Bottom end is toast - Need Guidance

lwarrior1016

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I will link all this from ebay just because its easier.

Main studs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Ford-Mo...ash=item4ad4e1640e:g:Gf4AAOxyuR5TaHQq&vxp=mtr

Head studs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-HEAD-ST...ash=item2cac3e552d:g:jWUAAOSwYmZXMOXO&vxp=mtr

Clevite main bearings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clevite-77-...ash=item2eeaa15192:g:NdcAAOSwpRRWmnJD&vxp=mtr

Clevite rod bearings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-6-4-...ash=item2c6756ef43:g:0soAAOxydB1Sh-3m&vxp=mtr

A master seal and gasket kit will be needed. No need for header bolts, the stock stuff will work fine. As far as bottom end, this should do it.
 
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Freefallin

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I will link all this from ebay just because its easier.

Main studs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Ford-Mo...ash=item4ad4e1640e:g:Gf4AAOxyuR5TaHQq&vxp=mtr

Head studs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-HEAD-ST...ash=item2cac3e552d:g:jWUAAOSwYmZXMOXO&vxp=mtr

Clevite main bearings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clevite-77-...ash=item2eeaa15192:g:NdcAAOSwpRRWmnJD&vxp=mtr

Clevite rod bearings
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-6-4-...ash=item2c6756ef43:g:0soAAOxydB1Sh-3m&vxp=mtr

A master seal and gasket kit will be needed. No need for header bolts, the stock stuff will work fine. As far as bottom end, this should do it.


You're the man (name?)!! My header bolts looks super rusted, so not sure if those would be a good idea or not?

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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Just noticed the ARP heads studs are $278....are these a must or can I get away with what I currently have? The top end "was" rebuilt no more than 2 years ago...who know, maybe if already has ARP head studs? That's a huge chunk of my budget build!

Sean
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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If it already has ARP stuff in there you can re-use it. If not you have to either buy new stock stuff or if you want to do it right... yeah you need to spend that.

I'd still be getting a whole pullout if I were you...

Also for what you are doing, meth an the intercooler is total overkill and I personally don't like meth. Just one more thing to worry about and one more thing to go wrong.

The CX racing kit is good but the intercooler is a cork. Either call them and get the intercooler upgraded to the 4" core unit or just get the tubing minus the intercooler and get a Treadstone intercooler. I got CX to send me a 4" intercooler and I'm installing the same kit.

Blow thru... you'll want a slot MAF, that'll be $200 plus whatever it costs to have an exhaust shop weld the flange into the intake tubing.

Really does depend on what your budget is. If you have $2500... $600 for the 4" core CX unit, $700 for that motor, $200 for a MAF, $600 for a good tune. That's almost your entire $2500 right there. You don't have the $$$ for machine work and forged parts TBTH...
 

lwarrior1016

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You're the man (name?)!! My header bolts looks super rusted, so not sure if those would be a good idea or not?

Sean

William is the name, lol. As long as the nut come off and dont break the studs, you should be ok. The head studs, well Scotty nailed it. See if you might have them already and if you do, reuse them. If not, itll be something to look at. I wont put my engines together without them.
 
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Freefallin

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If it already has ARP stuff in there you can re-use it. If not you have to either buy new stock stuff or if you want to do it right... yeah you need to spend that.

I'd still be getting a whole pullout if I were you...

Also for what you are doing, meth an the intercooler is total overkill and I personally don't like meth. Just one more thing to worry about and one more thing to go wrong.

The CX racing kit is good but the intercooler is a cork. Either call them and get the intercooler upgraded to the 4" core unit or just get the tubing minus the intercooler and get a Treadstone intercooler. I got CX to send me a 4" intercooler and I'm installing the same kit.

Blow thru... you'll want a slot MAF, that'll be $200 plus whatever it costs to have an exhaust shop weld the flange into the intake tubing.

Really does depend on what your budget is. If you have $2500... $600 for the 4" core CX unit, $700 for that motor, $200 for a MAF, $600 for a good tune. That's almost your entire $2500 right there. You don't have the $$$ for machine work and forged parts TBTH...

This is probably exactly the route I will do if everything works out as planned. If the funds arent there, I will just go with my draw thru setup for now and/or not go IC and just spray meth. Since I already have Meth, I would assume the Blow-Thru setup would be what I should do first irregardless?

Any negative effects of running Meth and IC?

Which model slot MAF do you recommend sir?

