Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

Venompower

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7.94 volts would cause a lot of problems. Yea start simple and check your ground/power. I know my holley efi HAS to be wired directly to the battery. I had it connected under the hood at a large fusebox with the battery in the back but they said it had to have its own wire to the battery. I was having issues with starting at that time and it seemed to fix it along with another fix.
I need to break out my Haynes repair manual tonight and go through where the PCM gets power… maybe when I pulled the alarm I did something?
 

Venompower

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I need some moral support as I'm at my wits end.

The 7.9375v reading just seemed suspect, as looking at the log again it never changed.... just gave the same number the entire time. That number should have fluctuated during the log, so I e-mailed SCT and they confirmed I should see fluctuation. Checked the PID for battery voltage through the X4 and got within one volt of what was measured at the battery. I also double checked the CCRM PIN 12/24 (PCM POWER) and after trickle charging the battery over night got 12.2v at each, so I must have not gotten the leak far enough in...

So recap:

Fuel Pressure is 30 psi at KOEO, 35 psi at idle, and 45 psi with vacuum line detached.
New Fuel Filter
New NGK TR6 gapped at 0.030 (will be pulling all tonight to check gap again)
22 inches of vacuum at idle
No Check Engine Light
No Codes, PCM seems fine in this regard because unplugging the CCRM generated code P1000

Tuner said I needed to replace the stock ignition coils, which I'm fine with... but only if that solves my problem. I think I'm going to get an in-line spark checker from Harbor Freight. Certainly open to any other ideas... I'll get some video of idle tonight as well.
 

ttocs

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If the test light shows good spark to all cylinders, then that may be the next step...
spark has to do with the spark plugs, its completely separate from the injectors. You can have spark but if the injectors are not working correctly it will not get the right amount of fuel.
 

Venompower

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spark has to do with the spark plugs, its completely separate from the injectors. You can have spark but if the injectors are not working correctly it will not get the right amount of fuel.
So I need to isolate systems to determine if one is or is not functioning. It seems I'm either having an issue getting fuel into the cylinders or I'm having issues getting spark to the cylinders. I know my fuel system is producing adequate pressure based on the pressure test results at idle, so the only thing left that could be an issue are the injectors on the fuel side.

On the spark side my tuner advised 9 out of 10 times the issues I'm having are spark plugs gapped too loose or a bad coil. So tonight I'm going to pull all plugs and check gap/inspect, I'm going to test the coils for continuity, and test the wires with an inline spark tester to verify all cylinders are getting spark, that should rule out coil and plug wires.

If spark appears to be good, I'll probably be pulling the injectors... if spark is bad, depending on how things test I'll order wires or coils and wires. I just can't throw money at it... and having no codes makes it hard to isolate what is happening.
 

07GtS197

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Are you getting that voltage at the battery too? That’s on the low side.

Did you ever do a pull and datalog timing?
 

Venompower

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Are you getting that voltage at the battery too? That’s on the low side.

Did you ever do a pull and datalog timing?
12.6v at battery, 12.2v at CCRM which seems within spec for voltage drop. Not sure why the X4 reads 11.6v?

I'm trying to find a good configuration file for the X4 that will monitor everything I should be monitoring? Made one last night, but not sure if it has everything it should.
 

07GtS197

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What pids did you log? I think it’s timing since it’s so abrupt. If it were ignition it would break up.
 

Venompower

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Not sure if its the only issue but the front plug wire on the driver side was completely loose and wont snug down at all…
 
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ttocs

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Not sure if its the only issue but the front plug wire on the driver side was completely loose and wont snug down at all…
next time its running bad try tapping on it and see if it changes. If it doesn't try taking it off and see if it changes. But honestly any electrical connection should be able to withstand you pulliing/tugging on it and not have a problem, I would swap it out.
 

Venompower

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next time its running bad try tapping on it and see if it changes. If it doesn't try taking it off and see if it changes. But honestly any electrical connection should be able to withstand you pulliing/tugging on it and not have a problem, I would swap it out.
Yeah I’m just going to do a full set as maintenance. I’ll post a video, its crazy how loose it is…
 

Venompower

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So heres the bad plug wire:


I also think I need to replace the battery. Its down to 12.28 after sitting for a day, its got paint pen writing on the side like maybe its a junkyard special, and its only 400 cca… I havent seen any replacement battery less than 550-590 cca new.

F952CF6C-DF07-4436-A134-4CADE6F52B2F.jpeg
 

ttocs

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you could have cell starting to go bad causing problems. Its possible when it heats up that there is a bigger issue.
 

Venompower

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So just an idea...

The IMRC's are supposed to open at 3,200 rpm... right around where I'm experiencing this issue. I found this while searching:

"Most likely, the IMRC box is pulling timing by sending incorrect voltage signals to the EEC... Although the plates are physically open, the unit thinks otherwise and pulls like 9 degrees... This is the most common failure with the IMRCs... You will not pull a code if one of the cables are broken or the plates are dirty... A new IMRC box is around $150 through the parts counter at your local Ford dealer..."

Thoughts?

I'm still obviously going to replace my plug wires and check plug gap, then data log... but curious about your thoughts, the IMRC wires are still on the back of the intake.
 

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