Cam question

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by BALZY_GT, Nov 11, 2006.

  1. BALZY_GT

    BALZY_GT Member

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    I'm thinking of putting a different cam in my 94 GT. I was thinking a FRPP E-cam, but i'm not sure. Any suggestions for a fairly stock motor? Also what does it take to replace the cam? Can i do it with the motor in the car?
     
  2. Stangbangin

    Stangbangin Active Member

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    I don't have much experience with the E cam but I've heard mixed reviews. I have a trick flow grind so I have no clue. As my only suggrstions would to NOT use the B cam since it's barely fatter than your stocker. It takes a good bit to do a cam...if you've never done one you might want 3 or 4 people who have with you when you try or leave it up to a shop. you're basically gonna have to take your motor half apart. You can do it with it in the car but man its a hell of a lot easier with it not in the car.
     
  3. 94darkhorse

    94darkhorse Legend

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    I have the e cam and I am happy with the lope and sound of it. Make relatively good power. As for the heads, if you are running stock heads you will need to get new valve springs and push rods. The stock heads will prob. resrict the flow of the cam some so you might want to keep your option open to either getting new heads or getting yours ported.
     
  4. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Post Whore

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    The E cam dominates around here :-\ everyone has it, including me on my 91GT..........well back when I had it anyway ;D. Its a good shelf cam and makes respectable power. However those 94-95 cars are tricky when it comes to cams so you need to hear back from guys that have them in their cars.
     
  5. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Post Whore

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    I think for the stock motor a B cam would be better than the E b/c it has less lift but more duration. No cam is going to do you much good without aftermarket heads and intake, but if/when you get them the B would make more power. i would actually recommend just waiting and doing them at once. If you're worried about your car running decent afterwards you can look into computer compatible cams, two i know off the top of my head are the Steeda #19 and Crane 2031, but i know there are others. I got the Steeda but it's not installed yet...
     
  6. snoball

    snoball Active Member

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    I have a trick flow stage one cam its similiar to an e cam but i love the power it makes and its great with a mostly stock motor.
     
  7. Downshift

    Downshift Well-Known Member

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    Ok here is what I dont get. What makes those cames computer compatible? I ask this because some people say stay away from the E cam because it can act up with the computer. But if you look at the specs on the E-303 and the Crane 2040 they are IDENTICAL. Does anyone know why one woudl be better for the computer then the other one? Or are the maybe just BSing? Wouldnt the 2031 be too much lift?
     
  8. snoball

    snoball Active Member

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    my check engine light comes on every now and then, but i have no tune whatsoever and its never ran funny for me?
     
  9. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Post Whore

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    It has to do with vacuum at idle; here is what Steeda says:
    I think think the lift starts getting iffy around .530 lift so the 2031 should be okay, but you always should check. Just incase you dont know, the Crane 2031 specs are with 1.7 rockers, not with 1.6 like most cam specs are listed.
     
  10. Downshift

    Downshift Well-Known Member

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    That makes sense to me. I was wondering more about the crane 2040 though. Check it out all the specs even the LS degree is equal so thats why I was curious. http://store.summitracing.com/compa...0+4294887637+4294887636+4294840126+400078+115 I understand about the steeda now though thanks.
     
  11. d_punch

    d_punch Active Member

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    the statement that you have to pull half your engine off to swap cams is false.

    you don't even have to pull the heads off. with some aftermarket intakes you don't even have to take those off as long as you can take the valve covers off.

    look here, download the instructions, it tells you how to use their tool. http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/new_products/tappettools.htm

    i have a 2031 cam, it's specified to be used with 1.7 rockers, i believe the 2030 cam is the same if not similar but uses 1.6 rockers

    IMHO i don't think it's worth the time and money to swap out a cam and still keep the stock heads. buts its your time and money not mine, if thats what you want to do by all means do it.

    i do have a reoccuring idle issue since the cam install, i did get it straighten out once, but once you disconnect the CAI or disconnect the battery it starts all over again. and i just don't have the time or patience to deal with it right now.

    but what ever you decide, good luck
     
  12. Lightning Struck

    Lightning Struck Post Whore

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    good link, those tools are very handy to make a cam swap simple, I thought everyone knew about them :(
     
  13. d_punch

    d_punch Active Member

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    i guess not, there were 9 replys before my own and no mention of it.
     
  14. G_94_T

    G_94_T Member

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    94-95 computers dont like a lot of duration,valve lift is not really a problem....i would try and stay under 225* duration (@.050" lift) to keep the 'puter happy....but if your still running stock heads and intake a bigger cam is a waste of time IMHO....
     
  15. Stangbangin

    Stangbangin Active Member

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    I have never seen that cam swap tool in my life.....probably cuz I never had time to look cuz I was spending it all swapping cams...that is freakin sweet and I feel dumb for having to take my beautiful apart just to change a damn cam ...good lookin out though
     
  16. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Post Whore

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    I see what you're saying, the funny thing is Summit Racing calls the E303 computer compatible...
     
  17. tricksn95

    tricksn95 New Member

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    TFS stage one is what i run it is probly the best cam that i have owned. TFS........................FTW :thumb:

    SORRY UPGRADING FORUMS, ATTACHMENT WAS ERASED, YOU NEED TO REUPLOAD!
     
  18. ryclef331

    ryclef331 Well-Known Member

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    The whole computer compatible is CRAP. If you're throwing a cam in your car, you CAN get it to run and idle. It isn't going to be "stock driveability" but its DAMN close. I had my 331 with AFR 185 Heads, .544" Lift Erson Cam, and a Performer intake idling all day at 850-950 rpms. If you take your time with setting the timing, idle air screw, and THE TPS VOLTAGE (anyone who says the computer does it for you if full of shit) you CAN get it to run and idle. The ultimate solution is to do all of this (makes sure your car is in good working order) and then get it tuned. The problem, like said earlier, is a lack of vaccum signal at idle and cruise. This causes a rich condition and will cause hesitations at other than WOT and also bucking at cruise. Some of you experience this with a STOCK cam. Shit, even with a tune, my car surges when its cold for a lil under a minute, then she settle down. Don't let some driveability ECU bullshit influence your cam decision. GO FOR POWER, EVERYTHING ELSE IS SECONDARY AND NEGLIGIBLE.

    Yes, our computers are touchy but they can still do their job and well. You bought a 94-95 Mustang....no need to go BACK in time with a fox body parts and computers.
     
  19. 95 Sleeper

    95 Sleeper Active Member

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    If you are running the stock computer with no tune then you need to stick around 114 lobe seperation. I am running a custom grind cam with 230/236 duration and 555/565 lift but I am also running an SCT tune on my car and my car idles just fine.
     
  20. Stangbangin

    Stangbangin Active Member

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    yea I heard cams to keep idle issues at bay the cam needs to have the same duration as the stocker.