I have svo heads and intake and am finally getting around to installing cams. I have done some research on Crower and Comp as they offer cams that will work with my heads and not have PTV problems. I am looking to get as much power as possible. My stang is a weekend/fun car so i wont have to deal with commuting or heavy traffic issues. What is everyones recommendations? PS: I heard none of VT's cams will work on my car due to lift so no need to go into them unless they have a new offereing. Thanks, Matt
The SVO head's aren't set-up for hhigh lift cams? Just curious. Most off the shelf cams are gonna be pretty similar, most people just pick the brand they like. Hitech is also a cam grinder for our car's, may want to look into them.
I have the XE274H cams from Comp Cams. I don't have them installed yet, but they are the biggest npi cams Comp Cams has. If I was you i would look at npi grinds. I would also give VT a call and ask them directly about their cams. I have heard where Comp has issues with PTV clearance VT hasn't had that issue.
Thanks so much guys. This is my first time posting here. The other forums arent interested in our cars! These heads have about the same clearance as npi heads and since the stock pistons are almost flat it doesnt allow for to much lift. From my stand point though anything is better than what i have. I am hoping for at least 30 hp to the wheels with the cams. With my setup i dont think it should be a problem (i have stock npi cams). I will check into all the brands (Hitech, VT, Comp, and Crower). I have been leaning towards Crower stage 3's. Do you think they would be to much for me?
The pistons do not affect your cam choice too much, it's the lift and duration, but mainly the duration. If the cam holds the valve open too long.... you get a crash. The manufacturer's can help you out there. With a stage three cam, I would recomend gear's, and hope you don't drive in traffic too often
It's just unhappy at lower RPM's, and would experience a pretty significant torque loss below 3 or 4k over stock, making it harder to drive. The lumpy idle, musclecar cams are happy at 6k, but unhappy at 2k. And honestly I only go over 3k four or five times a week when I'm screwing around.
I really like the hitech cams! I have a question though! Will I have any problems with PTV clearance with out degreeing the cams with the stage 3?
Harder to drive ? My car drives like its stock. Yeah,these cams like RPMs ,but they are smooth in the whole band. Its definitely lumpy when idling etc.
Looked like you were sayin that Staged cams are harder to drive. Just wonderin what you meant. Mine drive great.
I'm saying that cams with tight LSA'a and longer duration run rougher at lower RPM's. Eventually it does get to a point where there car would just as soon die as drive normally. If you tried to drive my car down the CA 91 west at 5:30 pm you would see what I mean. Back when I lived in Ohio it was a non-issue, but here in Cali in heavy traffic it becomes apparent quickly. I personally don't really go by the whole "stage I, II, II" thing. But I guess it is a good reference point for people.
Some people have different experiences.Maybe you have bad tune. With these cams its all about the tune.My cams run fine like I said. I did the head/cam swap myself no problems. And we have plenty of traffic here. I can floor it from first all the way to 5th ,and she just keeps climbing. On the dyno she sounded perfect . But like anyother mod,not all cars respond the same way.
I can floor mine from first all the way through 6th. I'm talking about trying to slip the clutch through heavy traffic at 1100 rpm and 3 mph.
Oh ,you just had to rub that extra gear in my face didnt you ? :rollinglaugh: Hey,they are a huge departure from stock. I agree.
We all end up with either that extra gear or the beef (Tremec) in the end anyway, lol. With an auto cam duration and LSA become even more important, because the stock stall speed is too low for them.
did you guys replace the chain, sprockets, and tensioners? A friend of mine recommended i replace them. also: without pulling a valve cover how cani tell if my sprockets are pressed or bolted on? Its a 96 gt