Convertible top replacement

HiddenCityIronworks · May 20, 2025

Hey All! Getting ready to replace the convertible top on the Stinky Mustang project, as the top that's on it was installed incorrectly and leaks along the sides. there are so many options and prices to choose from each site, CJ Pony, LMS NPD, Ebay and Amazon, does anyone have any suggestions on brand? Go with the glass insert or replace with the vinyl window? Do the replacement tops with the glass window tend to leak and fail? I do hate the plastic rear window, but if it's a better option, I'd do that... Any help would be great!

Bronco2Fan · May 20, 2025

I'm in the same boat as you. Still debating on doing it myself or take it to a shop. 1500 bucks was the last estimate I got, not counting the top or supplies. Mine is the glass one and that's what I'll go with however I decide.

When you get started, post up the process, in detail lol. Lots of questions, very few answers. YouTube only has a few videos, and the best one was in Spanish.

greg94 · May 20, 2025

It looks as if your car has rear window defrost. The only way to keep that is with a glass window with the grid lines. Glass also offers better rear visibility so that would be my vote.

Flade · May 20, 2025

I’ve replaced several. It’s not hard but a bit involved. The Glass window is much nicer than the plastic and can be ordered with the defroster in it. Many of the plastic windows are. New style 1 piece top. It is supposed to be easier to install than the original 2 piece top. Properly installed neither will leak.

I have used Electron tops in the past but they were bought out by EZ-ON. I haven’t tried on of their tops yet. Robbins makes excellent tops for the classic Mustangs, but I haven’t tried one of their SN95 Tops.

There are a few tricks to make it easier, and you need to have a good stapler and stainless steel staples. I bought a DVD with video and instructions that was very helpful.

The most important thing is to measure the correct position of the rear bow. After you take off the trim around the rear of the window. Measure from the center of the rear bow to the top center of the body at the bottom of the window. This sets the Bow position and ensures the top is at the right height and length. If I remember correctly it’s about 25”.

The hardest part is often removing the trim cover from the front header bar. The screws are often rusted to the alloy. They can be quite hard to remove. I’ve had to drill some out, then repair the header with JB weld. Ford switched to much larger better screws in later years. If you order replacements, you’ll get the later style.

HiddenCityIronworks · May 23, 2025

Thanks for the advice all, and for sure I'll add an episode to the playlist on this car. It's crazy how much I've had to repair for fix on this car!

cobrajeff96 · May 23, 2025

Better replace the pads that the cables sit on or you will hear them going down the road and it sounds like a whole village of mice when the pads are fully worn. Might as well replace all the weather strips too.

HiddenCityIronworks · May 23, 2025

cobrajeff96 said:
Better replace the pads that the cables sit on or you will hear them going down the road and it sounds like a whole village of mice when the pads are fully worn. Might as well replace all the weather strips too.

Good advice, are you talking about the full length cables that run through the frame?

cobrajeff96 · May 23, 2025

Yea they run through the top of the top. Not a bad idea to replace cables too, now that I think about it. The resto sites should have them last I checked (CJ, LMR).

Slice · May 24, 2025

If you Google you will find several major suppliers for the top. Turns out a lot of these companies were bought up and now it's one company pretending to be several different companies. No matter, I have bought one in the quality is very good. One of the biggest challenges are the staples. They need to be stainless steel staples but the shortest Staples of one quarter inch are still too long and you will see the shoulders of them sticking up when you have your roof on. The Staples need to be really only 1/8 or 3/16 inch and I was never able to find them. This is for the hoop that is about 2/3 of the way back. You might as well start looking for these Staples now if you can find them. Otherwise I would suggest hammering them down. The springs that hold the top taught near the rear quarter windows are hard to get off. I managed to break one and they are unobtainium.

HiddenCityIronworks · May 26, 2025

Slice said:
If you Google you will find several major suppliers for the top. Turns out a lot of these companies were bought up and now it's one company pretending to be several different companies. No matter, I have bought one in the quality is very good. One of the biggest challenges are the staples. They need to be stainless steel staples but the shortest Staples of one quarter inch are still too long and you will see the shoulders of them sticking up when you have your roof on. The Staples need to be really only 1/8 or 3/16 inch and I was never able to find them. This is for the hoop that is about 2/3 of the way back. You might as well start looking for these Staples now if you can find them. Otherwise I would suggest hammering them down. The springs that hold the top taught near the rear quarter windows are hard to get off. I managed to break one and they are unobtainium.

Are you talking about those spring cables that hook to one of the bolts on the side vents?

Slice · May 28, 2025

Yeah right where the lead Edge of the roof is when it comes down to the body, just after the driver's shoulder, or beside where the passenger in the back would sit. I broke the hook off my spring trying to undo it so I tried to bend a new hook on the end but it's almost impossible it's like they're made out of titanium or something.

HiddenCityIronworks · May 29, 2025

Slice said:
Yeah right where the lead Edge of the roof is when it comes down to the body, just after the driver's shoulder, or beside where the passenger in the back would sit. I broke the hook off my spring trying to undo it so I tried to bend a new hook on the end but it's almost impossible it's like they're made out of titanium or something.

I founds new ones on LMR, they look to be of good quality.

redline8300 · Jun 2, 2025

I've just about got mine torn down and keep finding things that haven't weather near as well as I might have hoped. The tack strips that the front of the top staples to cracked and needs to be replaced. That part is done but trying to find replacement rivets to attach the new sections. I'll probably end up going with standard pop rivets. There is a really good video on youtube "Old School Auto Upholstery Techniques" to follow along with. Some of his edits don't flow but all in all not too bad.

My top came from Robbins, tack strips from Midwest fabrics, and contact cement, spray gun, and other misc. from Your Auto Trim.