Coyote fuel system and wire work

Discussion in '96-04 - 4V Specific' started by solis, Nov 27, 2018.

  1. solis

    solis New Member

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    Well over this black Friday and cyber Monday i decided to just bite the bullet and buy the stuff to do a coyote swap. I got some pretty good deals and i also discovered the Car-parts website. i always search on ebay for coyotes and good deals, but car-parts has better deals that further encouraged the purchases.

    Well my only questions are-

    Can you recommend a good Shop in the Dallas/forth area to do wiring/tune work? i live in Abilene TX so if its closer it even better, i want my gauges to work and will be using either a T45 or TR3650.

    Can i reuse my stock fuel lines? what AN adapters do i need if i can?
    i already have a AE340lph in my tank and a Tanks ink fuel press regulator.

    is there any shorty swap headers in the market? or can i reuse the coyotes? whats the best option.

    Most of the work is being done by me, my car already has the full MM catalog so everything is easier.
     
  2. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Check into lwarriors build thread. He is in the midst of a swap now. Although he has completely revamped the car with wiring for the engine management system, most of what he has done will shed light onto what your wanting.

    Personally, you cant go wrong with the set up and im speaking from extreme drag racing abuse experience. Im not the drag racer nor do i have a coyote, but i am part of a team on the nmra coyote stock class.
     
  3. solis

    solis New Member

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    i Looked at that tread and other treads already and got all my answers, the search function on this forum sucks tho. I'm not touching the wiring at all, that why i'm looking for a shop to do it, i also need a tune and my torque arm welded.

    Just so people can Know about the fuel system, you can use the stock fuel lines and they will support at least 500hp, the only issue is the 1/4 inch return line as they don't sell quick disconnect fittings for that size. the solution are AN compression fittings, they sell all sizes from 1/4 inch to 3/8 line. I do wish they had more choices for swap headers, i like shorty's because of how compact they are and i can drop engines from the top.
     
  4. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    you can say the hard lines are the bottle neck but don't forget the hard lines at the tank. Your choice there is to get a sumped tank or pro-m makes a fuel hanger that has -an fittings on it to go in the stock tank. If your interested in the hanger I am your dude as I got one and then decided to go with an external fuel pump so I can sell you one new in the box.
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Russell makes fittings to go on our hard lines and convert it to -6. It’s a screw together type fitting. Problem is that if you use the same kind of bolt together fitting for the feed line, you have to modify the nut a little bit (I’ve got pictures in my build thread).
     
  6. solis

    solis New Member

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    yeah i seen the pics, i wont be using those type of fitting. I will be using compression line an fittings from Earls good up to 250psi, you cut the lines flush and put on the nut, sleeve and fitting then compress the sleeve onto the line. I wanted to see if there was an easy way to do it, but the only good quick disconnect i found that doesn't have leaking problems was for a 3/8 line.

    now i just gotta figure out what type of hose to use. At work (USAF Hydraulics) we built MS braided hoses, they are nice but stiff, maybe i will try nilon AN hose.
     
  7. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    That’s awesome, I also do aircraft hydraulics, but I’m Army.
     
  8. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    The fuel rail kit I got came with steel braided hose. It looked nice but as you said its a lot stiffer then the non-steel hoses. I had my AFPR on the side and the hoses came off of it to the back of the rails to a 90 degree an fitting. I kept the hoses as short as possible and because of this they were nearly straight between the rails/fpr. I started the car up and 110-15 secs into it I heard a "pop" and looked up to see a 90 fitting on the back of the rail had just barely popped off and was now spraying the firewall. Took a little while to figure out that I needed a bend in the hoses or else after they were pressurized when the motor shook it would not have any give to it and pop the 90 off.

    Again if your not running new hose from the tank then going to a 3/8 or -6 at the end will not really matter.
     
  9. solis

    solis New Member

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    it wont but i want the more secure connection instead of just a clamp and hose. then again AN hose is cheap so i might just do the whole thing. What do you recommend? -6 return and -8 pressure feed? or keep it all -6? what about filters?

    where does bottle neck start? i want to keep my pump submerged.
     
  10. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    with the HP the coyote pushes I don't think it would take long to max out the hard lines. Those will be your bottle neck no matter what but it starts all the way back at the tank/hanger. I can't suggest what is best since I don't know your plans I think the pro-m hanger I have for sale is -08, -06 IIRC which should be plenty for future plans. That is what I ran. The hose is not all that expensive but by the time you get filters included and fittings for everything it adds up pretty quick and becomes a pretty good project both in time and $$$ from the tank to the rails..
     
  11. solis

    solis New Member

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    oh i see my only goal is 500hp, i want this car to be balanced, the car is mild time attack build.