joemomma
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Looking good man! Also, that may be the cleanest garage I've ever seen.
Bright Blue 94 Mustang GT
- Thread starter Chenn2389
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Chenn2389
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LOL thanks man, everyone says that the first time they see it. I pulled out all the built in shelving and had the floors amorkoted. They turned out awesome and never stain.
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Chenn2389
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5/8/21
I got the clutch, transmission, drive shaft, exhaust on today. I put the valve covers on and they cleared the rollers. I got all the externals done and the harness plugged in. Unfortunately found out the fill tube on new covers hits the throttle body, and my stock cover don't clear the rollers. Pretty much stuck and screwed until I figure out a solution. Should be able to fire it up once I find covers.
I ordered a McLeod clutch fork, but it was too short. I guess the 94/95 is a different length. Not a big deal just used the new pilot and throw out and cleaned up my original one. Took the NVH weight off the end.
If anyone knows of some new aftermarket covers that work let me know please. Only ones I can think of are the short trick flows, but I would have to cut and weld up my own fill tube not too excited about it.
Also, the canton t-pan my engine builder chose hits the clutch cable tube. It doesn’t keep it from working, but I had to force the plastic end back into the bell housing.
I got the clutch, transmission, drive shaft, exhaust on today. I put the valve covers on and they cleared the rollers. I got all the externals done and the harness plugged in. Unfortunately found out the fill tube on new covers hits the throttle body, and my stock cover don't clear the rollers. Pretty much stuck and screwed until I figure out a solution. Should be able to fire it up once I find covers.
I ordered a McLeod clutch fork, but it was too short. I guess the 94/95 is a different length. Not a big deal just used the new pilot and throw out and cleaned up my original one. Took the NVH weight off the end.
If anyone knows of some new aftermarket covers that work let me know please. Only ones I can think of are the short trick flows, but I would have to cut and weld up my own fill tube not too excited about it.
Also, the canton t-pan my engine builder chose hits the clutch cable tube. It doesn’t keep it from working, but I had to force the plastic end back into the bell housing.
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Chenn2389
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5/9/21
I got the shifter in and the clutch quadrant adjusted. I also reprogrammed my Dakota Digital fan controller and tested them out. I just need the valve covers to show up and I can start it up as long as I don’t need an intake spacer.
I ordered the trick flow short valve covers that usually come in their EFI top end kit. They should work and have clearance since I am using their intake and I can drill the oil tube in a location that clears everything.
It’s so close to being ready. These little clearance issues are annoying as hell. Ford sucks for changing all these random things for just a 2 year run.
I got the shifter in and the clutch quadrant adjusted. I also reprogrammed my Dakota Digital fan controller and tested them out. I just need the valve covers to show up and I can start it up as long as I don’t need an intake spacer.
I ordered the trick flow short valve covers that usually come in their EFI top end kit. They should work and have clearance since I am using their intake and I can drill the oil tube in a location that clears everything.
It’s so close to being ready. These little clearance issues are annoying as hell. Ford sucks for changing all these random things for just a 2 year run.
joemomma
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What trans/shifter is that? I like the looks of that handle. My Hurst basically just barely clears the dash - I have to kind of grab it from the side to get a good grip on it.
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Chenn2389
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Its the Ford Racing spec Hurst short throw shifter on a T5 world class. It has the self centering and bump stops typical to a Hurst shifter. The handle is angled well and I have no interference issues at all. It's a smidge taller and slightly further back than the stock shifter it defiantly put it in a great location so you don't feel like your stretching to grab it. If I were to guess, the original Hurst shifter was designed for the T5 for the fox cars. This one is fit for a T5 or a T45 which the T45 was introduced to the SN95 so the handle may have been changed slightly for the interference. FMS-M-7210-M.
ttocs
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I had the same problem with my hurst, if I were to slam in 1/3/5 I would hit my knuckles on the dash. I have seen people make a cut or two on the back of the handle and then bend it back and weld it back into place or replace it with a pro 5.0 handle.
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Chenn2389
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I heard of some people flipping the chrome handle 180* to get it to clear the dash.
joemomma
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Yeah, if I'm really getting after 3rd, I have to kind of open-hand it from the back and just push. Otherwise, I'm smashing the Alpine lol. I may look into modifying the handle somehow. I don't really want to buy a new handle since I just bought a replacement Hurst ball, and like the looks of it.
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Chenn2389
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5/13/21My trick flow covers came in and I mocked them up. They clear the rockers great and the intake clears them with no spacer. Even the egr bracket clears them on the stupid sn95 throttle body adapter. It’s nice too I can put the filler neck where ever I can fit it. I’ll hopefully have them on and finish everything up tonight and possibly first start tomorrow.
