Clutch Break In/Replacement Suggestions

[Terrorist 5.0]

Hi everyone, yesterday I began the process of changing out my clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. I have everything apart and am ready to put it back together tomorrow. I know that during clutch break in, you can’t really have fun so to speak, but would a pull in a stock 5.0 that starts when you already have the clutch out really going to mess up a new clutch? Also, I am going to be using some sort of thread sealer on the flywheel bolts. I have read in multiple places that the holes allow oil through. Just for reference, I am using the McLeod street level clutch and pressure plate, and lightweight SVE billet flywheel. Other than these questions, wish me luck, and thank you all. I will come back if I need suggestions or have questions at a later point in assembling the drivetrain back together. I am excited to see how it does after.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Better safe than sorry. You might be able to get away with a "pull" after a couple hundred miles at least, but those miles need to be easy going city miles with a lot of clutch action. They can't be highway miles with hardly any clutch action. It's like bedding in the friction materials of brake pads. Same concept. That clutch material needs to transfer onto the flywheel in an easy going manner.

If in doubt on the flywheel bolts, just use thread sealant. Can't hurt to use it in any case.

 

[Joeminnesota]

Most clutch break-in instructions call for 500 miles of “normal driving” or 1000 clutch cycles .. so yes a mix of around town and highway. I wouldn’t be afraid to do pulls w/a stock 5.0 after 100 miles, but the main thing is not to strap it to a dyno during break-in (or slicks / sticky tires).

The pressure plate bolts should be clean and dry and used with RED LOCTITE and not any RTV type sealant. The thread locker is there so they don’t come loose - ever - until you break them loose again someday. The crank flange is outside of the rear main seal, so there is NOT oil passing through anywhere there. That’s not accurate.

Clean your flywheel & pressure plate faces with brake clean before installing., so they are clean and dry.

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Most clutch break-in instructions call for 500 miles of “normal driving” or 1000 clutch cycles .. so yes a mix of around town and highway. I wouldn’t be afraid to do pulls w/a stock 5.0 after 100 miles, but the main thing is not to strap it to a dyno during break-in (or slicks / sticky tires).

The pressure plate bolts should be clean and dry and used with RED LOCTITE and not any RTV type sealant. The thread locker is there so they don’t come loose - ever - until you break them loose again someday. The crank flange is outside of the rear main seal, so there is NOT oil passing through anywhere there. That’s not accurate.

Clean your flywheel & pressure plate faces with brake clean before installing., so they are clean and dry.

To be honest with you, I used blue loctite, opinions aside, I personally believe unless the manual specifies, proper torque should hold the bolt. Nevertheless, I thought it is common knowledge that 302’s require thread sealant on the flywheel bolt holes. The rear main seal is a separate seal entirely.

 

[Joeminnesota]

Oh - understood. 5.0 and not 4.6 motor. Was not aware that was exposed to oil, but read it is not under pressure. I’m sure you’re just fine with some blue threadlocker.