Coil overs 101

You didn't mention how you plan to use the car. Drag race? Auto X? Roadcourse? Rally? That will make a huge difference on spring rates and what kit to go with. Also depends if you are just doing it for stance because stance will make her dance. <--- However that has not been my experience.

Good thread though I am sure there is tons of info on google but easier to start one when you can't find answers to specific questions you might have. I for one am considering going to coil overs but mainly for a lower stance but I already hate how stiff it rides on H&R SS; I might just be getting old. 22 going on 40.

 

Before every member on here wastes there time typing a bunch of paragraphs for you, did you try using the search button?

http://www.sn95forums.com/search.php?searchid=1532354

For a street/auto-x oriented car, i'd run a 300-350lbs spring rate in the front and a 225-300 lbs spring in the rear.
As far as piecing it together giving more adjustability/tuning... that is not true. Most coilover sleeves have the same amount of adjustability. What matters is spring length, camber plates, and whether your shocks are adjustable. That's what will give you the most tuning out of your coilover system.

 

I just searched "coilovers" within post titles.

Yes. Those are the 4 major components that make up a coilover.

Make sure the sleeves come with the adjustment rings as well as the upper spring perches.
You can get a coilover kit for pretty cheap. This is what the kit will look like:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange-Engineering/873/S6001/10002/-1?parentProductId=763049

 

That's up to you. Some people just do coil overs up front while others buy a kit for the rear also. The rear coil over kits slip over the shocks just like the front kit does on the struts. Most shocks and struts are not all the same diameter around so you will need to decide on a shock and strut combo before your coil over kit. The sleeves for mm kits are differant sizes to fit differant struts. Upr coil over kit is some what more universal but it doesn't work with all struts or shocks. Not all struts and shocks can handle the abuse of coil over kits.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

 

my car is mostly a street car so rear coilovers aren't really necessary or recommended. i run a 12x250lb spring up front with H&R supersport springs in the rear. note that if you only do coilovers up front you can't go too stiff since the front and rear springs need to compliment each other. my car rides great though and it's lowered 3" up front.

 

Sub'd. What are the not so obvious benefits of adjustable shocks with coilovers? For someone who is mainly street with an occasional HPDE event would it be worth the extra expense?

 

Also, who makes the best bang for the buck for the street warrior? What determines which kit is better? QA1, MM, UPR, Strange I could go on and on. Aside from opinions, where is there hard performance numbers as to which is better? Spring rates... 14-150, 10-400... what do these mean in real world performance. I get the higher the rate the stiffer they are but how is this relationship dependent on one or the other?

 

So many questions aghhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Best bang for you buck is probably UPR, Strange, or MMR. They all have kits that work with a variety of shocks including stock (don't recommend that though). MM is more pricey but paired with their street or race Bilsteins will probably be an unbeatable kit in terms of quality. If you want a good kit for a street car, I would recommend the strange kit with some strange 10 way adjustable struts for that extra dampening setting. That's what I'm currently running on mine with a 300# spring and it rides quite nice. The struts are set in the middle currently.

[MENTION=10532]MadStang[/MENTION] can enlighten you on why a stiffer spring rate is preffered for events such as road racing and auto-x.

 

Thank you for that. I know I have a million questions and to be honest it will pay off for me some day. I am building this SN from the ground up with every single part I want. I have no time or budget restraints because I am choosing the parts I want and then doing what it takes to get them. That said, I like to know all I can before I pull a trigger. I also cant justify agent 47 crap considering I am not autocrossing and dont think I could ever justify 10k into suspension. I understand the spring rates and dampening characteristics and how they are relative to the event and conditions... my question was more related to the length and rate i.e. 10-400 or 14-200... Hopefully [MENTION=10532]MadStang[/MENTION] can help out with this.

 

Length is just how tall the spring is. A shorter spring will allow for more adjustability and going lower. That's why I settled for 10" springs.

I'm not sure if that's what you were asking though lol

 

Always pair spring rate with the shocks & struts you are using.

Personally the only setup I recommend for a good street / cornering setup is bilstein for the shocks and struts. and the spring rate range you could use is 300-350 up front and 200-250 in the rear, always keeping a 100# difference between front and rear. realistically within that range it's all a matter of personal preference. with a lower spring rate you'll have better ride comfort but the car will also have more body roll versus a higher rate which will give you a rougher ride but less body roll (thus better handling).

Spring Height I would only go for a 10", it'll give you more than enough adjustability from low to almost stock height. that is of course unless you're wanting a drag spring.

 

really 350 isn't too stiff for the street? also why do you only suggest 10" as apposed to 12"?

 

not when it's paired correctly with the right damper. MM Sport Series with 350# will still be smooth just a bit more noticeable on bigger bumps. I currently run 375/275 rates because the track surface I race on is so horrible that any stiffer will upset the car big time. It's way too soft for the Hoosiers I'm running but the car needs it to absorb the rough surface changes.

reason I suggest 10" springs is the 12" are more for stockish ride height, preloading the spring before it's touch the ground messes with the spring rate, so you want something you won't have to worry will cause unpredictable ride quality.

 

ahh okay. MM suggested a 12" spring for me even though I told them it was gonna be pretty low. so far it hasn't worked out but they think the springs are bent.