-part and maybe link you to something.

Im glad you said something about a replacement motor. If I could get one for $509 or less, I would totally do that. I cousin throw my PI head swap on also, along with the original 6 rib pulley to drop boost down to 6bs. May be able to get out for around $1200 with tuning, motor and $40 labor my ford buddy charges me.

Zip is 97219. Portland, OR. Thanks for giving a helping hand.

Sean

96blak54 · May 15, 2016

Yea, ...what scottydsntknow... actually does know! He makes a good point! Find a newer 04-up 2v
and swap it in. Let tuner set levels to 400rwhp and roll wit it!