Clutch cable broke…

Cochise

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The saga continues!!!

Just picked up my car from the tuner (3 hours away) and a mile down the road this happens.

Luckily the 200+ Miles was mostly highway and I was able to rev match.

I have found a couple videos/how-to’s on clutch cable installs. Any one here have any hints/tips/tricks from personal experience? One of my friends mentioned something in regards to the throw-out bearing and how it could be damaged if the clutch cable isn’t adjusted corrected after install? Any one have insight on this?

Thanks!

#revmatch
 

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cobrajeff96

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It's an easy thing to do. First time doing it might seem a bit hard but really it's not.

I'd say instead of only replacing the cable, try also to replace the plastic clutch quadrant and get a firewall adjuster screw. It's only a matter of time before the factory pedal quadrant's teeth shear right off and leave you stranded (again). Really any of the firewall adjuster screws are good, but try to get one with the internal ball bearing that clicks instead of one that freely spins.

Just make sure that when everything's back together, the throwout has a slight amount of preload onto the pressure plate. It's needs to be touching the pressure plate fingers at all times. Get a new pivot ball stud.

Might as well replace the TOB, they're cheap. If you replace the clutch/flywheel, replace the crank pilot bearing.

Any time a new TOB is installed, the teardrop end of it faces towards the bellhousing inspection cover, away from the input shaft.

Use high temp red grease on the following areas:

- Face of throwout bearing (a very light film)
- Splines of the input shaft (a very light film)
- The pivot stud inside the bellhousing (generous amount)
- The input shaft guide tube that the TOB rides on (a light film)
- The backside of the fork lever where the TOB sits in (a generous amount)
- The bevled hole in the fork lever that the cable end sits in (a generous amount)
 

07GtS197

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While I agree with the above, I don’t think it’s a good idea to replace the tob unless it’s making noise. He won’t have to drop the transmission to replace the cable so why go through more work to replace something that may not need to be replaced.
 

07GtS197

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Not necessarily. It’s about how it was driven. All I’m saying is that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
 

Maximum95

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If you want to get the car back on the road ASAP, the clutch cable install is very straight forward.

But as mentioned above, does the car have OEM adjustable quadrant, or aftermarket firewall adjuster?

Either way, you won't have a problem changing the cable itself. 30 minute job. Very straight forward.
 

Michael Plummer

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cobrajeff96

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60k miles would be the upper limit that I'd ever be ok with on a TOB, regardless of easy miles and/or hard.
 
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Cochise

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Hey ya'll. Thanks for the input. I'm going to just replace the cable for now. I have receipts for the clutch from the previous owner. It was repalced about 20K miles ago. I've only put about 4K miles on the car since I've owned it (track car, road coarses). I do occasionally drive it to work but haven't been able to the past 4 months due to the timing chain issue.

I'm going to go with just the cable for now. I think when the clutch goes, I'd like to do a hydraulic setup, especially since its a road course car. Hopefully that can wait until I swap in a coyote.
 

cobrajeff96

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Go with Modern Driveline for the hydraulic setup. From what I've researched, there is no better way. They make one specifically for the SN95 and it's pretty impressive. I've already installed the hydraulic throwout bearing part of it, just need to install the inner cabin portion of it when I get the car back over the engine.
 

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Chip66

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60k miles would be the upper limit that I'd ever be ok with on a TOB, regardless of easy miles and/or hard.
Wow, you must be hard on them. I always change them when I change the clutch. The lowest miles I've had on a clutch at the end of life was 110K.

Don't abuse them by holding the clutch in at long stops and they'll typically last as long as the clutch.
----
To the original question, the throw-out bearing can be prematurely worn if the clutch cable is over-tightened and it stays engaged to the clutch while driving. This isn't a problem with the self-adjusting factory quadrant.

Why no one has ever made an aluminum or steel clone of the factory quadrant is beyond me. With a factory clutch, they were good for about 200K miles until the plastic gave way. They kept the adjustment near perfect all the time and were maintenance-free. I still see them on the 6-cyl cars in the salvage yard.
 
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The saga continues!!!

Just picked up my car from the tuner (3 hours away) and a mile down the road this happens.

Luckily the 200+ Miles was mostly highway and I was able to rev match.

I have found a couple videos/how-to’s on clutch cable installs. Any one here have any hints/tips/tricks from personal experience? One of my friends mentioned something in regards to the throw-out bearing and how it could be damaged if the clutch cable isn’t adjusted corrected after install? Any one have insight on this?

Thanks!

#revmatch
I have a stock cable for you if you need it? Just let know bud. I also have the stock ratcheting mechanism in perfect condition. If you pay shipping I'll give the cable for nothing to help you out buddy. Just let me know where to send it? Thanks
 
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Cochise

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I have a stock cable for you if you need it? Just let know bud. I also have the stock ratcheting mechanism in perfect condition. If you pay shipping I'll give the cable for nothing to help you out buddy. Just let me know where to send it? Thanks
Hey! I’m just now seeing this!

I already got my FRPP set up but I really appreciate it. Thanks!
 

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