That engine bay be clean lookin! Definitely going in the right direction
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Chenn2389
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5/16/21Everything is buttoned up and filled up with fluids. I primed the engine and set the initial timing so it’s all ready to start. No issues with hood clearances. My new BBK cold air intake was missing the blue couplings, and the BBK MAF was missing the 6 pin to 4 pin adapter. BBK is sending it out and as soon as it comes I’ll be able to fire her up.
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Chenn2389
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5/23/2021
I got the engine fired up. Found out the crossover tube for the fuels rails was cracked under the rubber on the front. Replaced that with some new hose. I set the timing to 10 degrees for break in and did the idle reset procedure. Drove it up and down the street and then checked for leaks. I fixed the fuel leaks and the coolant leak at the heater crossover tube. Took it out around the block but it was running hot, burped the radiator drained out a gallon of coolant and just put in distilled water, now it runs ice cold. I drove it about 110 miles mostly city driving to seat the rings. When I push in the clutch to coast to a stop light it would hang at 1500 rpms until I came to a stop then it would attempt to drop down to idle speed fluctuate a bit then usually stall. I put in some fresh gas and reset the idle again and it helped it stop stalling but RPMs still hung high with clutch in and rolling after about 20 minutes it started stalling again. All my vacuum lines are new, I double checked everything. I checked the torque on all the intake mates. I tried to take off the IAC and used gasket maker on both sides of gasket and thread sealer on the bolts. Now when I start it revs high then comes down, idles for about a minute then starts fluctuating and stalls. Not sure what’s going on now but I am stumped. I’m guessing the IAC is shit.
I also noticed some clutch chatter on my last drive. Oil coming out of the bell housing and all over the trans and crossover. I put a stripe of blue lock tight on the flywheel bolts, maybe not enough and that’s possibly leaking. I hope it’s not the rear main or freeze plug or oil galley caps behind the fly wheel. It doesn’t appears to be oil pan. I checked the black of the intake, heads, and torqued the valve covers while it was warm to rule that out. I’m gonna stop by the shop that built my engine and have them take a look. I can’t find the leak laying in my back. If it’s the rear main I hope they take care of it. Not really too excited to have to drops trans.
Here is a video. This is after I seat the rings and did the base idle reset. She’s chopping pretty good. Don’t mind that it’s dirty is sat for almost 9 months. I washed and waxed it up nice this morning.
let me know if you go any ideas about the idling and stalling issue.
I got the engine fired up. Found out the crossover tube for the fuels rails was cracked under the rubber on the front. Replaced that with some new hose. I set the timing to 10 degrees for break in and did the idle reset procedure. Drove it up and down the street and then checked for leaks. I fixed the fuel leaks and the coolant leak at the heater crossover tube. Took it out around the block but it was running hot, burped the radiator drained out a gallon of coolant and just put in distilled water, now it runs ice cold. I drove it about 110 miles mostly city driving to seat the rings. When I push in the clutch to coast to a stop light it would hang at 1500 rpms until I came to a stop then it would attempt to drop down to idle speed fluctuate a bit then usually stall. I put in some fresh gas and reset the idle again and it helped it stop stalling but RPMs still hung high with clutch in and rolling after about 20 minutes it started stalling again. All my vacuum lines are new, I double checked everything. I checked the torque on all the intake mates. I tried to take off the IAC and used gasket maker on both sides of gasket and thread sealer on the bolts. Now when I start it revs high then comes down, idles for about a minute then starts fluctuating and stalls. Not sure what’s going on now but I am stumped. I’m guessing the IAC is shit.
I also noticed some clutch chatter on my last drive. Oil coming out of the bell housing and all over the trans and crossover. I put a stripe of blue lock tight on the flywheel bolts, maybe not enough and that’s possibly leaking. I hope it’s not the rear main or freeze plug or oil galley caps behind the fly wheel. It doesn’t appears to be oil pan. I checked the black of the intake, heads, and torqued the valve covers while it was warm to rule that out. I’m gonna stop by the shop that built my engine and have them take a look. I can’t find the leak laying in my back. If it’s the rear main I hope they take care of it. Not really too excited to have to drops trans.
Here is a video. This is after I seat the rings and did the base idle reset. She’s chopping pretty good. Don’t mind that it’s dirty is sat for almost 9 months. I washed and waxed it up nice this morning.
let me know if you go any ideas about the idling and stalling issue.
