Budget Suspension Upgrade? - (Team Z Tubular K-Member)

OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
BMR sells control arms that will accommodate OEM style springs.
Is there any difference with the Team-Z tubular k-member on what control arms it accepts? Or can I use any 94-04 front lower control arms that have spring perch built in?
 
Last edited:

RacerX

New Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
85
Reaction score
83
Location
NoVa
You can build a very capable SN95 Mustang without coil-overs. My focus is obviously on autocross, but I have helped people looking to make their cars more comfortable/feel better for safe street driving. The basic guidelines are to make sure your bushings and ball joints are in good shape (if they're original to the car, they're probably bad); choose suspension components that don't lower the car too much or make the car too stiff (too low and too stiff make these cars handle worse); eliminate the "factory-installed" understeer by adding a larger REAR sway bar (25mm is good for most V8s; your Cobra might already have a larger rear bar); and don't run staggered wheels and tires (they ADD understeer).

If your roads are rough, consider progressive springs. Ford Racing B springs are a good option. Progressive springs aren't my first choice for performance driving.

I don't lower my cars more than 1"; they don't look "cool", but they handle really well.

If you are looking to use the car for performance driving (not on the street), the best mod you can make are adjustable shocks and struts. These can help on rough roads too. When adjusted properly, you can fundamentally change the personality of the car.

Bushing material and type are very important. You can choose rubber, poly, Delrin or spherical. You probably don't want Delrin or spherical in a street car. If you plan on changing your UCA/LCA bushings, I recommend upgrading to UCAs/LCAs with 3-piece poly bushings (Steeda/J&M).

There are lots of helpful videos on my YouTube channel. Some of the parts have been discontinued, but I can recommend alternatives if you decide to make those specific upgrades.
Hey Warhorse. Watched and enjoyed a lot of your videos. Can't remember a reference to the poor man's 3 link or PM3L in any of them. Do you have any experience with this setup? Would you call it streetable?
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
177
Reaction score
152
Is there any difference with the Team-Z tubular k-member on what control arms it accepts? Or can I use any 94-04 front lower control arms that have spring perch built in?
As far as I can tell, Team-Z doesn't offer upper spring perches for their K-members. If that's the case, then you would have to put the OEM K-member back in place to use a stock-style spring setup (or find another aftermarket K-member that has upper spring perches). Several companies will say that you must use certain A-arms with their K-members; it's always a good idea to check with the manufacturer.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
177
Reaction score
152
Hey Warhorse. Watched and enjoyed a lot of your videos. Can't remember a reference to the poor man's 3 link or PM3L in any of them. Do you have any experience with this setup? Would you call it streetable?
Thanks for checking out my videos! I have not used the PM3L on my cars. My SRA car uses a very simple rear suspension setup, but it's very capable: Steeda adjustable rear sway bar (now discontinued), Steeda UCAs/LCAs with 3-piece poly bushings, J&M spherical upper differential housing bearing, Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable shocks (also discontinued), Ford Racing C springs, KYB quad-shocks, and a 23mm OEM rear sway bar.

Honestly, I have never felt quadra-bind with this setup on an autocross course. That's why I haven't tried the PM3L.

I have heard mixed reviews about the PM3L when it comes to autocross. But, without any personal experience with it, I don't feel comfortable recommending or criticizing it.
 
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
As far as I can tell, Team-Z doesn't offer upper spring perches for their K-members. If that's the case, then you would have to put the OEM K-member back in place to use a stock-style spring setup (or find another aftermarket K-member that has upper spring perches). Several companies will say that you must use certain A-arms with their K-members; it's always a good idea to check with the manufacturer.
What would you recommend for a good front coil over setup that won't break the bank? My use will honestly be just driving around town and going to shows, I have no plans for any track driving and really just want to make the car smooth, tight, and comfortable without all the noise and rattles. I don't want junk, but I also don't need top of the line.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
177
Reaction score
152
What would you recommend for a good front coil over setup that won't break the bank? My use will honestly be just driving around town and going to shows, I have no plans for any track driving and really just want to make the car smooth, tight, and comfortable without all the noise and rattles. I don't want junk, but I also don't need top of the line.
One of the things I focus on in my videos is the fact that you don't need coil-overs to build a capable Mustang. None of my cars have coil-overs, and I only use my cars for autocross, so they see very limited street use. I'm happy to offer advice, but it's a good idea to get suggestions from people who use coil-overs on cars they use daily.

The first thing to determine is the source of the noise. My suspension has NVH, but there aren't a lot of sharp noises or rattles. That would indicate something being loose or worn out. Make sure everything in your current setup is working properly and torqued to spec.

Most of the people I know who purchase inexpensive coil-overs aren't happy with the performance. When it comes to ride quality, struts, shocks and springs are key, even when you're just driving around town. Personally, I think having some measure of adjustability in the shocks & struts is always the best option. For your application, DA shocks & struts might be overkill, but SA shocks & struts will help add comfort. In all honesty, I do know people who have been happy with non-adjustable Bilstein shocks & struts with coil-overs on their street cars (but I have relatively good roads in my area).

A big part of the decision to go with coil-overs comes down to conversations you have with the company prior to the purchase, and the customer support after the purchase. An entry-level coil-over kit from a "top-tier" company has the added benefit of their knowledge and support.

I know many people who have had good experiences with Maximum Motorsports coil-overs.
 
