Clutch replacement or not?

331gt

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debating about changing the clutch while i have the engine out. engine going in will be a fairly standard HCI 331 (unported Twisted Wedge heads,e303, systemax 2 intake, 60lbs, ~9.2 compression) with a vortech, i have a 3.33 and 3.12 pulley. im planning on using the 3.12. so that's it for the pertinent power info, im not exactly sure what that will make, sounds like 400-500 rwtq is a decent estimated range (470-570 ish crank?) right now i have a SPEC stage 1. this was used in a setup with the same long block minus the blower. made 305rwhp/336 rwtq. the friction plate was pretty well done. barely any material left. considering less than 15k on that clutch with street driving only, it did not appear to hold up well. i dont think my driving habits are particularly tough on clutches, but this amount of wear makes me wonder. the pressure plate seems fine, i did not see heat cracks or glazing like on the pressure plate (replacing the OEM iron with a billet steel). contemplating replacing the friction plate alone vs entire new clutch rated for more TQ than the SPEC stage 1 (rated from SPEC at 410 ft lbs). it was recommended to me to leave this level of a clutch in since im running the factory T5, with the theory being that since the engine will easily produce enough power to break this trans, some clutch slippage might prolong the life of the trans. and yes, the best answer is to replace the trans, but for now, budget constraints wont allow that. itll probably happen eventually but for now another few grand on a trans just isnt happening. already well over budget since i ended up needing a new block and got a DART, ha! so while i understand the point of using this clutch to help prolong the life of the trans, i also dont want to be replacing friction plates every 10k miles or so. this seems like sort of a half assed solution personally. and yea, there's also the thought of "well just keep your foot off the gas and baby it" but we all know how hard that can be. while i dont abuse my vehicles, im also not building a blown 331 just to meander around town like im in a minivan ha. just bouncing some ideas off anyone here who may have some input. the car will be only a street car- it has never been on a strip in the 17 years ive owned it and i dont see that changing. i dont abuse it, but im also now stepping into a power lever a decent amount beyond what the OEM parts are designed for. any input is welcome!!
 

Benni614

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debating about changing the clutch while i have the engine out. engine going in will be a fairly standard HCI 331 (unported Twisted Wedge heads,e303, systemax 2 intake, 60lbs, ~9.2 compression) with a vortech, i have a 3.33 and 3.12 pulley. im planning on using the 3.12. so that's it for the pertinent power info, im not exactly sure what that will make, sounds like 400-500 rwtq is a decent estimated range (470-570 ish crank?) right now i have a SPEC stage 1. this was used in a setup with the same long block minus the blower. made 305rwhp/336 rwtq. the friction plate was pretty well done. barely any material left. considering less than 15k on that clutch with street driving only, it did not appear to hold up well. i dont think my driving habits are particularly tough on clutches, but this amount of wear makes me wonder. the pressure plate seems fine, i did not see heat cracks or glazing like on the pressure plate (replacing the OEM iron with a billet steel). contemplating replacing the friction plate alone vs entire new clutch rated for more TQ than the SPEC stage 1 (rated from SPEC at 410 ft lbs). it was recommended to me to leave this level of a clutch in since im running the factory T5, with the theory being that since the engine will easily produce enough power to break this trans, some clutch slippage might prolong the life of the trans. and yes, the best answer is to replace the trans, but for now, budget constraints wont allow that. itll probably happen eventually but for now another few grand on a trans just isnt happening. already well over budget since i ended up needing a new block and got a DART, ha! so while i understand the point of using this clutch to help prolong the life of the trans, i also dont want to be replacing friction plates every 10k miles or so. this seems like sort of a half assed solution personally. and yea, there's also the thought of "well just keep your foot off the gas and baby it" but we all know how hard that can be. while i dont abuse my vehicles, im also not building a blown 331 just to meander around town like im in a minivan ha. just bouncing some ideas off anyone here who may have some input. the car will be only a street car- it has never been on a strip in the 17 years ive owned it and i dont see that changing. i dont abuse it, but im also now stepping into a power lever a decent amount beyond what the OEM parts are designed for. any input is welcome!!
Having a clutch to withstand what ur cars torque is essential. I mean it seems like u know what u r talking about and direction ur going.... I always replace everything and if affordable rebuild the Trans to. Having the ability to transfer the power u made to the floor is often overlooked and then eventually something breaks.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

joemomma

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I understand the budget points for sure. With that in mind, I'm of the mindset that if you're going to be putting down that much power, you had better have something behind it to hold it. Putting a clutch in now seems much easier than later.
 

331gt

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i traded emails with someone at SPEC, im going to use the SPEC pressure plate i already have and use a stage 2+ disk. we'll see how it goes. i think the clutch disk will fare better than the stage 1 organic disk that i took out. regarding the remaining life of the trans, ill just have to see how it goes. im not out powershifting or launching from 6k on sticky tires at a strip or anything. im sure many people have run OEM T'5s with blown HCI cars and had them last provided they didnt beat the hell out of them every time the car was driven.
 

joe65

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I've been living with the spec stage 2 clutch since i bought my car in June. Not a big fan of it. I'm not sure what flywheel is on mine but the clutch is an "all right now" kind of engagement. I had to put a firewall adjuster and quadrant in mine so i could adjust engagement. It was all all right now right as the clutch was just starting to engage. drove me nuts.
 

Venompower

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I understand the budget points for sure. With that in mind, I'm of the mindset that if you're going to be putting down that much power, you had better have something behind it to hold it. Putting a clutch in now seems much easier than later.
Agree, also you're never going to have an easier time replacing the clutch then when the engine is already out.
 

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