Bumping Timing

monkeydude3

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Okay so yes I have tried search but I would like to present my case here.

Working on a 1994 GT with full exhaust and a K*N drop in w/o silencer. I just got home with it, I drove it from my brother -inlaw's house to here ran it as empty as I could, filled it with BP Amoco Ultimate 93 octane and a bottle of STP octane boost and drove around for about a half hour to circulate it all through the system. Noticed no difference (not that I would) but it SEEMED like the exhaust had a slightly different smell to it, but it may be in my head.

My neighbor is a major hot rodder and I'm gonna see if he can lend me a timing light and maybe some of his time and see if he can help me bump it on here.

Now... IS advancing the timing really worth it? I was told stock base timing is about 10 degrees, and it's common to advance it to 14 degrees. Does 4 degrees base timing really help overall? Assuming I get it to advance right and drive fine will I feel the improvement? I have never really heard spark knock or ping before, so does anyone have a video of it or a sound clip or can describe it well, so that on my test drive, I know what to listen for exactly?

Thanks in advance!
 

zero_chance

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If youre always going to run 93 octane, bumping timing is free horsepower. Id start in two degree increments and see how it takes to it. You wont really notice a difference just with premium gas and stock timing. Spark knock is best described as the sound of dropping BBs or any metalic object into a metal coffee can. Its a pretty accurate description. That being said youll notice if its pinging. Keep the music down and fan off and youll be able to hear a light almost metallic noise if its knocking. You should be able to feel the loss of power if youre familiar with the car. In my 95 Gt when I wasnt running premium, at approximately 1/4 throttle under slight load like a little hill it would ping bad. Like I said, just start with two degrees, tighten the dizzy hold down bolt and see how it reacts to it.
 
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monkeydude3

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I knew i wouldn't feel a diff. with 93. The thing is... like before I stated in othe rposts, this is a shared car, so it will have anything from 91 up to 93 octane init. I will tell my brother in law 93 only... but that means not much more to him than just sayin g"Premium"

so maybe 2-3 degrees would be safe.

Any idea roughly how many HP you can get? is it a noticeable increase worth the time?

I've never set the timing on a 5.0 before is it any different than a small block chevy? other than dizzy location..
 

Foster98GT

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Originally Posted by DigitalGhost
stupid question....

how do you check and change the timing?

you need a white out pen, beer and a timing light.


0: Drink beer ( thanks Ike83!)

1: rotate the crank and check the balancer for the timing marks.

2: use the white out pen to mark the lines and pointer tip clearly so you can read them easily

3: hook up the timing light to the battery and #1 cylinder spark plug wire

4: Remove the spout connector and loosen the distributor hold down bolt.

5. Start the engine and let it idle.

6: Point the timing gun at the balancer and pull the trigger, you should see your white marks standing still.

7: adjust the timing by rotating the distributor. Rotate it until the timing degree you want lines up with the tip of the pointer.

8: Shut down the engine and tighten the distributor hold down

9: re connect the spout connector and your done.

Let me know if I missed anything.

I Did it on my FOX and their was a noticeable difference....
 

zero_chance

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Thats a pretty good description for ya. Especially the beer part. Even 91 would be better as opposed to 87 octane. If you cant guarantee 93 al lthe time you might not want to go higher than 12 degrees just to be safe.
 
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monkeydude3

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Yeah that's what I was thinking. if it was MY car i'd go 93 and 14.. but maybe 12 will suffice.

I just want it to have a bit more snap. All these little mods i'm doin are gonna SHINE with the 3.73s when they go in...

umm I will give it a shot, i got a full tank of gas and a lil drivin to do this week so hopefully sometime I can get it done.

Thanks!
 
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monkeydude3

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Okay the haynes manual is utterly useless. It gives a detailed description with no pictures.

Could someone supply me with a picture of what i am un plugging and exactly where I need to line up my timing line with?
I found a bracket that said "TIME" on it but I don't know if I line it up to the end of that or to the middle or that little hole?

Thanks
 

Suspect

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(((Foster98GT))) said:
Originally Posted by DigitalGhost
stupid question....

how do you check and change the timing?

you need a white out pen, beer and a timing light.


0: Drink beer ( thanks Ike83!)

1: rotate the crank and check the balancer for the timing marks.

2: use the white out pen to mark the lines and pointer tip clearly so you can read them easily

3: hook up the timing light to the battery and #1 cylinder spark plug wire

4: Remove the spout connector and loosen the distributor hold down bolt.

5. Start the engine and let it idle.

6: Point the timing gun at the balancer and pull the trigger, you should see your white marks standing still.

7: adjust the timing by rotating the distributor. Rotate it until the timing degree you want lines up with the tip of the pointer.

8: Shut down the engine and tighten the distributor hold down

9: re connect the spout connector and your done.

Let me know if I missed anything.

I Did it on my FOX and their was a noticeable difference....
check again after u tighten it down. sometimes it moves.
 

Suspect

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spout is on the passenger side fender. small wire with a grey plug. heres a pic of the balancer and pointer.

[attachment deleted by admin]
 
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monkeydude3

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Thanks guys! I tried 12 degrees, now she's at 14 degrees. Seems to rev a bit quicker and pull a little harder. If anything it runs a lot more "sure of itself" if that makes sense.

One thing though that is still goofy about it. When I first start it and about 30 seconds into running, it acts like it just dumped way too much fuel and pops and spits when I let off the gas like it's super rich, then it runs perfectly normal and fine. Is this normal for a 5.0 or do I have dirty injectors or something?

Thanks!!!
 

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