So in the morning I turn on my sn95 it turns on prefect and runs good but when I go to turn on the heater it starts dying then like in 6 mins the whole car dies and when i try to turn it on again it wont and the battery is dead. And this is with a new battery also. Any ideas on why this is happening
Car heater kills battery
- Thread starter Talan
- Start date
95opal
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2007
- Messages
- 3,006
- Reaction score
- 1,558
Throw a volt meter on the battery while its running to see what its charging at. Id assume a failing alt or regulator.
ttocs
Post Whore
as he said see what your charging at and are you running under drive pullies?
Yep it was a failing alternator replaced it now it works thanks for the help
cobrajeff96
Well-Known Member
The only thing really activating when you turn on the heat is just the interior blower motor. Perhaps (maybe) it's so so old and gunked up with grime and dust that it creates to much resistance that it draws too much current for the charging system to handle. Wild guess, but you never know.
Anyways, does the fan blow strong out the vents? Or is it kinda weak?
Anyways, does the fan blow strong out the vents? Or is it kinda weak?
ttocs
Post Whore
so no change in voltage with the heater on/off? Just curious what the voltage reading is?
badass98svt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2006
- Messages
- 4,150
- Reaction score
- 1,839
He said it was the alternator
It blows strong out the vents
But in the end it was a alternator problem
So we tested the voltage of the battery and it was losing power slowy since the alternator was not giving any power to the battery
Road_Runna
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2019
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 5
FYI. I recently went through a bad regulator. Without accessories it would run about 14.2... then I would turn on the biggest drain to my car which is the rear window defrost, it would drop it to a 12.6.
I noticed fluctuating volts to both accessories on and off, like I said: it would fluctuate .02 to .08 volts every other second as time passed by.
My newer AutoZone alternator with the motocraft regulator keeps everything at a constant 14.4 even when accessories are on, best part is no fluctuation of volts.
I'm also using BBK underdrive aluminium pulleys.
I noticed fluctuating volts to both accessories on and off, like I said: it would fluctuate .02 to .08 volts every other second as time passed by.
My newer AutoZone alternator with the motocraft regulator keeps everything at a constant 14.4 even when accessories are on, best part is no fluctuation of volts.
I'm also using BBK underdrive aluminium pulleys.
ttocs
Post Whore
The voltage drop from the defroster is certainly suspect to pulling too much current for some reason, but the underdrive pullies are what really catches my attention. Is this a racecar/street car? If it is on the street then how much time do you spend idling? If you spend a fair amount of time in traffic then ditch the pullies even if you didn't replace the alt pully. They slow down the alt, which limits how much current they can put out but the current demands on it have not changed. This causes it to get a little hot, and then on top of that it is designed to cool itself while its turning so slowing it down reduces how well it can cool itself. If you have a racecar or is just not kept at idle much they can add a few hp while not hurting anything but on a car that does idle a lot, no good.
95opal
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2007
- Messages
- 3,006
- Reaction score
- 1,558
Both the OP and guy you quoted stated they had failing alts. Why do you keep pushing the UD theory?
ttocs
Post Whore
personal experience of putting them on my own car and talking to many many others that put UDP's on and then had to replace their alt a few months later just like me. Sure alts fail just like the first one did but I guess your saying that the fact that road_runna has them and it failed means nothing? from a lot of the UDP customers I have talked to they seem to happen 6 months to a year after they install the pullies and then I also know a number of people that went through a 2nd alt(myself included), before they put the stock back on and had no issues. It just can't cool itself as well when it runs slower unless you have the rpms up high enough to make up for it.
And then lets all be honest you know me I just love to push a good conspiracy......
And then lets all be honest you know me I just love to push a good conspiracy......
Why do you think that slowing it down on every car will make no difference? I say they are ok for racecars kept up in higher rpms, not good in street cars that are forced to sit in a lot of traffic. We have had countless people on the electronics forum ask why their lights dim at night while sitting at lights after installing them, even if they didn't put the alt pulley on and only did the crank and if you keep doing that it will kill an alternator.
