Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

Michael Plummer

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FYI,
The D-1X supercharger was designed for the newer generation of cars (2018 to current). But you can do a direct swap for a D-1SC because it fits the same bracket. But if you're not maxing out your current supercharger now just swapping or upgrading to a D-1X isn't going to do much and can even lose power based on pulleys used. If you want more power, spin your current blower faster with either a smaller blower pulley or a larger crank pulley.

On my turd, I maxed out my D-1 supercharger (Oil fed which by the way is better than the D-1SC because of the superior step-up ratio and higher impeller speed). I upgraded to the F-1A supercharger and made a lot less rwhp because I couldn't spin the blower fast enough with the custom pulleys I had........basically, nothing worked. Sold the F-1A and tried a D-1X and that was another disaster because I couldn't spin it fast enough or high enough (RPM). Finally, I bought the F-1D supercharger which has the F-series transmission which is better than the D-series transmission with a D-series impeller and I'm able to spin it fast enough with no belt slippage but no dyno numbers at the moment.

Again, switching the supercharger out will not gain much unless it's maxed out.

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
 
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Venompower

Venompower

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FYI,
The D-1X supercharger was designed for the newer generation of cars (2018 to current). But you can do a direct swap for a D-1SC because it fits the same bracket. But if you're not maxing out your current supercharger now just swapping or upgrading to a D-1X isn't going to do much and can even lose power based on pulleys used. If you want more power, spin your current blower faster with either a smaller blower pulley or a larger crank pulley.

On my turd, I maxed out my D-1 supercharger (Oil fed which by the way is better than the D-1SC because of the superior step-up ratio and higher impeller speed). I upgraded to the F-1A supercharger and made a lot less rwhp because I couldn't spin the blower fast enough with the custom pulleys I had........basically, nothing worked. Sold the F-1A and tried a D-1X and that was another disaster because I couldn't spin it fast enough or high enough (RPM). Finally, I bought the F-1D supercharger which has the F-series transmission which is better than the D-series transmission with a D-series impeller and I'm able to spin it fast enough with no belt slippage but no dyno numbers at the moment.

Again, switching the supercharger out will not gain much unless it's maxed out.

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
I just got the call from Procharger. They said impeller, gears, and bearings look good. It needs both seal, and they recommended replacing the backing plate as they said the drain plug was stripped. Total damage including have it completely disassembled and ultra Sonic cleaned is $848. The backing plate really jumped the price up.

I did more research and while they could upgrade it to D-1SC or D1X, for $1,598 and $1,698… because it’s belt driven is have to run like a 4.5” pulley and under drive it which I didn’t want to do. Definitely a negative of a belt driven supercharger compared to a turbo.

Went ahead and provided my card number, hope I get it back soon. I believe the leaking oil contributed to my lack of boost… I’m going to degrease the pulleys and clean the belt, if I still don’t see more boost I’ll move to a 3.6 pulley.
 

Musturd

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FYI,
The D-1X supercharger was designed for the newer generation of cars (2018 to current). But you can do a direct swap for a D-1SC because it fits the same bracket. But if you're not maxing out your current supercharger now just swapping or upgrading to a D-1X isn't going to do much and can even lose power based on pulleys used. If you want more power, spin your current blower faster with either a smaller blower pulley or a larger crank pulley.

On my turd, I maxed out my D-1 supercharger (Oil fed which by the way is better than the D-1SC because of the superior step-up ratio and higher impeller speed). I upgraded to the F-1A supercharger and made a lot less rwhp because I couldn't spin the blower fast enough with the custom pulleys I had........basically, nothing worked. Sold the F-1A and tried a D-1X and that was another disaster because I couldn't spin it fast enough or high enough (RPM). Finally, I bought the F-1D supercharger which has the F-series transmission which is better than the D-series transmission with a D-series impeller and I'm able to spin it fast enough with no belt slippage but no dyno numbers at the moment.

Again, switching the supercharger out will not gain much unless it's maxed out.

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
Great info . Wish I could find a 8 rib setup for my D1sc
 

Michael Plummer

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Great info . Wish I could find a 8 rib setup for my D1sc
You can have them made. Call Lee at Auto Specialities Performance at 877-928-8678, he can make any pulley except the A/C clutch pulley (I believe). Rock Auto still sells the Ford 8-rib A/C hub with clutch (Part number YB-542) or Ford part number F7UZ-19D784-AA

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
 
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Michael Plummer

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I just got the call from Procharger. They said impeller, gears, and bearings look good. It needs both seal, and they recommended replacing the backing plate as they said the drain plug was stripped. Total damage including have it completely disassembled and ultra Sonic cleaned is $848. The backing plate really jumped the price up.

I did more research and while they could upgrade it to D-1SC or D1X, for $1,598 and $1,698… because it’s belt driven is have to run like a 4.5” pulley and under drive it which I didn’t want to do. Definitely a negative of a belt driven supercharger compared to a turbo.

