Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

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Venompower

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Before you try to tighten it, take the nut off to make sure you have threads to tighten. If you don't and continue to try and tighten it, you may find there isn't any more threads. Why not take it off completely, and/or, check for a part number to be sure they're correct? Might save some headaches.
So I got under the car yesterday and these are KYB Excel-G shocks.
 

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According to KYB, these are the specs on rear shocks #344433. I'd look for a part number stamped in them or at least take the measurements.
KYB Excel-G shocks


Extended Length 19.68
Compressed Length 14.56
Stroke Length 5.12
 
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Venompower

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According to KYB, these are the specs on rear shocks #344433. I'd look for a part number stamped in them or at least take the measurements.



Extended Length 19.68
Compressed Length 14.56
Stroke Length 5.12
I will, mainly want to find installation guide to get an idea of what bushing is used up top and if a replacement can be purchased if necessary?
 
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Made it down to Sutton Ford in Matteson, IL for Bleed Ford Blue Fest on Saturday with my son and father/brother-in-law. It was a wonderful show, pretty much every generation represented and definitely lit a fire under my butt to both get Casper ready for the rest of the summer and to replace my Super 44's with some stainless OG Flowmaster 40's... this thing is just to quiet at idle for LT's and an off-road H:


Here are some pictures from the show:

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I've only seen one new GT500 out driving, and never seen this color I believe it's "sublime?"

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I assumed my son would want to get a picture with the GT500, no, he prefers the classics lol This GT350 had a huge pool of oil under it... and left the show pretty hard. We saw it broke down on I-80 while leaving, luckily it was just a flat tire.

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My son's favorite car from the show instagram: @boosted347 Hudson told me the foxbodies were scary!

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Last shot is instagram: @b_notch92 and @blueovalmedia two of the cleanest foxbodies you will find. Hudson loved the show, never wanted to leave the mobile dyno area... and made dyno noises the whole way home with his hotwheels. I may have got a little misty eyed on the way home, can't wait to continue to share memories like this with the little guy.
 
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Soooooo got the tires on today and realized this evening went I drove out of the neighborhood that I once again had no turn signals or brake lights. Swapped fuse which fixed it until I drove forward and the fuse immediately blew again. Got home and found what others had already advised… when clutch is depressed it’s work through the wires for brake and turn signals. It causes a short to ground and blows the fuse.

How would you fix this so that it’s no longer and issue? I just want to drive my car lol…

DB1C8E89-EF50-474D-A621-9A9D1A485B85.jpeg
 
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as long as the wire isn't broke a couple of wraps of electrical tap on each wire would work. Use good tape, 3m super 33.
Perfect. Wire isn’t broken, everything works fine with new fuse and vehicle running. It only shorts when you depress the clutch to drive it. I’ll run and grab some new fuses and the tape you recommended.

Edit: Only one wire looked rubbed through so instead of trying to split it all apart and wrap everything individually which will be a huge bitch based on limited room I wrapped the section with a couple pieces of the 3M tape you recommended and popped the plastic retainer off so the wires can hang to the side instead of being held directly behind the clutch arm. I replaced the blown fuse, and put the car in the run position and everything worked which I expected. I then put the turn signal on and pumped the clutch and everything was fine. I’ll take it for test drive round two tomorrow, hopefully this fixes it.
 
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Thanks @ttocs it worked and the turn signals and brake lights were fine during my longest drive to date. I know this because a local police officer was behind me on my way home, and I'm sure would have let me know if I had any issues lol.

I did experience yet another problem, which is why I was anxious to start doing some shakedown drives. After driving to the gas station to fill up on 93 octane, I drove maybe 5 minutes across town, and decided to try a short first gear pull. At WOT in first as RPM climbed say above 3k I experienced an abrupt cut off in power. It almost felt like a charge pipe connector popping off (however, upon inspection last night they are all connected). I let out, and the car proceeded to drive fine on the way back home. I didn't attempt any other pulls.

The car has:
- NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .030 (New)
- NTK OEM 02 sensors (New)
- Original Plug Wires
- Original Coils
- Green Top 42 lbs/hour injectors
- Unknown Fuel Pump

Now I know I need to check fuel pressure at the rail, as well as data log, and monitor AFR. That being said has anybody experienced anything like this before? The car sat for about a year before I purchased it per the last owner, so I have a fuel filter that I've been meaning to install. I can't imagine on a 3.9 pulley that I'm experiencing spark blow out at this low of boost with appropriate gapping, I would have almost expected that to feel like misses not full cut off. My guess is a fuel issue somewhere?
 
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Here’s a couple videos from today, the AFR was in the 11’s so it’s leading me to believe it’s not fuel related… off the top of my head I’m thinking spark or potentially failing BOV dumping boost?

 
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a loss of boost should be easy to see, at least if you have the right set up.
I mean I have a boost gauge but the sudden loss in throttle causes the blow off valve to dump. I’m leaning towards spark but would still love to know if anyone else has dealt with anything similar.
 

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Blow off valve, not bypass valve? I thought with the maf systems that these use they need the bypass to not loose the air already metered? Anyway if it is going off wouldn't that signal a change in the vacuum or vac lines in some way?
 
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Blow off valve, not bypass valve? I thought with the maf systems that these use they need the bypass to not loose the air already metered? Anyway if it is going off wouldn't that signal a change in the vacuum or vac lines in some way?
My car has a blow through setup from VMP with a slot style MAF. I have a Procharger "Big Red" Blow-off Valve just after the head unit.

Let's say it's spark related, as soon as the cylinders stop firing, the boost level drops just like when I shift or go off throttle, and that signals the blow-off valve to dump. I'm leaning towards some sort of ignition problem (coils, plug wires, plugs) based on the good AFR.
 

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