Breaking Loose Head Bolts: To use or not to use?

some things I read on google people were saying not to use a deep wall socket but I don't see how you can get around it because using just a standard socket, for me the breaker bar and pipe is resting near the studs or the side of the head and i am positioned to where i have good enough leverage to break it loose. Using a regular socket will indeed be a task and so I am not going to mess with it anymore tonite but in the morning I will be back at it so what is you guy's position on having had used a deep wall before to break the bolts loose? And basically I'm talking about the lower head bolts but there are some inside the heads as well thats cutting it close to hitting the studs using a regular socket.

Also had to use a dawgone 4 ft piece of pipe to get good leverage standing outside of the car. Using a short pipe would be dreadful on the back........SMH

Also, does the power steering pump pulley have to be pulled off with a puller? After getting that off there are a few more bolts right behind the pulley that has to come off before moving the PW pump out of the way?

 

do u know rather the pulley has to be pulled off

 

whats the torque specs for TF aluminum heads?

when u say buy new, what are u referring to?

and from another forum guys said the pulley doesnt have to come off and to just unbolt the three bolts holding the bracket to the head so i will see how that works. i do want to paint the power steering pulley though so might end up taking it off and might be easier to take it off while the bracket is still bolted to head so will inspect to see rather I can tell which way will be easier

 

yeah i want to paint it so i need to get the pulley out of the engine bay so if removing it leaving it on the bracket will get it ALL out of the engine bay then i leave the pulley on. I am about to go mess with the car for a few hrs before the game comes on but my first order is getting off the pass side head which that is where the spring broke so i will get to the d side head tommorow.

It cant be no harder than the harmonic balancer right lol?

What do you guys think about painting the headers with the highest quality and best paint? Others say on other forums it will still burn off no matter what

 

im guessing to send a file i need to use something like tiny pic so i can get the url?

i dont see a manage attachments tab

 

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And my question is with no cracks in that piston, would just sanding the scratch/scuffs with scotchbrite or sandpaper lightly be sufficient?

can I check the rings by pouring oil in the cylinder walls and seeing how fast it takes to leak down? I thought someone mentioned that before lol

 

oh trust me thats one thing i have learned over the years and it worked out fine. Got all bolts off the pass side head with success with the exception of the far bolt near windshield where the heater core hoses were in the way and didnt think they would stop the bar from moving smoothly but it ended up stripping the corners of the bolt some so im sure i will need to get one new bolt. I have ARP's that i bought back in 05 and they look fine. I will also just next time move EVERYTHING out of the way including those heater hoses. Everything else by the way was out of the way though

 

On the head well actually on the block itself I believe the old gasket all came off with the head and basically it looks like there really ain't any gasket material on the block itself but the coloration of the gasket is still there of course so should I basically do like I do when I clean the bottom of the intake and block for the intake gaskets just use a razor blade and get as much as I can off or whatever and then use like a scotch brite pad too lightly get the surfaces

 

Do any of you guys know if when i loosen the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump bracket, will that pull off the entire bracket? I know it will pull the pulley off with it but i wanted to paint the pulley so was wondering if loosening those 3 bolts would allow me to remove the entire bracket from under the hood

 

forgot i havent put pics up here because i have to go thru tiny pic first but first chance i get i will

Ok guys I just sent some pics to this guy I have been talking to from Texas. He seems to be real knowledgeable and I can tell from talking to him on the phone several times and for an extended time, he seems to be the type that's pretty much a stickler if that's the correct word, he seems to know what he's talking about. So here are his thoughts on getting the heads fixed. I will copy and paste them thru my fone cause it will be easier so i just want to see what you guys will think, and opinions further:

cleaning the heads up and bolting on that oil coked short block is Not gonna happen, man. That short block has to come out. The hone is coked with microscopic oil, so ring seal AND oil control is done bc once a hone is coked, it's pores are seal shut with burned oil. The only way that cleans up is with a fresh hone and rings. Besides that, it's not gonna make any power until you solve the coked hone. ;-)

Bc ring seal is done, as a result.

To anyone who will say to you that what I said is not the case, all I can say is this: After you put the heads back on, take a look at a leak down gauge and after having done so, tell me it isn't the case. LOL

 

Yeah I have learned over the years that it's all about leverage...leverage.....leverage . I actually got them all of fine with the exception of one bolt, the one back near heater core hoses that i eventually took one of the hoses. The bolt came off fine but just rounded some of the corner of the bolt off and it might even be fine to re-use but will get opinions on it and if i use it it will be placed at the first bolt hole. They are ARP bolts by the way

when i do work i make sure i will be in the correct posture position so i will be able to get good leverage and always hold the socket on the bolt to make sure I have it on there nice and straight on the bolt before attempting to break