Casper the Cobra - Procharged 96' Cobra

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Venompower

Venompower

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the only thing I really do not like about it is if the top is closed it locks the drawers. I have moved toolboxes before to know why they do this but it annoys the hell out of me when I put some stuff on the top and then can't open a drawer.
I mean you could put stuff on the top with the lid open...
 
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Venompower

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2-AE72-F8-E-6072-459-E-83-C5-AB18126-E0-BF0.jpg


Can anybody tell me what this is for?
 
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Venompower

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So this past weekend was pretty productive, on National Mustang Day I went and got a set of plates... couldn’t do anything that evening but it felt good to have insurance and title and registration. It was interesting the old man next to me was registering his Mustang as well.

Sunday I got the Anderson Power Pipe installed, plugged in the IAT which had been unplugged and then cleared the stored codes. I then fired it up, and found that I still have some idle issues, checked codes to see if anything had come back and found that I still have the P0412 - Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit, and P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1.

Took it for a drive around the block, and did a couple small pulls in first and it was pretty quick... so I'm moving in the right direction. I had a couple tires that were really low to the point of making the car pull to the right, so once around the block and then back to the driveway. I put air in the low tires, and then cleaned the MAF and adjusted the air filter location. Crawled under the car to inspect the clutch cable at the clutch fork and found this:

A178-C584-1-DC7-4-E37-860-E-A6-EC7-BDEA7-D3.jpg


I had to go pick up my kids as my wife was helping a family member, so I didn’t get much farther. It appears the 02 sensors are disconnected? I would have expected way more codes... maybe something else is going on but it seems weird... thoughts? They appear zip tied to the clutch cable.
 

lwarrior1016

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That definitely looks like oxygen sensor connectors. Look at both of the up stream sensors in the exhaust and follow their wire to see where they go. They might have the harness routed wrong though, because that’s going to be bank 2, and your code is for bank 1.
 
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Venompower

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That definitely looks like oxygen sensor connectors. Look at both of the up stream sensors in the exhaust and follow their wire to see where they go. They might have the harness routed wrong though, because that’s going to be bank 2, and your code is for bank 1.

That’s the confusing part... no rear 02 sensors as it’s got long tubes, it has an AEM wideband 02 gauge, and if you follow those white connectors back they lead to each 02 sensor on each collector. I had some family stuff come up last night, but hopefully by the end of the week I can jack it up and figure out what the hell is going on?
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s the confusing part... no rear 02 sensors as it’s got long tubes, it has an AEM wideband 02 gauge, and if you follow those white connectors back they lead to each 02 sensor on each collector. I had some family stuff come up last night, but hopefully by the end of the week I can jack it up and figure out what the hell is going on?
Did they plug the rear oxygen sensor connectors into the front sensors by chance?
 
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For the price I paid I have to be ok with it lol, that being said you are absolutely right. Every time I get something taken care of, I find something new.
 

joemomma

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That's part of the fun....I think lol. Every time I get in to something with mine, I find something else. Always fun coming in behind someone else's work, especially electrical.
 
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That's part of the fun....I think lol. Every time I get in to something with mine, I find something else. Always fun coming in behind someone else's work, especially electrical.
Before I jack everything back up and get to deep, I'm going to connect my scan tool and do live data to see if I'm getting readings from the 02 sensors. Most of the work on the car is sound, but I think the most recent owners have been over their heads.
 

joe65

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yes, keeps us busy and learning new stuff all the time, right?
 
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Thought it might be easier to just post a cold start to get feedback on what everyone hears... still don’t think it sounds right for a 4.6 DOHC with BBK LT Headers, BBK Off-Road X-Pipe, and Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers.

Now I’m still chasing my idle issues, and I know I have an exhaust leak at least between the x-pipe and driver side muffler... but what are your thoughts?

 
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Venompower

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Ok so no arcing seen in the dark with the engine running... I did plug in my scan tool and here is the live data, can people smarter than me give me some guidance.

DTC_CNT 3
FUELSYS1 OL-DRIVE
FUELSYS2 - -
LOAD_PCT (%) 24.7
ECT (Degrees) 89
SHRTFT1 (%) 0.0
LONGFT1 (%) 0.0
SHRTFT2 (%) 0.0
LONGFT2 (%) 0.0
RPM 1026
VSS (MPH) 0
SPARKADV (Degrees) 16.5
IAT (Degrees Fahrenheit) 57
MAF (lbs/s) 0.02
TP (%) 19.2
AIR_STAT Off
02SLOC B1S12 - - B2S12 - -
02B1S1 (V) 0.000
SHRTFT B1S1 (%) 0.0
02B1S2 (V) 0.000
SHRTFT B1S2 (%) 0.0

My interpretation is that my MAF isn’t reading correctly and is a little low. It appears the 02 sensors are not plugged in and therefore I have no fuel trims. IAT looks good, Spark Advance looks good... vacuum on the boost gauge held steady at 22, so no apparent large vacuum leaks. I’m thinking I need to figure out where the connectors are for the 02’s and get them plugged back in and see how the live data changes, and then look into my MAF numbers more.
 
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Yep oxygen sensors are unplugged and throttle position is too high. Throttle position should be 0 at idle.
Assuming the TPS measures the angle of the throttle blade. Would you start with adjusting the idle screw, and then test the TPS or test the TPS first?
 

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I had a similar problem with mine where when the motor got hot the tps would start to show 5-7%. I replaced the sensor and it did the exact same thing, I finally figured out it was the harness going to it by jiggling it and watching the numbers change. Get technical with it, go jiggle it....
 
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Venompower

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I had a similar problem with mine where when the motor got hot the tps would start to show 5-7%. I replaced the sensor and it did the exact same thing, I finally figured out it was the harness going to it by jiggling it and watching the numbers change. Get technical with it, go jiggle it....
Ahhh the technical jiggle, I will absolutely try this before doing anything more intensive for sure lol
 

lwarrior1016

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The tps should go back to 0 every time the key is cycled. You can’t adjust these like the older ones. Other than a faulty sensor or connector, it shouldn’t be showing that.

Maybe the idle screw has been adjusted too far and the tps will always show that? Have you tried unplugging the IAC with the car running and see what it does? It should idle way down or even die with it unplugged.
 

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