Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

[Venompower]

Regular old hardware will do the trick. Personally, I’d go 10.9 just to keep them metric like the rest of the car, but it doesn’t change anything.

I'm going to take the sway bar to a hardware store today, any recommendations on washers, lockwashers, etc.

I'll go 10.9 as recommended, and just see what fits.

 

[Venompower]

Well add another part to the pile of stuff to install if I ever find the time, motivation, and will power lol



Found these on Facebook marketplace randomly and ended up getting them for $200 which I thought was a good deal, currently $289 at LMR plus tax.

Next up finding tailpipes, getting my AC figured out… and finally a Maximum Motorsports solid steering shaft.

Going to push the new front coil over and caster camber plates to next year.

 

[badass98svt]

Well add another part to the pile of stuff to install if I ever find the time, motivation, and will power lol

View attachment 19313

Found these on Facebook marketplace randomly and ended up getting them for $200 which I thought was a good deal, currently $289 at LMR plus tax.

Next up finding tailpipes, getting my AC figured out… and finally a Maximum Motorsports solid steering shaft.

Going to push the new front coil over and caster camber plates to next year.

While you're at it, get some MM solid rack bushings. They are a well spent $50.

 

[Venompower]

While you're at it, get some MM solid rack bushings. They are a well spent $50.

If they sell the offset bushings or whatever the Team Z K-Member uses I’ll do it.

 

[joe65]

Well add another part to the pile of stuff to install if I ever find the time, motivation, and will power lol

View attachment 19313

Found these on Facebook marketplace randomly and ended up getting them for $200 which I thought was a good deal, currently $289 at LMR plus tax.

Next up finding tailpipes, getting my AC figured out… and finally a Maximum Motorsports solid steering shaft.

Going to push the new front coil over and caster camber plates to next year.

Just put a set of those on mine last month. 1 side of the old arm came off fine, other side i had to cut the damn bolt off. the sleeves inside the bushings like to weld themselves with rust to the bolt on the older cars....but otherwise install was simple oh except one the e brake brackets broke ...rust again. yeah i've been through all the shit too...Sorry to hear about the clutch cable. I need one now, but had an easy experiece when i put one on my Mach 1.

 

[joe65]

While you're at it, get some MM solid rack bushings. They are a well spent $50.

I've got a set of those for a stock k member to sell....

 

[Venompower]

Just put a set of those on mine last month. 1 side of the old arm came off fine, other side i had to cut the damn bolt off. the sleeves inside the bushings like to weld themselves with rust to the bolt on the older cars....but otherwise install was simple oh except one the e brake brackets broke ...rust again. yeah i've been through all the shit too...Sorry to hear about the clutch cable. I need one now, but had an easy experiece when i put one on my Mach 1.

I'm going to soak them in PB Blaster and say a prayer... did you have any issue with parking brake adjustment after swapping the bracket around? The instructions advise you may have to "adjust" the parking brake after re-installation.

 

[Venompower]

So today is a good news / scary news post... getting the good news out of the way, yesterday I made sure the click connect fittings were tight and recharged my AC and the compressor engaged and the air is cold. Shout out to @07GtS197 for offering to help and trouble shoot with me.

Now for the maybe... scary news?

I did an oil change on Saturday, and saw some glitter in the oil... it's non-magnetic, and very very fine and soft... no knocks, no ticks, no fuel economy issues, no power issues....






Here's the weird picture, Oil filter had a black canister (Mobil 1) but I found red flakes in the pleats of the filter similar in color to the Valve covers?



So what's everyone's thoughts? I've already requested a oil sample kit from Blackstone... was thinking about doing a short interval oil change of the fresh stuff with easy driving, and then sending it for analysis and going from there.

 

[07GtS197]

Sounds like a good plan before you tear it all down. How’s your oil pressure?

 

[Venompower]

Sounds like a good plan before you tear it all down. How’s your oil pressure?

Edit: I assumed oil pressure was good, I'm now seeing that the gauge is a dummy gauge set to 6 psi??? Does the engine have a sensor that the PCM uses, like a PID for actual pressure that I could read on the X4?

 

[07GtS197]

Edit: I assumed oil pressure was good, I'm now seeing that the gauge is a dummy gauge set to 6 psi??? Does the engine have a sensor that the PCM uses, like a PID for actual pressure that I could read on the X4?

Not that I’m aware of. I’d put a real gauge on it to verify the pressure.

