Bright Blue 94 Mustang GT

Chenn2389

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did you get a good quality brand name HO alt or just an ebay no-name special? I got the no-name special probably 15 years ago and it lasted all of 5 months for me before the regulator crapped out. I took it in for repair and the guy said that the actual internals of the alt were upgraded/HO but the regulator they used was not just junk but cheap JUNK as he put it.
I got a powermaster performance street alternator from summit. Not sure if it’s crap or not. Might just say screw it and get a PA Performance alternator.
 

ttocs

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I would do like I did out there and find a local alternator shop and have them go through it and see what they say. its been a few years but I thought it was off of chandler blvd....
 

RacerX

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I got a powermaster performance street alternator from summit. Not sure if it’s crap or not. Might just say screw it and get a PA Performance alternator.
Powermaster is a pretty big brand that's been around forever. Have used their alternators in every car I've owned with no issues. I'm sure Powermaster and/or Summit will make it right if that alternator has any issues.

Anyways, clean car man. Looks like a lot of fun.
 

joemomma

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That sounds good man! I may have missed it but where did you get the engine, or did you build it yourself?
 

Chenn2389

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That sounds good man! I may have missed it but where did you get the engine, or did you build it yourself?
I had Ray Basko build it from Basko Race Engines in Gilbert Arizona. It’s my original 302 built to 331 stroker with trickflow stage 2 top end. He came highly recommended from everyone in the valley. 7 month lead time though. Unfortunately had 3 bad rear main seals, and a bad lower intake gasket. He stood by his work and took care of them with no extra charge. I’d recommend him if you don’t mind the wait. In total the car took a year to pull engine, get built, dropped back in, then chasing down leaks and tuning.
 

joemomma

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Right on. There are a couple of guys around here that still do engine building, but like your guy, the lead times are insane.
 

Chenn2389

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Since my last post I put a PA performance voltage regulator on the powermaster 200a alternator and fixed my voltage issue. I had 2 powermaster alternators come with cheap junk voltage regulators.

I had my stock T5 rebuilt before I dropped in the new engine but had an issue with second gear not disengaging the synchro fully and it burned up in less than 500 miles and started to grind again. I pulled it and the builder is taking care of it. Replacing the second gear set, synchro, slider, blocker ring. I am going to be selling this transmission.

I ordered the T5z from MDL for the 94/95 mustang and got the billet cluster support plate put in. I decided to go with the T5z for the 2.95 first gear and .63 overdrive to compliment my added power and 3.73s better. When I installed the new trans I am getting vibrations consistent with engine rpm similar to what i was dealing with earlier this summer. It feels like the input shaft is wobbling like its not seated in the pilot bearing. I combed through some old pictures and noticed my pilot bearing is pushed in too far in the crank and not flush. Then I checked the pilot bearing surface of the old T5 input shaft and it was noticeably wearing only on the tip of the input shaft. So I believe this is my issue and will be pulling the trans and swapping to the ford racing roller type pilot bearing.

Looking back on it I have been feeling vibration consistent with engine RPM since before I tuned it, and now that I swapped the trans out the vibrations feel the same as they did. I think the pilot bushing has been my vibration issue all this time.

When I installed the T5z I put in double adjustable control arms and set my pinion to parallel to the trans output shaft.

The top photo is my pilot bearing. The bottom photo is the better ford racing roller pilot bearing. A huge difference in how it sits in the crank.
BA2AB83C-71E6-4A03-8E3C-D56ACA5CC13E.jpg
365E36D4-AA9D-4629-94C5-B90597E7C7F1.png
 
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