Head bolts are torque-to-yield fasteners. Don't re-use them, unless of course, you like tearing things apart a second time.
Breaking Loose Head Bolts: To use or not to use?
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Head bolts are torque-to-yield fasteners. Don't re-use them, unless of course, you like tearing things apart a second time.
Head bolts are torque-to-yield fasteners. Don't re-use them, unless of course, you like tearing things apart a second time.
everyone has said that's so for regular head bolts but not the ARPs
Sorry, I must have missed where you said they were ARP... It's too early and I haven't had my caffeine yet today.
Yeah, you can re-use those.
cool. Another question I have. Can you yourself look at a block and tell rather the hone is coked? I need a few more opinions on mine after a spring broke and slightly bent valve
is the one on the right coked?
Correct.
i guess I'm a noob in this area of what coked even is I khow it means something isn't right and the engine won't have the proper compression?????
help me understand why since one of mine looks similiar to that but mainly near the top of the wall theres an amber ring, i think its only at the very top. But help me understand in my case the importance of not just fixing my heads and putting back together would be good? I wanted to wait a little longer and plan my build. I almost dont want to get an hone with new rings and rod bolts as suggested by one guy, dont really wana do that as a 302 right now but not sure i want to do a 331 yet or even do a 331 so i want to get it running but at the same time want to take more time to plan what I really wana do as far as build.
What people call "coke" on there is essentially engine oil buildup that's caused the cylinder wall to become smooth, almost like glass. You see on the honed cylinder, the crosshatch pattern. The hones retain oil on the cylinder walls, which is necessary to seal the rings.
ok and coking doesnt allow it to retain oil?
rz5.0
Legend
Why would you listen to a guy from Texas..:what:
lol he has really helped me alot man and i have gathered he is a pretty detailed guy but i wanted to get more opinions and from a good mechanic here who is also detailed on his thoughts
jerry came by here and looked at my cylinder walls and said man I am fine. When my car was together, I did per the advice of Shaun, put some laquer thinner in the no. 2 sp hole as that was the cylinder that had low compression ( or maybe not as the tester may have been somewhat faulty). We just wanted to try and see if the valve wasnt seating properly and wanted to clean out that cylinder. That is why in the pics below you will see that one piston is clean, with a brownish look while the others are not. So that brown coloration on the piston actually makes the walls appear brownish some in the images but looking at in person only brown thing i see is the ridge at very top of piston. Actually a spring had broke, on no. 2 and slightly bent the valve thats why u see the slight scuff marks but no cracks or anything
rz5.0
Legend
It was a joke. I live in Texas..
cool. Are u knowledgeable about my cylinder wall situaton and if so what are your thoughts
rz5.0
Legend
I haven't at your pics
rz5.0
Legend
What was the problem to begin with?
one day after getting gas from a questionable station i thought i had actually gotten bad gas as the car started missing and had loss of power. I did everything in the book, changed stuff , tried stuff and last day i drove it about 3 wks ago i started hearing ticking noises in the valve cover area, pulled the pass side valve cover that i gotten questionable numbers from a compression test on no. 2, and saw the broken spring and rocker was turned somewhat sideways
rz5.0
Legend
Have you had your heads checked out yet??
From the pics cylinders look normal to me.
From the pics cylinders look normal to me.