Went ahead and provided my card number, hope I get it back soon. I believe the leaking oil contributed to my lack of boost… I’m going to degrease the pulleys and clean the belt, if I still don’t see more boost I’ll move to a 3.6 pulley.
You can try having a blower pulley made from Auto Specialties Performance with a flatter top on the ribs to aid in belt traction.
pulley2.jpeg


I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
 

Musturd

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You can have them made. Call Lee at Auto Specialities Performance at 877-928-8678, he can make any pulley except the A/C hub pulley (I believe). Rock Auto still sells the Ford 8-rib A/C hub with brushes (I'll look for the part number and post later).

I hope this helps
Michael Plummer
Legend. When I was searching for info on this ,It was one of your posts I found from years ago on modded mustangs I think . I was wondering if you were still active on here . Thanks for the info . Definitely would like to go 8 rib over winter .
 

Michael Plummer

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Personally, I would buy the clutch pulley for the A/C now before they're all gone.......it's an old truck part. I'm rarely on forums anymore except for the Corral (Engine Management Section for the Pro-M EMS.) and once in a while on here.

Good luck
Michael Plummer
 

Musturd

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Personally, I would buy the clutch pulley for the A/C now before they're all gone.......it's an old truck part. I'm rarely on forums anymore except for the Corral (Engine Management Section for the Pro-M EMS.) and once in a while on here.

Good luck
Michael Plummer

Yea I’m Goona try and get one from local parts stores tomorrow
 
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Venompower

Venompower

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The Procharger is on its way back to me. I don't want to buy a new belt yet, because if I need to go to a 3.6 pulley, I will need a different belt. Plan is to wash the belt in soapy water, and then use brake clean and a toothbrush on the pulleys... any other suggestions?
 
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Venompower

Venompower

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Man... the cold weather here has gotten me lazy. The Procharger was reinstalled, and a small vacuum leak was found. It sounded great for a minute or two and then started to make a slight grinding noise again. Shut it off and started to remove the blower... got lazy again, and just pulled it and messed with washers on the bracket this past weekend. Got it reinstalled and drove to Walmart, no more grinding noise, belt alignment looks good, however on the one good second gear pull I made... I kept getting little hesitations, it just didn't seem to pull super hard, and had what felt like flat spots in power delivery. No pinging, no knocking, so I'm assuming it's spark related....

Going to pull the TR6's to check gap and condition and then also test my coil packs. I'm obviously guessing but I think one of these is the issue. The wires are brand new FRPP red plug wires. The coil packs are original. I'm open to any other thoughts as well.
 

Musturd

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Man... the cold weather here has gotten me lazy. The Procharger was reinstalled, and a small vacuum leak was found. It sounded great for a minute or two and then started to make a slight grinding noise again. Shut it off and started to remove the blower... got lazy again, and just pulled it and messed with washers on the bracket this past weekend. Got it reinstalled and drove to Walmart, no more grinding noise, belt alignment looks good, however on the one good second gear pull I made... I kept getting little hesitations, it just didn't seem to pull super hard, and had what felt like flat spots in power delivery. No pinging, no knocking, so I'm assuming it's spark related....

Going to pull the TR6's to check gap and condition and then also test my coil packs. I'm obviously guessing but I think one of these is the issue. The wires are brand new FRPP red plug wires. The coil packs are original. I'm open to any other thoughts as well.

I’d check plugs first like you said . The factory coil packs seem to just work forever
 
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Venompower

Venompower

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I’d check plugs first like you said . The factory coil packs seem to just work forever
Everybody recommends the NGK TR6 but I have also seen a lot of posts about having stumbles and misses with them as well. Thinking about trying Autolite 103's next.
 

Musturd

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Everybody recommends the NGK TR6 but I have also seen a lot of posts about having stumbles and misses with them as well. Thinking about trying Autolite 103's next.
I ran tr6’s gapped at 0.28 on my cobra with a Vortech
 

Musturd

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I think I gapped mine at .32... if the gap didn't open up a bit. Maybe I'll try .30 and see what happens.
I prefer a wider gap like .32 myself if it works . The wider the gap the better .
 
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Venompower

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So, I checked both Coil Packs and they measured within the correct ranges and the measurements were consistent within each coil pack and compared to one another.

I have heard good and some annoying things about the NGK TR6. Some people swear by them, and others reported low RPM misfires and stumbles. So, this time around I purchased a set of Autolite AR103's which I will gap at .32. Hoping that this solves the slight hesitation and flat spots I experienced the last time I took it out.

Since the Procharger leaked oil into the charge pipe, I will also be cleaning my VMP HPX MAF sensor, and likely ordering a new one over winter if cleaning also improves driveability. It's raining today but I'll also be datalogging with the SCT X4 once the weather clears.

It's nice to finally have things to do that don't require lifting the vehicle up or removing belts and superchargers lol.

Edit: The Autolite AR103's were already pregapped to .32 score!
 
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07GtS197

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Clean it up and run it to track down where it’s coming from. It looks like it could be coming from the head gasket area so it could be a head gasket.
 

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