Man...this saved me so much money. I had no idea how awesome rock auto was...I had no idea. I have a ton of stuff in my cart that I'm about to buy lol. I owe that one to you
Bryan's 96 GT Vortech Build
- Thread starter BMAC96GT
- Start date
Man...this saved me so much money. I had no idea how awesome rock auto was...I had no idea. I have a ton of stuff in my cart that I'm about to buy lol. I owe that one to you
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Haha glad that worked out for you. I've been using rock auto for quite some time. They are fast at shipping stuff out too.
Motor is 100% ready to be pulled I just have to buy a dang engine hoist. It's irritating.
Got the valve covers finished up. Just need paint
Also started sanding on the blower. I already regret it lol. It's gonna take a lot of time but it'll be worth it in the end
Got the valve covers finished up. Just need paint
Also started sanding on the blower. I already regret it lol. It's gonna take a lot of time but it'll be worth it in the end
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Looking good man. I really wish I would have thought of shaving the valve covers when I had everything out. I also wish I would have had the timing cover either painted or powder coated when I had that off too. Looking forward to updates
Finally got an engine hoist and a second engine stand so the motor will be pulled tonight. And I'm kind of torn on what I'm going to do with the timing cover. The plan is to paint the valve covers and intake wrinkle black, repaint the engine block black, and leave the heads natural color. My vortech discharge pipe also came matte black brand new, so I feel like if I paint the timing cover black, it may be too much. I may just clean it really good when I swap it over to the PI motor
Engine is out. Going to start giving the engine bay some attention now.
Would it be easiest to take everything out of the engine bay for paint? Like AC accumulator and master cylinder/brake fluid reservoir? I don't know anything about the AC system so I didn't know if taking that out meant recharging the system. I know that pulling the brake system out would require bleeding the whole system again. Think I should try to leave most of the stuff in there for convenience or pull it out? Thoughts?
[MENTION=20210]lwarrior1016[/MENTION] any input? I know you pulled everything out when you painted yours
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Would it be easiest to take everything out of the engine bay for paint? Like AC accumulator and master cylinder/brake fluid reservoir? I don't know anything about the AC system so I didn't know if taking that out meant recharging the system. I know that pulling the brake system out would require bleeding the whole system again. Think I should try to leave most of the stuff in there for convenience or pull it out? Thoughts?
[MENTION=20210]lwarrior1016[/MENTION] any input? I know you pulled everything out when you painted yours
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
My guess would be to pull everything out. However this will require you to bleed/recharge everything.
Sent using my Typewriter
Sent using my Typewriter
[MENTION=12060]BMAC96GT[/MENTION], Pulling all that out would require recharging and bleeding. Its a lot of work to do that much. Ive seen people leave all the stuff in there and paint around it but it doesnt come out as good if you do it that way. With everything out of the way you can focus on laying the paint down straight and not getting runs or orange peel. Ive got pictures in my build thread from when I did mine.
[MENTION=20210]lwarrior1016[/MENTION] yeah I've been looking at your build thread the last 20 mins lol. To really get the engine bay open, I guess I could drop the k member while leaving all the power steering intact like you did. The thing I don't know much about is pulling the brake system out and discharging the AC system
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Without removing the a/c dryer and brackets, you wont be able to get paint behind it. You could remove the master cylinder from the hydroboost and move it out of the way, then unbolt the proportioning valve off the frame and tape everything up. That will prevent having to remove the brake lines. I really dont see you getting away without removing the a/c though.
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Engine is out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have that same engine hoist. I had to make and extension so that the hoist wouldnt eat the core support. Was that a problem for you at all?
Ah so you feel my pain! haha no as you can see I just had to take the crash support off of the front. With the hydraulic cylinder against the core support it was just long enough. Any shorter and the engine would've swung forward after it got lifted off the k-member. With where it was, it pretty much picked the engine straight up when it was fully extended. I'll probably just drill another hole a few inches back so I can extend the boom a little further. I know the hoist can support it
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Yup I have the boom extended quite a bit on mine now and I didnt have any issues. I pulled the engine with the trans too.
Ineedav8
Active Member
Props for the shaved valve covers and extra points for being a moonlight blue car for the win!
nice! love that look. i tried it on my cai tube lol. failed :deeplist: think i didn't wait long enough between coats or something but it look bad.
[MENTION=17070]Tony[/MENTION] yeah I'm gonna try to do a little research on how to lay it down. Seems like with the people I've talked to, its hard to get it to lay down right. Any input [MENTION=8229]97stanger[/MENTION]? I know you've got a lot of wrinkle black in your bay
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
Ive used wrinkle black on metal valve covers before. Make sure to get them as clean as possible. Very Light coats are your friend and be sure to shake the hell out of the can before you apply anything.
Similar threads