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Chenn2389
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5/26/2021
I got the car to idle better and not stall at stop lights. The flat head screw on the throttle body was backed out too far. I bottomed it and used the allen threaded rod to set the base idle. Then did the idle reset procedure. The RPMs still hang when I push the clutch in while coasting between 1200-1600 depending on what gear I was in. As soon as I come to a stop it drops down to where my mechanical idle was set then the IAC kicks on and fluctuates before it raises the rpm a bit around 800 rpm. I ordered a new IAC and I have a bunch of spare gaskets. Hopefully that helps the fast idle drop down around 1000 rpm instead of 1600. Its pretty loud coasting up to a stop light around 1600 rpms before the car drops down. I really want to figure this out. I spoke to Ted Jenkins that burnt my chip, the EEC-IV is calibrated to have a fast idle while the car is rolling and our modified engines will accentuate any vacuum leaks or a worn IAC and have it hang. I double checked all my gaskets and vacuum lines I am praying the IAC takes care of it.
Engine is still leaking from rear main or the flywheel bolts. Engine builder is trying to get one of his friends with a lift to throw my car on to rule anything else out before I drop trans again. I used ARP bolts and their thread lube and blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts per the directions. Not sure why it would leak when they're torqued properly even without the Loctite. Life is pain lol.
I got the car to idle better and not stall at stop lights. The flat head screw on the throttle body was backed out too far. I bottomed it and used the allen threaded rod to set the base idle. Then did the idle reset procedure. The RPMs still hang when I push the clutch in while coasting between 1200-1600 depending on what gear I was in. As soon as I come to a stop it drops down to where my mechanical idle was set then the IAC kicks on and fluctuates before it raises the rpm a bit around 800 rpm. I ordered a new IAC and I have a bunch of spare gaskets. Hopefully that helps the fast idle drop down around 1000 rpm instead of 1600. Its pretty loud coasting up to a stop light around 1600 rpms before the car drops down. I really want to figure this out. I spoke to Ted Jenkins that burnt my chip, the EEC-IV is calibrated to have a fast idle while the car is rolling and our modified engines will accentuate any vacuum leaks or a worn IAC and have it hang. I double checked all my gaskets and vacuum lines I am praying the IAC takes care of it.
Engine is still leaking from rear main or the flywheel bolts. Engine builder is trying to get one of his friends with a lift to throw my car on to rule anything else out before I drop trans again. I used ARP bolts and their thread lube and blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts per the directions. Not sure why it would leak when they're torqued properly even without the Loctite. Life is pain lol.
ttocs
Post Whore
it sounds like the hanging idle is in the tune. If your ecu works like my holley does you program what %open(I think mine is at 35%) you want the IAC to stay at and then there is a decay rate that once the rpms get down below a certain point, then it starts closing to the 4-5% that it should be open when at idle.
Now if you have not already done a smoke check to look for vac leaks this is the time to go get a cigar.
Now if you have not already done a smoke check to look for vac leaks this is the time to go get a cigar.
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Chenn2389
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I figured it could be tuned out, but based of his response it’s a fixed setting on the stock computer. I’ll see what the new IAC can do, if no change then maybe once I fix my rear main seal or flywheel bolts that are leaking I’ll cruise over to Arizona Dyno Chip and see if they can do it. Plus we can mess with timing and fuel pressure while we’re at it.
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Chenn2389
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Fresh Wash and Wax. Drove it to work this morning. Its running well besides the weird hung idle. 
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Chenn2389
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5/28/21
Pulled the trans to see if it was rear seal, oil pan, or flywheel bolts leaking out the bell housing. Turns out it was the flywheel bolts. I originally used blue loctite. Apparently not good enough. Going to throw on blue PFTE thread sealer this time. I have trans back in. I will throw drive shaft and exhaust back on Sunday. The pan, rear intake manifold, rear main cap all have gasket maker in the right spots so I’m not gonna touch it.
Pulled the trans to see if it was rear seal, oil pan, or flywheel bolts leaking out the bell housing. Turns out it was the flywheel bolts. I originally used blue loctite. Apparently not good enough. Going to throw on blue PFTE thread sealer this time. I have trans back in. I will throw drive shaft and exhaust back on Sunday. The pan, rear intake manifold, rear main cap all have gasket maker in the right spots so I’m not gonna touch it.
joemomma
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Car is looking great! My idle hangs like that, mostly between shifts. I've cleaned the TB, MAF, and IAC and done the base idle reset a few times, but it still happens. I should check the screws on the TB. I don't think I've ever looked or touched them honestly. The only thing I've touched was the threaded rod, which is just a throttle stop and the wrong way to fix idle from my understanding after having read more.
