Clutch and Flywheel updates

[Dunecrazy]

I am planning on buying a new clutch, flywheel and output shaft/throwout bearing for my 94 5.0 with T5 trans. What else would you recommend to replace at this time? My car is shaking/vibrating at random rpms too.

brand options? Best clutch for street driving and future decent HP upgrades. I picked up a BBK clutch adjust kit and cable too, not installed yet.

thanks for the input!

ps i have a trickflow intake, is that worht the power to put in, or should i sell it?

 

[lutter94]

Make sure the cable you plan to install is OEM Ford or Maximum Motorsports (same cable), all the others are inferior and won't hold up. Does the adjust kit include a firewall adjuster and double hook quadrant? Might as well replace the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, and bearing retainer also.

I installed the Exedy Mach 350 Stage 1 Clutch Master Kit from American Muscle. It's a good kit, I like the clutch. Some say its a heavy spring, but it doesn't bother me. It comes with a throw out bearing, and pilot bearing.

Rear Main seal is easy to replace if you're already in there, and its got some miles on it....

 

[Mustanger]

Good advice above...I like the Ford OEM GT clutch or the King Cobra one ...Easy to use not too heavy.

 

[Dugzy33]

I just finished this on my 95
someone had already replaced the alumin bearing retainer with a steel one, so i need to send it back to LMR

if you dont have many engine mods all you need is a stock or at most stage 1 clutch from the brand of your choice.
I bought a spec. still in the breaking period.

get a factory ford flywheel.

 

[lutter94]

I should specify that the Exedy kit includes a Ford Racing 50 oz flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts. I don't remember if the TOB or the pilot bearing was OEM ford or not.

 

[Dugzy33]

I should specify that the Exedy kit includes a Ford Racing 50 oz flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts. I don't remember if the TOB or the pilot bearing was OEM ford or not.

I was going to buy that kit but it didn't have the ford tob, but did have the ford flywheel.
I just bought all my stuff separately and now I have an extra generic tob,
If I was 20 something I could put it in my ear as jewelry! JK
Also everything said above is good advise.
Doug

 

[Dunecrazy]

I have the BBK clutch cable kit w/firewall adjuster. I am looking for a kit that gives me everything i need.

Clutch, flywheel, bolts, tob(throw out bearing), is the tob and pilot bearing the same?
i also may replace the clutch tob arm too?

any advice in the brand or where to buy this?

thanks for the info!

 

[lutter94]

Throw out bearing is what pushes the pressure plate to release the clutch. It slides on the bearing retainer. The pilot bearing is in the end of your crankshaft, the input shaft of the transmission "rides" in it. If you replace your clutch fork (tob arm as you called it), also replace the pivot stud too

 

[Dunecrazy]

How much should i spend on a "kit" or individual to get a good Clutch, Flywheel, fork, TOB, etc.

can someone explain to me what i need to replace when i go through the clutch on my car?

i just havent seen a full description of what needs to go into rebuilding this part of my car.

example:
clutch
flywheel
bolts for clutch and flywheel
throw out bearing
pivot joint?
bearing retainer?
Pilot bearing?
do you replace an input shaft?

thanks for the dummy descriptions!!!

 

[g36 monkey]

Alright the things I would do if I was that far into it:

Clutch - All you need here is a stage one or maybe stage 2 from any of the respective brands. I have used SPEC, but RAM and Exedy are great. I have heard people have good experience with the Zoom (I believe this is an OEM replacement from parts store) and generally most clutches are good for at least a few mods.

Flywheel - If you have time on your side, you could just get this resurfaced at a machine shop for say $10 or so. If that is not an option, you could look into upgrading to an aluminum one to shave some weight, or just stick to OEM ford.
I would go with ARP for the flywheel and clutch bolts

Throw out bearing needs to be a motorcraft part. Some people do get lucky with aftermarket, but that is few and far between.

The pivot joint/arm should be replaced. Mine fell apart around 200 miles after doing a clutch. Terrible feeling when you look down and seeing the fork sitting below the dust shield.

Pilot bearing should be replaced, I would stick with OEM ford here as well, though it doesn't get the bad reputation like the throwout bearing from aftermarket sources. To replace this, hammer bread into your input shaft until it pushes out. Usually takes about 6 pieces of merita.

I would throw away/return the clutch cable you bought. I had the steeda one and it snapped in about 2 weeks. Replaced with OEM ford and never had an issue. If I were to do it all again, I would just buy the whole kit from Maximum Motorsports.

Input shaft should not need replacing.

And as Lutter said, I would do the rear main seal since you are that far into it. Be careful when doing this, a lot of people screw it up then just have to go back into it again in a couple weeks time.

It's a clutch job, don't overthink it