Cam question

[BlownSN95]

I'm running a Steeda #19 with 1.7 trickflow rockers. It idles at 800 rpms and runs great. I have a PMS for tuning. When I build a boost motor down the road I do plan on upping it to a larger blower cam.

 

[Hybrid Freak]

Look if you want a nice daily driver and want a nice idle with a lopey sound either anderderson ford motorsports b-31 or the steeda #19 is awsome. I have a steeda #19 camshaft not yet installed. Very good for 94-95 ecu's.

 

[Stopsign32v]

Don't change the cam with a basically stock motor. The cam swap isn't like putting a throttle body on. Plus at the end of the day you will just have a car that sounds like it has 400rwhp when it will have about 240rwhp. I say save your money up for heads or put the cam money towards a part that will actually get you power out of your car right now. Thats just my opinion ofcourse.

 

[Spyder]

I have heard a lot of bad reviews of the E303, so i would steer clear fo that.

Had a couple friends of mine drop some F303 in there sn95, and i must say that cam has some nice lope and makes good power.

I have the Trick flow stage 1, and i love it. That would be my suggestions, but im biased

 

[Hybrid Freak]

1st off get a set of heads. Then worry about the cam. But I would definitly get the steeda #19 or the anderson ford motorsports b-31 cam trust me you'll see the best results with one of those cams. Bye.

 

[94darkhorse]

my check engine light comes on every now and then, but i have no tune whatsoever and its never ran funny for me?

Mine studders and dies in idle, I have to keep the rpm's at about 800 or so to keep it from dying on me at a stop light. But that being said, I like the way the e cam and will prolly stick w/ it for a while.

The whole computer compatible is CRAP. If you're throwing a cam in your car, you CAN get it to run and idle. It isn't going to be "stock driveability" but its DAMN close. I had my 331 with AFR 185 Heads, .544" Lift Erson Cam, and a Performer intake idling all day at 850-950 rpms. If you take your time with setting the timing, idle air screw, and THE TPS VOLTAGE (anyone who says the computer does it for you if full of shit) you CAN get it to run and idle. The ultimate solution is to do all of this (makes sure your car is in good working order) and then get it tuned. The problem, like said earlier, is a lack of vaccum signal at idle and cruise. This causes a rich condition and will cause hesitations at other than WOT and also bucking at cruise. Some of you experience this with a STOCK cam. Shit, even with a tune, my car surges when its cold for a lil under a minute, then she settle down. Don't let some driveability ECU bullshit influence your cam decision. GO FOR POWER, EVERYTHING ELSE IS SECONDARY AND NEGLIGIBLE.
Yes, our computers are touchy but they can still do their job and well. You bought a 94-95 Mustang....no need to go BACK in time with a fox body parts and computers.

Agreed totally. That is my exact thoughts.