Chassis matters…

Daryl

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Ok, back to my chassis and suspension! Here we go again…

1. Bolt-in vs weld-in full length subframe connectors? I have the bolt-in. Is there a huge difference between the two?;

2. Torque arm and Panhard Bar? Pricey stuff but are they worth it? I’m considering both kits from MM and will have them professionally installed if I do pull the trigger.
 

weendoggy

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I have weld-in full length subframe MM connectors. I'm more of a solid fit person and thus weld components I know don't have to be removed for other work. I also have the MM PB with lower poly and upper "stock" arms with new bushings. I doubt I'll install the TA and I do track the car a lot and don't think I'm missing a lot, other than HP and that's being taken care of with a Coyote. :) Both full frame connectors and PB made a huge difference in handling with a solid axle car. I usually drive IRS cars. Also have coil-overs on all 4. jmo
 

garrittpwl

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I have to say, I just installed Stifflers sub-frame connectors and FIT system. If you're handy with a welder and got a full day to kill. They are the best. Easy fit, pinch weld reinforcement, pre-painted and areas that need welded are taped off so you can just etch in once you're done. Worth it for less than 500 bucks.
 

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ttocs

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I never heard anything good about the bolt in. I was always told to weld them or not to bother. I have a different type to go around my side exhaust by spintech and they make it easy to jack the car up one side at a time no problem.
 

Adfalenski

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It doesn’t matter how tight you tighten bolts, the force of chassis flex will loosen the bolted joints and allow movement. Get them welded in by a custom chassis shop.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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It doesn’t matter how tight you tighten bolts, the force of chassis flex will loosen the bolted joints and allow movement. Get them welded in by a custom chassis shop.
In process! I have a standing appointment with my guy in town. He asked to wait until the rain stops. It stopped today, but hell, I don’t have the heart to ask him to bang it out on New Years Eve. Not that he wouldn’t cuz he’s always been a great help to me. Early next week!
 

Jakespeeds

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I never heard anything good about the bolt in. I was always told to weld them or not to bother. I have a different type to go around my side exhaust by spintech and they make it easy to jack the car up one side at a time no problem.
Could you tell me which ones you are using? I have looking for a set to go around me side exhaust.

Jake
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Considering the MM panhard bar, too, actually. I’ve got new Upper Control Arms with rubber bushings and given how I drive it, I don’t think the Torque Arm will be necessary.
 

Jakespeeds

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Well the side exhaust is coming off. The MM panhard is already on. So I will have to see what it takes to get the Flowmaster stock type exhaust back on. Then it will either be put up for sale or subframe connectors.

Jake
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Well the side exhaust is coming off. The MM panhard is already on. So I will have to see what it takes to get the Flowmaster stock type exhaust back on. Then it will either be put up for sale or subframe connectors.

Jake
Jake,
How do you like the difference with the Panhard Bar? Was it difficult to install? I noticed it’s bolt-in. Hmmm… like the subframe connectors, would it be better to weld in?

Hope you’re doing well!
 

Jakespeeds

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The panhard bar made a big difference in my car. It eliminated the snap oversteer that the car did when getting back on the gas midway through a corner. For me it was not bolt in because I had to remake my custom lower shock mount. There are a lot of measurements to make before you start. Worth every penny.

Things on a car are almost always better welded in rather than bolted. But in this case the part of the "frame" that you would be welding to I do not think you would be do yourself any favors. The MM kit is well thought out and you are given spacers that keep you from deforming the thin metal frame when its bolted in. If you were going to weld it then I would want to engineer the mounting differently.

Jake
 

weendoggy

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The panhard bar made a big difference in my car. It eliminated the snap oversteer that the car did when getting back on the gas midway through a corner. For me it was not bolt in because I had to remake my custom lower shock mount. There are a lot of measurements to make before you start. Worth every penny.

Things on a car are almost always better welded in rather than bolted. But in this case the part of the "frame" that you would be welding to I do not think you would be do yourself any favors. The MM kit is well thought out and you are given spacers that keep you from deforming the thin metal frame when its bolted in. If you were going to weld it then I would want to engineer the mounting differently.

Jake
I agree on this. The PB bracket is better bolted in unless you're making a direct track dedicated car and plan how to get other items repaired if needed. The spacers take up the space in the "tube structure" and I've been tracking my car for 3 years without movement or bolts being loose. Benefit is being able to get it out of the way if you need to do some work, although not necessary to do things back there including dropping the rear end assy. The frame stiffeners are a bit different and don't pose an issue when installed. jmo
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Result!

Subframes are now welded in. I’m going to run it with the welded in subframe connectors and feel the difference. Then decide if I still want to do the panhard bar and/or Torque Arm. Both seem super involved based on reading the instructions on MM website.
I will call my suspension specialist, discuss it with him and see: 1. If he’s even willing to do it, and 2. Cost
 

Makoto

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through the floor subframe connectors. beefier than any other system and the bottom of the car stays clean.


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Daryl

Daryl

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I have received MM Panhard bar, rear sway bar kit and TA. Just waiting for my truck repairs (cosmetic) so I can take the car to the muffler shop appointment Monday. And, While at the muffler shop, he’s also going to install Fel-Pro header gaskets and ARP bolts. Have to leave the car overnight so it’s cold in order for him to work on it.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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after this, it’s on to the front suspension. Currently have the Eibach Pro-Plus sway bar, springs and shocks. Wondering what, if any, worthwhile improvements or upgrades are available for street/spirited street driving applications. Definitely considering the yellow Koni shocks.
 

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