Ok, got my motor out, changed the heads because of a valve guide, New valvesprings, locks, etc etc. When I tried switching the gears the shit hit the fan. My Windsor gears press on/off, but I thought the cams were otherwise the same. The inner diameter of the gear is smaller the the diameter of the cams. Can I just use stock Romeo gears and be good? Never had a Romeo motor before so no parts to compare. This is all that's holding me back from putting my motor back in. Is 90inlb really as little as effort as it feels like?
Aw dood! Dont that just bite a big donkey peter!! Sucks balls! .... Anyhow...I feel your pain bro, but keep going mang! Ive never had a problem like this! I didnt know it exists! Typical though....trying to get something together while making motor sounds, shifting gears and such...lol. I have always had alot of 4v parts and they worked evertime with aftermarket cams...no problems. Also inch lbs is for gaskets torque settings....lol. The torque setting for a 12mm bolt is 90ftlbs and 10mm is like 30-40ftlb then 90°. Im sure you ment ftlbs though
This is true but I went on the assumption of the cam gear bolt since most of his topic focused on the gears. Yea 90ftlbs on the cam cap ....thats crazy..lol
Haha yeah it was just a random sentence Idk if the op mixed it up, typed wrong, or was talking about the can caps. I know you know your shit The D3V
how bad would it be to reuse stock bolts? when people say file the gear to get them in the right centerline they mean file off the key on the inside completely so you can turn the gear wherever you want right? And this holds? the gear doesn't spin on the shaft, even just a little,under load? i need help on this one fellas.
The stock can cap bolts? Reuse em. I think that are TTY not sure, only issue I have had is ME breaking them. As for filing Idk if I would do that The D3V
Never said that! ID only get adjustable lower sprockets if at all. The stock cam gears have like a +/-4 (don't quote me). I haven't had any personal experience with adjustable uppers. Just heard too much bad to risk it. The D3V
Get stock romeo gears OR adjustable gears. Yes 90 in/lb is light but toque sequence is key. I ground my gears to degree the, you only do a little at a time. Redegree do math amd prob grind a hair more. No worry witj grinding tjey keyway of the gear. Sean Hyland has run motors 9000 + with no keyway. Again, I didnt but if you can afford them, yes You can get both upper and lowe but on a 2v normally a 4v will see the best from upper primary AND secondary. I think thats it all.... Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Lap the key or completely grind it out. The key is really a location point and no real drive pressure is on it.
Aw man..im sorry for the late reply! Im not entirely sure of the exact amount but 10° crankshaft for sure!
was just wondering out of curiosity. I think I got it figured out now. Needed someone to say that aftermarket cams are built like a Romeo. The specs may be the same between the Windsor and Romeo but that's it.
Got to get a lifter welded so I can degree the cams, or at least check them. Cam card calls for 109* but ive read that 110* on 5.4 makes more power. Thoughts on this? Also, should I torque a arp bolt to the same ftlb as the stocker? 90ftlb?
Im gonna do a writeup on putting aftermarket cams in a Windsor motor after all this. Good learning experience...
Grind it off with a small die grinder..... There is no way to answer that unless you have 2 cams and a crank shaft that are perfectly set up at zero degrees perfectly, then you will have a number. But remember because we have to degree them, one coudl be set at +1* and the other a -.1* As far as cam difference, there is none, its only the attachment point and style for the cam gear to the stock No matter who makes the bolt always torque to stock spec As far as welding a lash adjuster , thats fine but typically you want a SOLID lift which you can scew in and out to keep the follower in place. This allows you to keep the cam install, compress the spring, put the follower in, then adjust the lash adjuster UP to hold the follower in place, degree that cam, then remove it with unscrewing it.