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
One of the things I focus on in my videos is the fact that you don't need coil-overs to build a capable Mustang. None of my cars have coil-overs, and I only use my cars for autocross, so they see very limited street use. I'm happy to offer advice, but it's a good idea to get suggestions from people who use coil-overs on cars they use daily.

The first thing to determine is the source of the noise. My suspension has NVH, but there aren't a lot of sharp noises or rattles. That would indicate something being loose or worn out. Make sure everything in your current setup is working properly and torqued to spec.

Most of the people I know who purchase inexpensive coil-overs aren't happy with the performance. When it comes to ride quality, struts, shocks and springs are key, even when you're just driving around town. Personally, I think having some measure of adjustability in the shocks & struts is always the best option. For your application, DA shocks & struts might be overkill, but SA shocks & struts will help add comfort. In all honesty, I do know people who have been happy with non-adjustable Bilstein shocks & struts with coil-overs on their street cars (but I have relatively good roads in my area).

A big part of the decision to go with coil-overs comes down to conversations you have with the company prior to the purchase, and the customer support after the purchase. An entry-level coil-over kit from a "top-tier" company has the added benefit of their knowledge and support.

I know many people who have had good experiences with Maximum Motorsports coil-overs.
The issue I'm facing is that the car already has a Team-Z tubular K-member with control arms setup for coil-overs. Because the car has both a Procharger and Long Tube headers... the tubular K-member makes sense. So if I have to keep it, then my options are get a set of control arms that will fit the K-member but has a spring perch, or just get a good mid level coil-over.

I may just end up taking it to a shop, because I have less time than ever with a 5 year old and almost 2 year old running around, and I have no good knowledge about what to check or how to install, etc.
 

RacerX

New Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2019
Messages
85
Reaction score
83
Location
NoVa
The issue I'm facing is that the car already has a Team-Z tubular K-member with control arms setup for coil-overs. Because the car has both a Procharger and Long Tube headers... the tubular K-member makes sense. So if I have to keep it, then my options are get a set of control arms that will fit the K-member but has a spring perch, or just get a good mid level coil-over.

I may just end up taking it to a shop, because I have less time than ever with a 5 year old and almost 2 year old running around, and I have no good knowledge about what to check or how to install, etc.
Not that I think getting rid of the tubular k is a good idea but having a procharger and long tubes doesn't require a tubular K-member. You can have both of those things with the stock k-member. It's turbos where the tubular k becomes a requirement.
 
Joined
Apr 3, 2019
Messages
177
Reaction score
152
The issue I'm facing is that the car already has a Team-Z tubular K-member with control arms setup for coil-overs. Because the car has both a Procharger and Long Tube headers... the tubular K-member makes sense. So if I have to keep it, then my options are get a set of control arms that will fit the K-member but has a spring perch, or just get a good mid level coil-over.

I may just end up taking it to a shop, because I have less time than ever with a 5 year old and almost 2 year old running around, and I have no good knowledge about what to check or how to install, etc.
The first thing to confirm is whether or not the Team Z K-member has provisions for the stock-style springs. I didn't see a provision for the springs on the Team Z website. I also didn't see a bolt-on upper spring perch available on their website. I could be wrong. Look at UPR's website and you will see the separate spring perches they sell for their K-members as a reference. If there is nowhere for the top of the spring to mount, you can't use OEM A-arms & stock-style springs. You might have to use coil-overs with the Team Z K.
 
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
Not that I think getting rid of the tubular k is a good idea but having a procharger and long tubes doesn't require a tubular K-member. You can have both of those things with the stock k-member. It's turbos where the tubular k becomes a requirement.
You are correct that it's not a requirement to fit them, however, having had to remove the P1-SC, belt, various piping, the extra room to work feels like a requirement. I'd imagine things would be very tight with a stock K-member.
 
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
The first thing to confirm is whether or not the Team Z K-member has provisions for the stock-style springs. I didn't see a provision for the springs on the Team Z website. I also didn't see a bolt-on upper spring perch available on their website. I could be wrong. Look at UPR's website and you will see the separate spring perches they sell for their K-members as a reference. If there is nowhere for the top of the spring to mount, you can't use OEM A-arms & stock-style springs. You might have to use coil-overs with the Team Z K.
I'm ok with that, as long as I can find a good set that will offer a comfortable ride without breaking the bank... again I don't push this car hard and if I ever decide to I can re-do the suspension for whatever the intended purpose becomes.
 
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
Update: I actually think the noise is coming from the rear spring upper and lower insulators. I think a combination of old damaged insulators and not being seated well on the control arm is where the NVH is originating.

I decided as part of father's day I was going to try and track down my suspension noise issues. Started by walking around the car and rocking each corner, the front really didn't make any noise, but the rear made some. Looked under the car and the insulators appear to be in bad shape, and I realized that when I changed the rear shocks last fall I never took the springs out to check them. Going to order some new insulators and maybe focus on rear control arms at this point, I was thinking MM non-adjustable lowers and replace upper bushings?
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Venompower

Venompower

Active Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2015
Messages
403
Reaction score
231
Location
Batavia, IL
Question: I got the isolators yesterday, thinking about ordering new stock style uppers from LMR and replacing the bushings in the carrier, then order new MM lower control arms, and potentially a rear sway bar... anything I'm missing, and what MM lowers would you suggest. The entry level is rated for 400 whp and under, but I don't want to move into full race car territory and won't need to adjust them.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
75,744
Messages
1,464,917
Members
13,925
Latest member
mrwrong33

Members online

Top