You running the BOV it comes with? If so, where are you mounting it? Any cutting or anything with the 4 Core kit?

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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William is the name, lol. As long as the nut come off and dont break the studs, you should be ok. The head studs, well Scotty nailed it. See if you might have them already and if you do, reuse them. If not, itll be something to look at. I wont put my engines together without them.

Nice to meet you William. So nice to have a solid group here that actually gives advice versus trolling like so many other forums (we won't mention names). I will check out the head studs when I pull them. Will I be able to tell if they are ARP do you know? Sounds like good main and head studs are super important but should I worry about studs or a gasket kit if I am doing a drop in motor?

Sean
 

lwarrior1016

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Is something like this master gasket set complete overkill? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-260-1689/overview/make/ford

Just trying to only do what I need but at the same time won't skimp on anything important.

Sean

If you are doing a drop in engine, then I would do just that. Drop in a completely stock engine and enjoy the car, but drive it easy. Meanwhile, rebuild/build your current engine so that when its ready you will be able to drop it in there and have a bunch of fun. Thats just the way I would do things. That gasket kit looks to be pretty well complete. You can find better deals on them if you shop around. I use ebay for a lot of things.
 
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Freefallin

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If you are doing a drop in engine, then I would do just that. Drop in a completely stock engine and enjoy the car, but drive it easy. Meanwhile, rebuild/build your current engine so that when its ready you will be able to drop it in there and have a bunch of fun. Thats just the way I would do things. That gasket kit looks to be pretty well complete. You can find better deals on them if you shop around. I use ebay for a lot of things.

I love where you heads at my man! Good call :)

Sean
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Is there cutting with an intercooler... Lolololol. Mr Crash bar say hello to Mr Sawzall
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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The 3" CX Racing cooler requires you cut a good chunk out of your crash bar to mount the intercooler. The 4" or any legit size intercooler for a 4.6L means you basically mount your crash bar on the car, put the intercooler up against it, mark it and then cut out the entire middle of it. Use the supplied lower mounting brackets and hold the top in with L brackets.


3"
100_1301.JPG


For the 4" you have to cut the entire middle out of the crash bar like I said.


The good news is that the crash bar is a bolt on part and they aren't hard to get or expensive if you ever wanted to go back to stock.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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If you are doing a drop in engine, then I would do just that. Drop in a completely stock engine and enjoy the car, but drive it easy. Meanwhile, rebuild/build your current engine so that when its ready you will be able to drop it in there and have a bunch of fun. Thats just the way I would do things. That gasket kit looks to be pretty well complete. You can find better deals on them if you shop around. I use ebay for a lot of things.

Don't need to drive it easy. A properly tuned stock 4.6L at about 400-425rwhp you can beat the snot out of it and it'll live a happy life. Its all in the tune. You can grenade a bolt on motor with a bad tune. Which I am assuming was on Freefallin's car with the IAC removed and the shop saying it just needed a better tune...

Also probably the same thing that blew the original motor in my car although i bought it like that and paid appropriately. The previous owner was the one who got scammed and was dumping it on CL.
 

lwarrior1016

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I know that a stock engine will hold those power levels but why take the chance? If budget is anywhere in the question then I don't believe it should be risked. This is just my way of thinking, I like to be safe and overbuild things and that's probably why my car isn't done yet lol.
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Eh... tune it right and it'll hold. Or overbuild for a lot more $$$. I'm overbuilding myself but I have a blower that'll do 26 psi and a 34k mile numbered car that will not ever be a DD... If I wanted it right back on the road right away it'd be a Panther motor with low mileage and just get it running.
 
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Freefallin

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CX Racings is a biatch to try to navigate. I think I found the IC Kit you have Scotty for $599 correct? I would be fine cutting that portion out pending you supply me with the what cutting tool I should use! I have the lowest grade HF sawzall and a Dremel Tool so I doubt that will cut it (pun intended).

What slot style MAF are you guys liking? Oh, and I figured out my injectors are 46lb so I should be able to deliver plenty of fuel tight? I should have a pretty sweet little mod motor with the PI heads and comp stage 1 blower cams, Intercooled S Trim with the right fueling.

Sean
 
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Freefallin

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Link? Is their BOV garbage? I know it's kind of stupid to purchase a BOV off of pure sound, but I do want it so sound nice, louder the better. Any recommendations? Anyone have and sound clips they can throw up up their BOV setup?

Sean
 

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