Building a short block and strong transmission... What parts to avoid/choose?

kenny150r

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Hello all,

My car is getting old, with almost 140k miles. And while it's running fine now, I am wanting to add a blower in the next year and a half or so, hopefully a kenne bell. My first step was to get some PI heads and some decent cams, as KB doesn't support the npi heads anymore. Now, my second step is trying to build a powertrain that can hold the power. For the transmission, I am planning on having T-45 source build one. However, for the engine, I am sort of lost. For under $2000, is there any good rotating assemblies out there that will be able to hold 500-600 hp? I am planning on using my stock block, if that will work? I know mmr makes short blocks, but if I can save money by using my old block that would be best.

What sort of rotating assembly should I use? Any suggestions of where to start?
 

Cpotts13

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From my internet browsing it seems that the stock block will hold just fine, the problem was the rods and pistons really. For 2k finding a good rotating assembly will be cake my man. So long as you don't mind used parts, if you want new then it will be close to that price. If it was my build, id go for a forged OEM crank (mach 1/ cobra), boss rods, and terminator pistons. That should hold your desired power all day long..
 

kenny150r

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Chris91 should I be looking on ebay? Or is there a better place to look for something like that?
 

kenny150r

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Would it be better to build a new short block rather than trying to use a used terminator block? If I could do them for the same price, which is what it seems... the terminators have just a windsor iron block, might as well use the Romeo I have already to match my heads and throw $2000 into a rotating assembly and I should be built stronger than a terminator right?
 

D3VST8R96GT

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Used cobra crank 300-500
New pistons 500-????
Boss rods 150
Rings and bearings 250-500
Hardware 400ish (jack, main caps, rod bolts, head studs)
Plus machine work and assembly.

Don't buy a used crank that needs work ....350 is a good price for one that doesn't need work IMO.

New pistons.... just get new ones save the head ache. Plan your compression ratio

Rings and bearings depending on the piston and what level of bearings you want.... you can spend a lot of money here but you probably won't come close to the boundaries so you could do find with the basic (above OEM)

Hardware.... you can reuse the stuff you pull off. You can replace it with TTY fasteners many people swear by them. Again you probably won't get to a power level you would need all of them. Head steads are just insurance IMO....

Machine work and assembly. Find someone who doesn't work on Harley Davidson's..... lol
 

96blak54

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Swap rods and pistons to coyote and flat top forged pistons. Modify the npi heads and be done. Youll be happy!
 

kenny150r

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I've already got PI heads for my block, got rid of the NPI ones. I am trying to go with a low compression build and then crank up the boost!

D3VST8R96GT, thank you for the input... I haven't heard of these boss rods until today! I'll have to see if I can pull some prices together for those parts.

Do you know if there is any catch with the kits mod max racing makes? Like this one:
http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99025254.htm
Is there a catch? Seems pretty cheap and comes with everything needed for a nice shortblock. Would just need my machine shop to hone the block and balance everything.
 

DropTopPony

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If you are on a budget then no need to buy a Cobra crank. Your cast crank will handle the power you want to make easily. Thats 3-400 you can put into something else like a tune.
 

96blak54

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Why low compression? The cylinders can only retain so much "boost" before thermal dynamics come into play. Your better to increase compression and low boost. 500rwhp can be had very easily and cheap.
 

D3VST8R96GT

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I've already got PI heads for my block, got rid of the NPI ones. I am trying to go with a low compression build and then crank up the boost!

D3VST8R96GT, thank you for the input... I haven't heard of these boss rods until today! I'll have to see if I can pull some prices together for those parts.

Do you know if there is any catch with the kits mod max racing makes? Like this one:
http://www.modmaxracing.com/product_p/99025254.htm
Is there a catch? Seems pretty cheap and comes with everything needed for a nice shortblock. Would just need my machine shop to hone the block and balance everything.
I have bought the rods.... ask if they are ready to drop in once the assembly is balanced. Obviously after your block work is done.
If you are on a budget then no need to buy a Cobra crank. Your cast crank will handle the power you want to make easily. Thats 3-400 you can put into something else like a tune.
Yeah on 2nd thought DTP is right. Unless you have an 8bolt crank already (Windsor wtf) its a little less headache for later..
Why low compression? The cylinders can only retain so much "boost" before thermal dynamics come into play. Your better to increase compression and low boost. 500rwhp can be had very easily and cheap.
With the restriction the SOHC motors face it comes oh so soon Lol.

With compression we have to talk about your cam choice....
 

kenny150r

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I'd like to run 91/93, and from what I've read the drop in power from a lower comp. ratio is way less than the power gained from pushing more boost.
 

D3VST8R96GT

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I'd like to run 91/93, and from what I've read the drop in power from a lower comp. ratio is way less than the power gained from pushing more boost.
Yes generally speaking that is true. But blower efficiency iat become major players with additional boost. This is compounded when your motor doesn't flow air very well (2v life)
 

96blak54

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The efficiency of a modular 2v head paired with a 3.5" bore....youll see no problems, especially with a npi head (I had to throw that in there..lol...its true though)
 

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