 

[Venompower]

Not that I’m aware of. I’d put a real gauge on it to verify the pressure.

Can I pull the sensor and ground it so the gauge still shows good and run an actual gauge off the stock location?

 

[07GtS197]

Can I pull the sensor and ground it so the gauge still shows good and run an actual gauge off the stock location?

I don’t see why not.

 

[Venompower]

Man… if only installing parts was as easy as buying them lol



Fellow Chicagoland Mustang Club member sent me this as well!

 

[Venompower]

Since my last post, I had scheduled an appointment to get my clutch cable sorted out by a local shop... but after the appointment I reviewed pictures right after the install compared to current and could see the firewall adjuster had threaded back in loosening the clutch cable. I tightened it back up and everything was good, so I ordered a UPR Micro Click adjuster which I cannot recommend enough. It's the only adjuster I could adjust by hand, and the locking mechanism prevents the adjuster from threading back in. I believe it's based on the Fiore design that went to Lethal Performance and now is with UPR, it's also very affordable.



I decided to keep my appointment at the performance shop, and they installed my lower rear control arms and rear sway bar. Could I have done it in the garage on jack stands, sure... but I just don't have the time right now with work and my kids. I also got COVID shortly after dropping it off at the shop, so glad I had someone else knock this mod out.




I haven't done the oil analysis yet, and probably won't until Spring. I don't believe at this point based on how the engine sounds, and drives that anything is wrong. I've been driving the car quite a bit in the last week, and noticed that I'm only making 6 psi with brief spikes to 7 psi. The kit per Procharger should be making 10 psi, they attribute this to the LT headers. They are suggesting I move from a 3.9 pulley to a 3.6 pulley. So that will probably be my first Spring project after oil analysis along with a fresh dyno tune.

 

[Venompower]

Boost Update: Found oil on the tensioner, assuming this may be getting on the belt and causing slippage. Removed the Procharger and it appears an internal seal has failed, so last night I drained the oil and boxed it up and today I will be sending it to Procharger for service/repair. It was first sold in 2006 and has never been serviced, so better to get it fixed right. Hoping it's just seals and bearings. The impeller had no play, and isn't making contact so I think it should be ok.

 

[Musturd]

Boost Update: Found oil on the tensioner, assuming this may be getting on the belt and causing slippage. Removed the Procharger and it appears an internal seal has failed, so last night I drained the oil and boxed it up and today I will be sending it to Procharger for service/repair. It was first sold in 2006 and has never been serviced, so better to get it fixed right. Hoping it's just seals and bearings. The impeller had no play, and isn't making contact so I think it should be ok.

I’m going to send mine off over winter too it’s not leaking or anything yet but it’s from 2003-2006 I can’t remember

 

[Venompower]

I’m going to send mine off over winter too it’s not leaking or anything yet but it’s from 2003-2006 I can’t remember

I shipped mine UPS and with $3,500 I’m insurance and signature at delivery it was $63 which I don’t think was bad. You need to prepay online because if you take it into a UPS store they don’t do the flat rate so they quote $98.

I’m hoping I can get out of this for $500-$600, however I know the max would be $1,698 because that’s what they quoted to convert it to a D1X lol. I think it will just be seals and maybe a bearing or two.

 

[Musturd]

I shipped mine UPS and with $3,500 I’m insurance and signature at delivery it was $63 which I don’t think was bad. You need to prepay online because if you take it into a UPS store they don’t do the flat rate so they quote $98.

I’m hoping I can get out of this for $500-$600, however I know the max would be $1,698 because that’s what they quoted to convert it to a D1X lol. I think it will just be seals and maybe a bearing or two.

Good to know . I’ve yet to contact them about a rebuild for mine . I’ve definitely been considering the the D1X upgrade for my D1SC . Car makes more then enough power already so maybe I’ll leave it alone

 

[Venompower]

Good to know . I’ve yet to contact them about a rebuild for mine . I’ve definitely been considering the the D1X upgrade for my D1SC . Car makes more then enough power already so maybe I’ll leave it alone

That's where I'm at, as a car enthusiast I always want more power... I liked the idea of upgrading so I don't have to send it off again in the future... but with a stock engine, I would have to run a big pulley to limit boost right now. Honestly a fresh P-1SC that can consistently hit 9-10 lbs of boost is probably more than enough for right now.

Quick Question: I want to have the intake manifold cover powder coated a different color, and wondered what all is involved in removal before I mess with it. Does it have a gasket, or just bolts?